GUIDEBOOK TO CONSTRUCTING
INEXPENSIVE SCIENCE TEACHING EQUIPMENT
Volume I : Biology
Inexpensive Science Teaching Equipment Project
Science Teaching Center
University of Maryland, College Park
U.S.A.
(c) Copyright. The contents of this Guidebook are open to the public domain except
for those items which have been taken directly (as opposed to adapted) from other
sources, and which are identified within the text by the symbol (c) Permission to
reproduce copyright items should be obtained directly from the relevant authors.
June, 1972
Inexpensive Science Teaching Equipment Project
Science Teaching Center
University of Maryland
Project Director and Administrator
J, David Lockard
Survey Team
Mary Harbeck
Maria Penny
1968-72
1968-70
1968-70
Guidebook Director
Reginald F. Melton
Writing, Drawing and Equipment Development Team
Reginald Melton
John Delaini
Donald Urbancic
Ruth Ann Butler
Technical Assistants
David Clark
Chada Samba Siva Rao
1970-72
1970-72
1970-72
1970-71
1971-72
1970-72
1970-71
CONTENTS
The Guidebook is presented in three volumes:
Volume I, Biology
Volume II, Chemistry
Volume III, Physics
The following table refers only to the contents of this
volume, but the listing at the back of each volume provides an
alphabetical index to all three volumes.
References within the text normally indicate the volume,
chapter and number of the item referred to (e.g., PHYS/V/A3) ,
but where a reference is to an item within the same volume,
the reference indicates only the chapter and number of the
item (e.g. , V/A3) .
■11-
Table of Contents
Foreword
Raw Materials and Tools
I, MAGNIFIERS AND MICROSCOPES
A. MAGNIFIERS
Al . Water Filled Magnifier
A2. Water Bulb Magnifying Glass
A3. Illuminated Hand Magnifier
B. MICROSCOPES
Bl. Glass Stage Microscope
B2 . Hand-Held Microscope
B3. Match Box Microscope
B4. Adjustable Microscope
C. SUPPLEMENTARY APPARATUS
CI. Glass Slide and Cover Slip
C2 . Staining Vessel
C3. Stain Bottle
C4 . Hand Microtome
II. DISSECTING APPARATUS
A. DISSECTING APPARATUS
Al
Dissecting Needles
A2
Strapping Scalpel
A3
Razor Scalpel
A4
Scissors
A5
Forceps
A6
Dropper
A7
Dissecting Pan
III. AQUAT
IC COLLECTING APPARATUS
A. NETS AND DREDGES
Al. Dip Net
A2. Hand Screen
A3. Dredge
A4. Plankton Net
A5. Two-Man Seine
A6. Lift Net
B. AQUATIC TRAPS
Bl. Piling Trap
B2. Funnel Trap
Page
vi
ix
1
2
3
7
14
19
21
24
30
31
33
35
38
39
41
43
45
48
49
51
53
54
56
60
65
68
71
73
76
-m-
C. SUPPLEMENTARY AQUATIC MATERIALS
CI. Bottom Sampler 82
C2 . Grappling Hook 85
C3. Grappling Bar 87
C4. Water Glass 90
IV. TERRESTRIAL COLLECTING APPARATUS 93
A. INSECT COLLECTING APPARATUS
Al. Butterfly Net 94
A2 . Killing Jars 96
A3. Relaxing Jar 98
A4 . Insect Spreading Board 99
A5 . Beating Sheet 101
A6. Aspirator 103
A7 . Night Flying Insect Collector 105
B. SOIL ORGANISM COLLECTING APPARATUS
Bl. Soil Organism Sieve 110
B2 . Soil Insect Trap 112
B3. Baermann Funnel 114
B4. Berlese Funnel 117
C. SMALL VERTEBRATE COLLECTING APPARATUS
CI. Simple Box Trap 119
C2. Potter Bird Trap 126
C3. Snare 130
C4. Reptile Hook 132
D. PLANT COLLECTING APPARATUS
Dl. Vasculum 136
D3(l). Plant Press (Field Type) 140
D2(2). Plant Press (Laboratory Type) 142
AQUARIA AND TERRARIA 144
A. CLASSROOM DEMONSTRATION AQUARIA
Al . Quickly Made Demonstration Aquarium 145
A2 . Jug or Carboy Aquarium 146
B. BREEDING AQUARIUM
Bl. Breeding Aquarium 147
C. TEMPORARY AQUARIUM
CI. Plastic Bag Aquarium 148
D. TERRARIA
Dl . Simple Terrarium 151
D2 . Glass Terrarium 153
D3. Plant Growth Chamber 155
VI. CAGES 158
A. GLASS CAGES
ai. Glass Jar Cage 159
A2 . Jar Cage Shelf 161
A3. Cockroach Cage 163
A4 . Housefly Cage 165
A5 . Cylinder Cage 167
A6 . Jar Wotmery 168
A7 . Jar Cage 169
A8 . Box Wormery 171
A9 . Ant Observation Cage 173
A10. Glass Cage 176
B. WOODEN CAGES
Bl. Wooden Frame Cage 180
B2 . Wire Cage 185
C. TEMPERATURE CONTROLLED CAGES
CI. Vivarium 191
C2. Egg Incubator 200
C3. Thermostat 207
VII. MICROBIAL GROWTH APPARATUS 213
A. BASIC APPARATUS
Al. Culture Flask 214
A2. Sterilizer 215
A3. Inoculating Needles 218
A4 . Microorganism Incubator 219
A5. Transfer Pipette 224
A6 . Transfer Chamber 226
VIII. PHYSIOLOGY MATERIALS 233
KYMOGRAPH
Al. Kymograph 234
VOLUMETER
Bl . Volumeter 244
FERMENTATION TUBES
CI. Balloon Fermentation Tube 247
C2. Durham Fermentation Tube 248
C3. Syringe Fermentation Tube 249
D . MANOMETER
Dl . Manometer 251
E. CHROMATOGRAPHY APPARATUS
El. Chromatographic Device 255
IX. MULTIPURPOSE SYRINGES 257
A. INJECTION AND EXTRACTION SYSTEMS
Al. Diffusion Chamber 25a
A2 . Anesthetizing Chamber 261
A3. Enzymatic Reaction Chamber 263
B. COLLECTION APPARATUS
Bl. Plant Gas Collection Device 265
B2 . Seedling Gas Collection Device 267
C. REACTION CHAMBER
CI. Carbon Dioxide Production Chamber 269
D. RESPIROMETERS
Dl(l). Respirometer 270
Dl(2). Respirometer 273
Bibliography 277
Alphabetical Index 279
FOREWORD
History
The Inexpensive Science Teaching Equipment Project was initiated by Dr. J. David
Lockard, and got underway under his direction in the summer of 1968. Originally entitled
the Study of Inexpensive Science Teaching Equipment Worldwide (IS-TEW or IS-Z Study),
the Project was to (1) identify laboratory equipment considered essential for student
investigations in introductory biology, chemistry and physics courses in developing
countries; (2) improvise, wherever possible, equivalent inexpensive science teaching
equipment; and (3) produce designs of this equipment in a Guidebook for use in develop-
ing countries. Financial support was provided by the U.S. Agency for International
Development through the National Science Foundation.
The initial work of the Project was undertaken by Maria Penny and Mary Harbeck
under the guidance of Dr. Lockard. Their major concern was the identification of
equipment considered basic to the teaching of the sciences at an introductory level.
An international survey was conducted, and a list of equipment to be made was compiled.
A start was also made on the writing of guidelines (theoretical designs) for the
construction of equipment.
Work on the development of the Guidebook itself got underway in 1970, with the
arrival of Reginald F. Melton to coordinate the work. Over 200 guidelines were completed
during the year by Donald Urbancic (Biology) , Chada Samba Siva Rao and John Delaini
(Chemistry), and Reginald Melton (Physics) . Full use was made of project materials from
around the world which were available in the files of the International Clearinghouse on
Science and Mathematics Curricular Developments, which is located in the Science
Teaching Center of the University of Maryland. The guidelines were compiled into a
draft edition of the Guidebook which was circulated in September, 1971, to some 80
science educators around the world for their comments and advice.
The work of constructing and developing equipment from the guidelines, with the
subsequent production of detailed designs, began in a limited way in 1970, the major
input at that time being in the field of chemistry by Chada Samba Siva Rao, who was
with the project for an intensive two-month period. However, the main work of developing
detailed designs from the guidelines was undertaken between 1971 and 1972 by John Delaini
(Biology), Ruth Ann Butler (Chemistry) and Reginald Melton (Physics) . Technical
assistance was given by student helpers,with a special contribution from David Clark,
who was with the project for a period of 18 months.
Thanks are due to those graduates, particularly Samuel Genova, Melvin Soboleski
and Irven Spear, who undertook the development of specific items of equipment while
studying at the Center on an Academic Year Institute program; to student helpers,
especially Don Kallgren, Frank Cathell and Theodore Mannekin, who constructed the
equipment; and to Dolores Aluise and Gail Kuehnle who typed the manuscripts.
Last, but not least, special acknowledgement is due to those individuals, and
organizations, around the world who responded so willingly to the questionnaires in
1968 and to the draft edition of the Guidebook in 1971.
The Guidebook
The designs presented in the Guidebook are based on the premise that many students
and teachers in developing countries will wish to make equipment for themselves . This
does not mean that students and teachers are expected to produce all their own apparatus
requirements. It is recognized that teachers have specific curricula to follow, and that
"class hours" available for such work are very limited. It is also recognized that
teachers, particularly those in developing countries, are not well paid, and often
augment their salaries with supporting jobs, thus placing severe limits on the "out-of-
class hours' that are available for apparatus production.
However, in designing equipment for production by students and teachers, two factors
have been kept in mind. One, project work in apparatus development can be extremely
rewarding for students, bringing both students and teachers into close contact with the
realities of science, and relating science and technology in the simplest of ways. Two,
it is not difficult for cottage (or small scale) industries to adapt these designs to
their own requirements. The Guidebook should therefore not only be of value to students
and teachers, but also to cottage industries which may well be the major producers of
equipment for schools.
Although all the designs in the Guidebook have been tested under laboratory
conditions in the University of Maryland, they have not been tested in school situ-
ations nor produced and tested under local conditions in developing countries. It is
therefore recommended that the designs should be treated primarily as limited resource
materials to be subjected to trial and feedback. It is suggested that the first time
that an item is constructed it should be made precisely as described in the Guidebook,
since variations in the materials, or the dimensions of the materials, could alter the
characteristics of the apparatus. However, once this item has been tested the producer
is encouraged to make any number of modifications in the design, evaluating the new
products against the original.
Before producing new equipment in quantity, it is recommended that educators
with experience in the field of science education should be involved in determining
how best to make use of the Guidebook. They will wish to relate the apparatus to their
own curriculum requirements, and, where necessary, prepare relevant descriptions of
experiments which they recommend should be undertaken using the selected apparatus.
They will want to subject the experiments and related equipment to trials in school
situations. Only then will they consider large-scale production of apparatus from the
designs in the Guidebook. At this stage educators will wish to control the quality of
apparatus production, to train teachers to make the best use of the new apparatus, and
to insure that adequate laboratory conditions are developed to permit full utilization
of the apparatus. Too often in the past apparatus has sat unused on many a classroom
shelf, simply because the teacher has been untrained in its usage, or the laboratory
facilities have been inadequate, or because the apparatus available did not appear to
fit the requirements of the existing curriculum. Such factors are best controlled by
educators in the field of science education in each country. Clearly the science
educator has a crucial role to play.
Apparatus development, like any aspect of curriculum development, should be
considered as a never ending process. This Guidebook is not presented as a finished
product, but as a part of this continuing process. There is no doubt that the designs
in this book could usefully be extended, descriptions of experiments utilizing the
apparatus could be added, and the designs themselves could be improved. No extravagant
claims are made concerning the Guidebook. It is simply hoped that it will contribute
to the continuing process of development.
TOOLS AND RAW MATERIALS
The raw materials required to make specific items of equipment are indicated at
the beqinninq of each item description. However, there are certain tools and materials
which are useful in any equipment construction workshop, and these are listed below.
Tools
Chisels, Wood
3, 6, 12, 24 mm
(i.e., 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 1")
Cutters
Bench Shears: 3 mm (1/8") capacity
Glass Cutter
Knife
Razor Blades
Scissors: 200 mm (8")
Snips (Tinmans) , Straiqht: 200 n (8")
Snips (Tinmans) , Curved: 200 mm (8")
Taps and Dies: 3 to 12 mm (1/8" to 1/2") set
Drills and Borers
Cork Borer Set
Countersink, 90
Metal Drill Holder (Electrically Driven) , Capacity 6 mm (1/4")
Metal Drills: 0.5, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 mm
( i 1/32" 1/16" 3/32JL J/8." 5/32", 3.16", 7/32", 1/4") set
Wood Brace with Ratchet: 250 nm (10")
Wood Auqer, Bits: 6, 12, 18, 24 nun
(i.e., 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1")
Files, Double Cut
Flat: 100 mm, 200 mm (4", 8")
Round: 100 ran, 200 n (4", 8")
Trianqular: 100 mm (4")
Hammers
Ball Pein: 125, 250, (1/4, 1/2 lb)
Claw 250 q (1/2 lb)
Measurinq Aids
Caliper, Inside
Caliper, Outside
Caliper, Vernier (may replace above two items)
Dividers: 150 mm (6"), Toolmakers
Meter, Electrical (Multipurpose - volts, ohms, amps, etc.)
Meter Stick
Protractor
Scriber
Measuring Aids (Continued)
Set Square
Square, Carpenter's: 300 mm (12") blade
Spoke Shave: 18 mm (3/4")
Wood Smoothing Plane
Pliers
Combination: 150 mm (6")
Needle Nose: 150 mm (6")
Side Cutting: 150 mm (6")
Vise Grips
Saws, Metal
300 mm (12") blades
Saws, Wood
Back Saw: 200, 300 mm (8", 12")
Coping Saw: 200 mm (8")
Cross Cut: 600 mm (24")
Hand Rip: 60 mm (24")
Key Hole Saw: 200 mm (8")
Screw Drivers
100 mm (4"), with 2 and 3 u tips
150 mm (6") , with 5 mm tip
200 mm (8"), with 7 mm tip
Vise
Metal Bench Vise: 75 mm (3")
Wood Bench Vise: 150 mm (6")
Miscellaneous
Asbestos Pads
Goggles, Glass
Oil Can: 1/2 liter (1 pint)
Oil Stone, Double Faced
Punch, Center
Sandpaper and Carborundum Paper, Assorted grades
Soldering Iron: 60 watts, 100 watts
Raw Materials
Adhesives
All Purpose Cement (Elmers, Duco)
Epoxy Resin & Hardener (Araldite)
Rubber Cement (Rugy)
Wood Glue (Weldwood)
Cellophane Tape
Plastic Tape
Masking Tape
Electrical Materials
Bulbs with Holders: 1.2, 2.5, 6.2 volts
Dry Cells: 1.5, 6 volts
Electrical Wire: Cotton or Plastic covered
Fuse Wire: Assorted
Lamps: 50, 75, 100 watts
*Magnet Wire: #20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34
Nichrome Wire : Assorted
Parallel Electrical Cording
Plugs
Switches
Glass and Plastic
Acrylic (Plastic) Sheets: 2 cm and 2.5 cm thick
Plates, Glass
Tubes, Glass: 3, 6 mm (1/8", 1/4") internal diameter
Hardware
Bolts and Nuts, Brass or Steel; 3 mm (1/8") diameter: 12, 24, 48 mm
(1/2", 1", 2") lengths
Nails: 12, 24mm (1/2", 1") lengths
Screws, Eye
Screws, Wood: 12, 18, 24, 26 mm (1/2", 3/4", 1", 1 1/2") lengths
Thumbtacks
Washers (Brass and Steel) : 6, 9 m (1/4", 5.16") diameter
Wingnuts (Steel) : 5 mm (3/16")
Lumber
Boxwood (Packing Case Material)
Hardboard: 6 mm (1/4") thick
Kiln Dried Wood: 2.5 x 15 cm (1" x 6") cross section
1.2 x 15 cm (1/2" x 6") cross section
Plywood: 6, 12 mm (1/4", 1/2") thickness
Wood Dowels: 6, 12 mm (1/4", 1/2") thickness
* U.S. Standard Plate numbers are used in this book to indicate the gauge of
different wires. Where wires are referenced against other numbering systems
appropriate corrections should be make in determining the gauges of materials required.
The following comparison of gauges may be of interest:
Standard
Diameter of #20 Wire
Brown & Sharp
Birmingham or Stubs
Washburn & Moen
Imperial or British Standard
Stubs' Steel
U. S. Standard Plate
08118
089
0884
0914
409
09525
Metal Sheets
Aluminum: 0.2, 0.4mm (1/100", 1/64") thickness .
Brass: 0.4, 0.8mm (1/64", 1/32") thickness .
Galvanized Iron : 0.4 mm ( 1/64" J thickness .
Lead: . 1 mm (1/250") thickness.
Spring Steel, Packing Case Bands
Metal Tubes:
Aluminum, Brass Copper: 6, 12 mm (1/4", 1/2") internal diameter .
Metal Wires
Aluminum: 3 mm (1/8") diameter
Coathanger: 2 mm(l/16") diameter
*Copper: #2 24
Galvanized Iron: 2 mm (1/16") diameter
*Steel: #20, 26, 30.
Paint Materials
Paint Brushes
Paint Thinner
Varnish
Wood Filler
Miscellaneous
Aluminum Foil
Cardboard Sheeting
Containers (Plastic or Glass)
Corks (Rubber or Cork)
Grease
Hinges: Assorted
Machine Oil
Marbles
Mesh (Cotton, Nylon, Wire)
Modelling Clay (Plasticene)
Paper Clips
Pens: Felt (Marking Pens)
Pins and Needles
Rubber Bands
Soldering Lead
Soldering Paste
Spools
Steel Wool
Straws
String (Cord, Cotton, Nylon)
Styrofoam
Syringes: Assorted
Wax (Paraffin)
*See footnote on previous page.
I. MAGNIFIERS AND MICROSCOPES
A. MAGNIFIERS
Magnifiers are used for low power magnification. The three included here can
be employed wherever it is desirable to see a little more detail than is obtain-
able with the naked eye.
B. MICROSCOPES
Where high power magnification is needed, microscopes can be used. The ones
in this section can, for the most part, be adapted to use water drop, glass bead,
or penlight bulb lenses. Magnifications up to around 60X - 80X may be gotten
using these microscopes . All are designed for use with freshly and/or permanently
mounted glass slides.
C. SUPPLEMENTARY APPARATUS
These items are essential for preparing the slides to be viewed with the
microscopes .
A. MAGNIFIERS
Al. Water Filled Magnifier
(1) Flask
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Flask
b. Construction
(1) Flask
Qu I tems Required
1 Spherical Body
Flask (A)
Dimensions
50-500 ml
Simply fill the flask (A)
with clear water up to the
neck.
c. Notes
(i) A 250 ml flask (about 7.5 cm in diameter) will magnify approximately
the same as a double convex magnifying glass 4 cm in diameter and 0.7 cm in
thickness .
(ii) Smaller diameter flasks appear to magnify more than larger diameter ones.
A2 . Water Bulb Magnifying Glass
(1) Water Bulb Magnifying Glass
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Water Bulb
Magnifying Glass
b. Construction
Qu Items Required
1 Glass Tubing (A)
(1) Water Bulb
Magnifying Glass
Cd
O
Dimensions
. 3 cm diameter,
10-13 cm long
Use a Bunsen Burner or gas
burner and fuel system
(CHEM/II/C1 and 2) as a heat
source. Follow the glass-
blowing instructions (CHEM/I/D6)
and blow at one end of the
glass tube (A) a bulb of
about 0.8 cm diameter.
Provide a glass or cup of
water and a wooden clothespin,
pinch clamp (CHEM/IV/A4) or a
few square centimeters of
cloth to serve as a holder.
Rotate the bulb near, but not
in, the flame to expand the
air in the bulb.
^Adapted from James E. Hammesfahr and Claire L. Strong, Creative Glassblowing,
(San Francisco: W. H. Freeman and Company, 1964), pp 108-9.
Water
After a few seconds of
heating, quickly invert the
piece and put the open end
into the water. Allow the
piece to remain in the water
a few seconds. The air in the
bulb contracts and water is
drawn up into the tube.
Remove the piece from the
water and hold it, bulb down,
in one hand near the open end
of the tube. Lightly flick
the bulb with the index finger
of the other hand. Continue
flicking until the water has
gone from the tube into the
bulb.
Next, grasp the tube with the
clothespin, pinch clamp, or
folded cloth, and again hold
the bulb close to the flame
until the water boils. Point
the open end of the tube away
from yourself and anyone else.
Water
Heat the bulb while steam
escapes from the tube for about
5 seconds. Then quickly invert
the tip of the tube into the
water. Allow the tube to
remain in the water until the
bulb is full, or nearly full,
of water. If after a few
minutes, the bulb has not
filled with water, repeat the
heating and filling process.
-Air Bubble
Remove the piece from the
water and invert it so that
any air remaining in the
bulb can enter the tube.
Flick the bulb, as before, and
the bubble will rise to the
open end of the tube.
Holding the bulb with the
tube upright, heat the end of
the tube in the hottest part
of the flame to seal the tip.
As the tip seals, the expanding
air of the trapped bubble
blows a tiny bulb at the end
of the tube.
Water
c .Notes
(i) The first heatiing of the bulb expands the air, which, when it contracts,
draws a small amount of water into the bulb. Converting this water into
steam expels all the air and causes the bulb to fill completely with water as
the steam condenses .
(ii) When this water-filled bulb is held about 0.5 cm from an object, the
object will appear distorted around the edges, but clear and greatly enlarged
at the center of the bulb.
A3. Illuminated Hand Magnifier
a. Materials Required
Component s
(1) Eyepiece
Qu
:
:
:
2) Adaptor
(1) Eyepiece
3) Barrel
Items Required
Double Convex Lens (A)
Single Convex Lens (B)
Cardboard Tube (C)
1 Cardboard Tube (D)
Dimensions
2.5 cm diameter
2 . 5 cm diameter
5 cm long, 2 . 5 cm
inside diameter
5 cm long, 2 . 8 cm
inside diameter
(2) Adaptor
1 Cardboard Tube (E)
5 cm long, 3 . 5 cm
inside diameter
(3) Barrel
1 1.5 Volt Penlight
Bulb (F)
1 Tin Sheet (G)
2 Electrical Wire (H)
2 . 2 cm long, 1 .
cm diameter
3.7 diameter, 0.05
cm thick
10 cm long, #26 gauge
(about 0.05 cm in
diameter); strip
insulation from 1 cm
of each end
2 1.5 Volt Dry Cells (I)
1 Steel Bolt (J)
1 Steel Nut (K)
1 Steel Strapping (L)
1 Cardboard (M)
1 Cardboard Tube (N)
3.2 cm diameter
5 . 7 cm long
2 cm long, . 5 cm
diameter
. 5 cm inside
diameter
12.5 cm x 1.2 cm x
0.05 cm
3 . 5 diameter
15 cm long, 3.2 cm
inside diameter
b. Construction
(1) Eyepiece
-( 3.75 *•
♦I. 5*
1.5
Jl
1
2.5
I
'
<_ —
9.0
H
Tube (D)
Cross Section of
Tube (D)
If a cardboard tube cannot be
found of the required size,
one can easily be made from
a piece of cardboard cut as
shown. Roll the cardboard into
a tube (D) 5 cm long and
position the single convex
lens (B) in place with the
edge on the dotted line. The
lens can be held in place with
rubber cement or similar
flexible adhesive while the
tube (D) is held together with
masking tape. Be certain the
flat side of the lens faces
the front (notched) end of
the tube.
Tube (C)
Cross Section of
Tube (C)
(D)
(C)
^ ^^ -u-n r rrr- , -CT rl
The second tube (C) may be
made the same way as the
first if a manufactured
cardboard tube of the correct
size cannot be found. Roll
the cardboard into a tube and
position the double convex
lens (A) at one end with
rubber cement . Fasten the
tube securely with masking
tape. This tube (C) should
fit rather snugly inside
tube (D) , but still be able
to slide easily back and forth.
Cross Section
(2) Adaptor
T
3
1_
12
JL
The adaptor can be made from
a cardboard tube (E) by
notching one end so that it
will interlock with the eye-
piece. The adaptor and eye-
piece can then be taped with
masking tape. Alternatively,
Adaptor Pattern
-10-
Notch
Eyepiece
Adaptor (E)
the pattern for the adaptor
can be cut from cardboard,
rolled into a cylinder, and
taped. Even if the two tubes
don't "mesh" exactly, they
can be taped well enough to
overcome inaccuracies .
When binding the eyepiece and
adaptor together with tape,
be sure that the notch in the
eyepiece tube (D) is directly
over the adaptor tube
opening.
(3) Barrel
If a tube (N) of the correct
size is available, simply
punch a small hole (0.2 cm)
about 6 cm from one end of
the tube. Otherwise, a tube
can be fashioned from a piece
of cardboard of the indicated
dimensions. Roll and tape
it so that it is 15 cm long
and has a 3.2 cm inside
diameter.
Tube (N)
-11-
Bolt (J)
Nut (K)
Cardboard (M)
Side View
Wire (H)
Cardboard (M)
To seal off the end of tube
(N) use the circular piece
of cardboard (M) . First,
punch a hole in the center of
the cardboard disc, and insert
the short steel bolt (J) .
Fasten one of the pieces of
electrical wire (H) in place
with the nut (K). Pull the
free end of the wire through
the hole in the tube (N) and
glue the disc (M) in place
to seal off one end of the
tube .
' » * ' ' ' ' ' ' '
Cross Section of
Tube (N)
0.7 cm Hole
Before Folding
Slits
<^P
After Folding
Use the disc of tin sheeting
(G) to make a reflector.
First, drill a hole in the
center of the disc of a
diameter such that the pen-
light bulb (F) will screw into
it securely (approximately
0.7 cm diameter) . Next, cut
slits in the disc (G) as
shown. Fold the resulting
flaps up slightly so that
Reflector (G)
-12-
Penlight Bulb (F)
Reflector (G)
the reflector approximates
a cone in appearance.
Next, screw the bulb (F) in
place, and solder one end of
the second piece of wire (H)
to the back of the reflector.
Pull the free end of the wire
through the hole in the
barrel tube (N) and leave the
reflector assembly loose
temporarily .
Cross Section
Switch (L)
The switch is made from the
piece of steel strapping (L)
Give it a slight bend in
the middle.
Coiled Ends
Coil
Switch (L
Coil the free end of the wire
which comes from the sealed
end of the barrel. Do like-
wise for the other wire..
Tape the switch to the barrel
making certain that one end
of the switch is taped
directly over one of the wire
coils and that the second
coil is directly under the
bent portion of the switch
but not touching it. In
To Be Taped
Tape
Side Views
-13-
Cross Section of Completed
Barrel
other words, when the switch
is depressed, contact will
be made with the wire coil
and the circuit from the bolt
to the bulb will be completed.
Finally, insert two dry cells
(I) into the barrel and push
the reflector assembly into
place.
The bulb must make contact
with the battery. The
reflector assembly should
hold in place by tension, and
require no further fastening.
When the switch is pressed,
the light should go on.
c. Notes
To complete the illuminated
hand magnifier, insert the
barrel into the adaptor.
(i) The illuminated hand magnifier must be held directly over the object
to be viewed. The light serves to concentrate the illumination of the object
while focusing is accomplished by moving the eyepiece tube (C) up and down
in relation to the second tube (D) .
(ii) This magnifier is excellent for observing detail on such items as
insect parts, plant surface features, crystals, etc.
(iii) Obviously, any variation in the lens diameter as given here will
necessitate changes in the dimensions of the item. If a lens is slightly
smaller than the cylinder into which it must be fit, it can be built up by
wrapping thin pieces of tape around its edge until it will fit snugly.
-14-
MICROSCOPES
Bl. Glass Stage Microscope
(1) Glass Plate
(2) Lens Mount
(3) Mirror
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Glass Plate
(2) Lens Mount
(3) Mirror
q u Items Required
1 Window Glass (A)
1 Metal Strip (B)
1 Mirror Glass (C)
Dimensions
20 cm x 10 cm (at
least)
12 cm x 3 cm x 0.1 cm
Approximately 5 cm
x 5 cm
b. Construction
(1) Glass Plate
Rest the qlass plate (A) on
two books or other stable
supports. The glass plate
serves as the microscope
stage.
-15-
(2) Lens Mount
•4.5-— r- 3 -^H— 4.5
Metal Strip
Drill a hole through the
center of the lens mount (B)
The diameter of the hole
will depend on the size and
type of lens used [see Notes
(ii) , (iii) , (iv) ] . Bend
the end of the lens mount
down at a slight angle.
(3) Mirror
c. Notes
Use the mirror (C) to reflect
enough light through the
specimen to permit it to be
seen well. If a mirror is
not available, use polished
metal or other reflective
material .
(i) Operating the glass stage microscope is exceptionally easy. Simply
place the glass slide containing the specimen under the lens mount and reflect
light through the specimen with the mirror. Focusing is accomplished by push-
ing on the lens mount so that the lens moves closer to or further from the
specimen .
(ii) For maximum success in making water drop lenses, the hole in the lens
mount must be properly prepared. First of all, this means that the hole should
be as nearly circular as possible. A drill will yield best results although
holes can be punched with nails, punches, or other sharp implements. Addi-
tionally, the edge of the hole should be made smooth and free from burrs.
This can be done with a file or tool made especially for this purpose. The
optimum size for the hole was found to be approximately 2.5 mm - 3.5 mm in
diameter.
Once the hole has been made, the area around the hole should be heated
and candle wax melted onto both sides of the lens mount around the hole. Be
certain that no wax gets into the hole. This coating of wax prevents the
-16-
water drop from spreading out and deforming.
When the hole has been prepared, the water drop lens is made simply by
carefully placing a drop of water in the middle of the hole so that it is
suspended from the edge. The drop is most easily handled with a dropper.
It was found that a water drop with a slightly flattened side provided the
best image while a drop flattened on both sides was poor.
Excellent
ZZl
xjt
Good
Poor
(iii) The object in making a glass bead lens is to form as nearly spherical
and clear a bead as possible. This is most easily done if soft glass rods
are available. If harder glass is used, extremely hot flames are needed to
work it .
First, evenly heat a portion of the glass rod in a flame until it
softens. When it is soft, pull the ends out until a long filament is formed
and continue to pull until the filament breaks. Using the longer of the two
filaments, heat the tip until a bead begins to form. Turning the filament
so that the bead forms evenly, continue to heat the bead until it reaches
the desired size. Allow the bead to cool and then break it off along with
a portion of the stem.
Heating the
Rod
Drawing Out
the Filament
Beginning
the Bead
Completing
the Bead
c=0
Bead
with Stem
Beads can be made from approximately 2 . mm to 5 . mm in diameter,
although those from 2.5 mm - 4.0 mm work best. Before mounting the bead on
the lens mount, be certain that the hole in the mount is slightly s maller i n
-17-
diameter than the bead. This is extremely important. The bead can then be
glued or held in place by a rubber band (see diagram) .
Glue
Side Views
e^Sfr
K
Rubber
Band
As the diagrams show, the bead stem should be kept on the underside
of the lens mount.
Although glass beads can be made from glass tubing, it is almost
impossible to prevent air bubbles from forming in the bead which cause great
distortion of the image. Therefore, use solid glass rods, if possible.
(iv) Penliqht bulb lenses are made from the penlight bulbs used in small,
fountain-pen sized flashlights (battery operated torches) . Those commercially
available in the United States are approximately 2 cm long and 11cm in
diameter at the widest point. The portion used as a microscope lens is the
thickened glass at the tip of the bulb (see diagram) .
Remove Here
The lens can be removed from the bulb by scratching the glass portion
of the bulb close to the metal part. This avoids scratching the tip of the
bulb itself, and is best accomplished with a small, triangular file. Once
the whole glass bulb has been separated from the metal part, the lens will
break off quite readily; in fact, it may fly off and be damaged unless caution
is observed.
The lens may be mounted to the lens mount merely by drilling a hole
the same diameter (or slightly smaller) as the lens. Then, apply a flexible
glue (e.g., rubber cement) around the edge of the hole and set the lens In
place (see diagram) . Allow the glue to set before using the microscope.
Lens Mount
/ Glue
Q-///////-77 ; — 222ZZ ZZZ2 ZZ
Cross Section
The penlight bulb lens appears to work best when mounted rounded side
up as shown in the diagram.
(v) Because all the microscopes described here are single lens types
with small diameter lenses, the focal length is extremely small, which means
that the lens must be close to the object viewed and also, the eye must be
kept very close to the lens. This tends to cause a strain on the eye if the
microscope is to be used for an extended period of time. In addition, it
means that the depth of field is extremely limited, requiring frequent
adjustments to focus.
(vi) Magnification power for the different lenses is difficult to determine,
but it appears that water drops and glass beads of the same diameter have
the same power of magnification. Drops or beads with diameters of 2.0 mm to
4.0 mm give magnifications of approximately 40X- 60X to 20X - 30X with
smaller diameter beads yielding larger magnifications. The penlight bulb
lens is approximately 5 mm in diameter and 3 mm thick, and gives magnification
of about 50X - 70X. With all lenses, the portion of the field in focus is
rather small.
(vii) Care should be taken to keep the lenses (except water drop) clean
with tissues. Also, slides, mirrors, etc., should be kept as dust free as
possible.
(viii) The best material for the lens holder seems to be aluminum sheeting
about . 5 mm thick. Other types of stiff, flexible metal sheeting also work
well. Cardboard or strong paper can be used, but yields poor results.
(ix) Light to illuminate the specimen should be reflected through the
microscope with a mirror or other shiny surface. A strong light source is
required with sunlight working as well as any.
-19-
B2 . Hand-Held Microscope
Slide
(Not Part of
Microscope)
1) Lens Mount
Rubber Band
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Lens Mount
(2) Rubber Band
b. Construction
(1) Lens Mount
Qu Items Required
1 Metal Strip (A)
1 Rubber Band (B)
Dimensions
8 cm x 2.5 cm x
0.1 cm
Drill a hole in the metal
strip (A) . The position of
the hole will depend upon
where on the slide the
specimen has been mounted.
The dimensions given here are
for a lens mount to be used
with a standard 7.5 cm x
2.5 cm (3 inches x 1 inch)
glass slide.
-20-
(2) Rubber Band
Wind the rubber band (8)
around the slide and lens
mount (A) to hold the two
together so they don't slip.
Be certain to position the
lens directly over the
specimen or portion of
specimen to be viewed. Take
care in moving the lens
mount that the edge does not
cut the rubber band.
c. Notes
(i) This simple microscope works well with either glass bead or pen light
bulb lenses [see I/Bl, Notes (iii) and (iv) ] . Using it with a water
drop lens is quite difficult in that it is di 'fficult to prevent the watfer
from touching the slide. In addition, this microscope works best when held
vertically rather than horizontally as is necessary with the water drop.
(ii) See the foil owing diagrams for positioning the glass bead and penlight
bulb lenses on the lens mount .
Penlight Bulb
Lens Mount (A)
Glass Slide
Glass Beac
(iii) This mimicroscope should be used primarily with permanently prepared
slides as opposed to fresh mounts. Focusing is achieved simply by holding
the slide with one hand and moving the lens mount back and forth with the
other .
B3. Match Box Microscope *
-21-
(3) Lens Holder
(2) Stage
(1) Body
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Body
(2) Stage
(3) Lens Holder
Qu Items Required
1 Match Box Cover (A)
1 Match Box Drawer (I
1 Metal Strip (C)
1 Aluminum Strip (D)
Dimensions
5 cm x 3.5 cm x
1 . 5 cm
5 cm x 3.5 cm x
Lb cm
3 cm x 1 cm x 0.1 cm
7 . 5 cm x 2.5 cm x
. 1 cm
b. Construction
(1) Body
With a razor blade, make two
slits in the back of the
match box cover (A) . These
slits need to be slightly
wider than the width of the
lens holder (2.5 cm) .
*Adapted from African Primary Science Program, Making Things Look Bigger,
(Nairobi, Kenya: Curriculum Development and Research Center, 1967), pp 24-25.
-22-
(2) Stage
y
]/
Slit
Metal
/ Strip (C)
Cut out one end of the match
box drawer (B) so that
portions of the end . 5 cm
wide are left on either side.
At the same end cf the drawer,
make a slit about 1 cm wide
with a razor blade. Insert
the metal strip (C) into
this slit and glue it in
place. Use this strip to
move the stage up and down
when focusing.
(3) Lens Holder
\+- 2.5-
Lens
Holder (D)
Cover (A)
Drill a hole in one end of
the aluminum strip (D) , and
bend it at right angles. If
a drill is not available,
punch a hole in the metal
with a nail. Insert the
metal strip through the slits
in the back of the match box
cover (A) to insure that it
will be held in place securely.
Then, remove the lens holder,
slide the stage into the
body, and replace the lens
holder. The microscope is
now ready for use.
-23-
c. notes
(i) To use this microscope, place the slide or specimen on the stage
directly under the lens. Focusing is accomplished by moving the stage up
and down as the lens holder remains stationary. As with all single lens
microscopes, the eye must be kept quite close to the lens in order to see
the image.
(ii) See I/Bl, Notes (ii), (iii), and (iv) for complete instructions in
adapting the lens holder to use either water drop, glass bead, or penlight
bulb lenses .
(iii) With an item this small, it is found that there is some difficulty
in keeping a glass slide on the stage, especially when the stage must be
moved in focusing.
(iv) Since it is difficult to get sufficient light through the specimen,
it is suggested that the inside of the match box drawer be lined with light
colored paper or metal foil to increase reflected light.
(v) This microscope was found to be good for inspecting such items as
coins, newsprint, insect wings, crystals, etc.
-24-
B4_. Adjustable Microscope
(3) Lens Mount
(2) Lens Mount
Holder
(4) Adjustment
Knob
(5) Mirror
(1 ) Base and
Stage Assembly
a. Materials Required
Component s
(1) Base and Stage
As sembly
Qu Items Requi red
1 Wood (A)
2 Wood (B)
1 Nut (C)
Dimensions
12 cm x 8 cm x
1 . 5 cm
6 cm x 8 cm x 1 . 5 cm
. 5 cm internal
diameter
(2) Lens Mount
Holder
Wood (D)
Bolt (E)
2 . 5 cm x 8 cm x
1 .5 cm
0.5 cm diameter,
6 cm long
-25-
(3) Lens Mount
(4) Adjustment Knob
(5) Mirror
Wing Nut (F)
Nuts (G)
Wood (ii)
Aluminum Sheet (I)
Wood Spool (J)
Bolt (K)
Nut (L)
Mirror Glass (M)
Wood (N)
Metal Sheet (0)
Nail (P)
Tack (Q)
b. Construction
(1) Base and Stage Assembly
Nut (C) Glued
Over Hole
0.5 cm internal
diameter
0.5 cm internal
diameter
10 cm x 3.5 cm x
. 5 cm
9 cm x 2 cm x . 1 cm
3 cm long, 2 cm
diameter
0.5 cm diameter,
6 cm long
0.5 cm internal
diameter
3 cm x 3 cm
3 cm x 3 cm x . 5 cm
8 cm x 2 cm x
0.0 5 cm
5 cm long, 0.2 cm
diameter
1 cm long
Cut a notch 3 cm square in
one piece of wood (B) to
make the stage. In this same
piece, drill a hole through
the wood. It should be
centered between the edge of
the notch and the edge of the
stage. Make this hole slightly
smaller in diameter than the
bolt (K) used to make the
adjustment knob. Place the
nut (C) over the hole in the
wood. Give it a sharp blow
with a hammer so that it
forms an indentation in the
-26-
Upright (A)
wood. Remove the nut, then
glue it back in place taking
care not to get glue in the
hole or in the threads of
the nut. It is best to allow
the nut to dry with the bolt
threaded through both it and
the hole to assure proper
alignment. Nail or screw
this piece, the stage (B) ,
to the upright (A) . Likewise,
nail or screw the base (B)
to the upright.
Base and Stage
Assembly
(2) Lens Mount Holder
Drill Hole
0.6
Wood (D)
Cut a notch 0.6 cm deep and
4 cm wide in the piece of
wood (D) . Drill a hole in
the center of the notch.
This hole should be slightly
smaller than the bolt (E)
used to hold the lens mount
in place.
Screw the wing nut (F) onto
the bolt (E) and run it to
the end of the bolt. Use one
nut (G) to hold the wing nut
tight to the end of the bolt.
Place the other nut (G) over
the hole in the piece of wood
(D) and strike it hard with
a hammer, taking care not to
split the wood. Remove the
-27-
Lens Mount Holder
Bolt (E
Wing
Nut (F)
Nuts (G
Base and Stage
Assembly
nut from the impression in
the wood thus formed, and
place a drop of strong glue
in the impression and replace
the nut. Be sure not to
get glue in the threads of
the nut or in the hole
(this may be avoided by
allowing the nut to dry with
the bolt run all the way
through the hole) . Finally,
glue, nail or screw the
lens mount holder to the
base and stage assembly.
(3) Lens Mount
Metal Sheet (I)
Make a slit in the end of
the piece of wood (H) , with
a saw. This slit should be
about 1 cm deep and slightly
wider than the thickness
of the metal sheet (I)
used.
Wood (H)
-28-
Lens Mount
(4) Adjustment Knob
c
Spool (J) Nut(L)
Jolt (K)
Side v±et
Bend the aluminum sheet (I)
to a right angle 1 cm from
its end. Drill a hole
3 . 5 cm from the bend and
centered. The diameter of
this hole will depend upon
the size of the water drop
desired, the size of the
glass bead used, or the
size of the penlight bulb
lens. [See I/Bl, Notes (ii) ,
(iii) , and (iv) for instruc-
tion in making and using
such lenses . ] Glue the
aluminum sheet (I) to the
piece of wood (H) .
Run the bolt (K) through
the hole in the wooden
spool (J) . Secure the spool
tightly in place with the
nut (L) . Screw the end of
the bolt through the hole
and nut in the base and
stage assembly.
(5) Mirror
Mirror (M)
wood (N
Nail (P)
X
Cut the metal sheet (0)
and drill two holes the same
diameter as the nail (P)
used. Bend the ends up at
right angles along the dotted
lines. Drill a hole through
the wood (N) which is about
the same diameter as the nail,
-29-
2 ^l
K 2
>-5s — *-k-3^ — >r<— 2.5
Metal Strip (0)
Insert the nail (P) through
this hole and glue it in
place. Glue the mirror (M)
to the wood. Nail or screw
the metal strip into posi-
tion on the base directly
under the notch in the stage.
Insert both ends of the
nail through the holes in the
metal strip. There should
be enough friction to keep
the mirror at the desired
angle .
Completed Mirror
c . Notes
(i) The slide containing the specimen to be observed is placed over the
hole in the stage. Light is reflected through the specimen and lens by
means of the mirror. Coarse adjustment is obtained by varying the position
of the lens mount with the lens mount holder bolt. Fine adjustment is attained
by turning the adjustment knob so that it moves the metal portion of the lens
mount up and down.
(ii) This microscope may be used with any of the three types of lenses :
water drop, glass bead, or penlight bulb lens. See ~I/B1, Notes (ii),
(iii), and (iv) for details in mounting each type lens on the lens mount.
(iii) Light is reflected through the lens by use of the mirror. The mirror
need not be a real glass mirror - any smooth, shiny surface (e.g., polished
metal) is acceptable. The source of light may be a bulb, room light, or
skylight, with skylight proving most satisfactory.
-30-
C. SUPPLEMENTARY APPARATUS
CI. Glass Slide and Cover Slip
(1) Glass Slide
(2)
Cover Slit
a. Materials Require d
Components
(1) Glass Slide
(2) Cover Slip
b. Construction
(1) Glass Slides
(2) Cover Slip
c. notes
Qu
1
Items Required
Glass Plate (A)
Transparent Plastic (B)
Dimensions
7 . 5 cm x 2 . 5 cm x
0.2 cm
2.5 cm x 2.5 cm x
0.05 cm
Glass slides may be hand
cut from plate qlass (A) ,
but this is tedious and time
consuminq.
Cover slips can be cut from
stiff transparent plastic
sheets (B) with scissors.
(i) Good quality slides may be purchased almost as inexpensively as they
can be handmade, or they may be obtained for free from hospital blood laboratories
as they are often discarded after use.
(ii) Consult a good general biology source book for information on preparing
either fresh or permanently mounted slides.
C2. Staining Vessel
-31-
(2) Rack
(1) Can
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Can
(2) Rack
b. Construction
(1) Can
(2) Rack
Qu I tems Required
1 Tin Can (A)
1 Wood (B)
Dimensions
8 cm high, 8 cm
diameter
8 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
The diameter of the can (A)
may be somewhat larger than
8 cm (it should not be much
less) , and the height of
the can should be about the
same as the length of the
slides used.
Cut notches in the wood (B)
about 1 cm deep and just
slightly wider than the
slides used. Paint the wood
with a sealant (e.g., varnish,
shellac) to prevent the
stain from soaking into it.
Push the rack down into the
-32-
Slots
Can (A)
Rack
Top View
bottom of the can (A) ,
notches up. The rack holds
the slides upright and
prevents them from touching
each other. Always make
the length of the rack equal
to the diameter of the can
to insure that it will fit
tightly in the bottom of
the can.
c . Notes
(i) Staining vessels are necessary when preparing slides for microscopic
inspection. Consult a good standard biology source book for instruction in
preparing slides and stains.
-33-
C3. Stain Bottle
(1) Bottle
2 ) Dropper
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Bottle
(2) Dropper
b. Construction
(1) Bottle
(2) Dropper
Q u I tems Required
Pill Bottle (A)
Glass Tube (B)
Rubber Tube (C)
One-hole Cork Stopper (D)
Wire (E)
Dimensions
25-50 ml capacity
12 cm long, 0.75
cm diameter
4 cm long, 1 . cm
diameter
To fit mouth of
pill bottle
5 cm long
V Heat
Use a clear glass pill or
medicine bottle (A) .
Make the tube portion of the
dropper two at a time by
heating a piece of glass
tubing 20 cm long in the
Here
Draw Out
When Soft
Break
-34-
32)
middle and drawing it out
to a narrow filament when
soft. Break the tube at
the most narrow part of
the constriction to form
two tubes (B) .
Wire
(E)
Rubber Cork
Tube (c) (D)
c. Notes
Glass
Tube
(B)
Force the glass tube through
the one-hole cork stopper
(D) . Push the piece of
rubber tubing (C) onto the
wide end of the glass tubing
and tie it off with the
wire (E) to form the dropper's
suction cap. Adjust the
length of the glass tube
so that when the cork is in
place in the bottle, the
tip of the glass tube almost
touches the bottom of the
bottle.
(i) If one-hole cork stoppers are not available, use a cork borer to make
them from regular corks or use one-hole rubber stoppers.
(ii) Be sure to label the bottle with the name of the type of stain it
contains .
C4 . Hand Microtome
-35-
(1) Block and Bolt
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Block and Bolt
b. Construction
(1) Block and Bolt
:
End View
Side-view
(Cross-section)
q u Items Required
1 Wood Block (A)
1 Glass Tubinq (B
Wood Dowel (C)
Steel Bolt (D)
Nut (E)
End View
Dimensions
3 cm x 5 cm x 6 cm
5 cm long, 1 cm
inside diameter
I cm lonq, 1 cm
diameter
9 cm lonq,
approximately
0.7 cm diameter
To fit bolt
Prepare the wood block (A)
by drillinq or borinq a
hole slightly larqer in
diameter than the outside
diameter of the qlass tubinq
(B) 4 cm into one end of the
block. Drill another hole
(0.7 cm diameter) throuqh
the same end of the block.
This second hole should be
-36-
Nut (E)
Impression of Nut
centered in the bottom of
the first, larger hole, and
be drilled through the
block. Next, lay the nut (E)
on the end of the block which
has the small hole in it.
Strike the nut sharpiy with
a hammer to make an impression
of the nut in the wood. (Be
careful not to split the
wood, and also make sure the
hole in the nut aligns with
the hole in the wood.)
After the impression has
been made in the wood, glue
the nut into place with epoxy
resin cement.
Wood
Dowel (C)
Bolt (D)
Glass
Tube (B)
Wood
lock (A)
t (E
Shove the piece of glass
tubing (B) down into the
large hole in the wood (A) ,
and glue it in place. The end
of the tube should stick out
about 1 cm. See that this end
is cut as evenly as possible
and fire polish it just enough
to remove any possible burrs.
Insert the short wooden dowel
(C) into the tube. Screw
the bolt (D) through the nut
until the end of the bolt
touches the wooden dowel.
Side View
(Cross-section)
-37-
The microtome is now ready
for use.
c. Notes
(i) To operate the hand microtome, screw out the bolt until the wood
dowel drops to the bottom of the glass tube. Then, insert the section of
plant stem (or whatever is to be cut for the microscope slide) into the glass
tube. Fill the space which remains between the specimen and the glass tube
with melted paraffin and allow it to cool. When the paraffin is hard, screw
the bolt in until it begins to force the wood dowel to push the paraffin and
specimen out of the glass tube. As the specimen comes out, use a single-
edge razor blade to cut off sections. Practice with the microtome will
eventually allow very thin sections to be sliced from specimens.
(ii) It may be desirable to substitute metal tubing for the glass as glass
is easily broken . Also, painting the end of the wood dowel with shellac
or varnish will prevent the paraffin from sticking to it.
-38-
11. DISSECTING APPARATUS
A. DISSECTING APPARATUS
These items will permit the student to do many of the dissections normally
done in elementary biology course work. If possible, each student should have
each of the items in this section, but if cost and materials prohibit this,
then enough items should be produced to permit students to work in groups of
two or three.
Al . Dissecting Needles
-39-
A. DISSECTINGAPPARATUS
(1) Handle
c
(3) Binding^ (2) Needle
3^=
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Handle
(2) Needle
(3) Binding
b. Construction
(1) Handle
(2) Needle
o.3ll
4.7
Qu Items Required
1 Wood Dowel (A)
1 Steel Wire (B)
1 Iron Wire (C)
f
"^fe
Dimensions
10 cm long, 0.6 cm
. 8 cm diameter
5 cm long, #20
gauge wire (approx-
imately 0.05 cm
diameter)
About 10 cm of
#24 gauge wire
(about 0.025 cm
diameter)
The wood dowel (A) serves as
the handle. Make a slit about
2 cm deep in one end to
receive the needle. Sand the
two ends to make them smooth.
Break the wire (B) by bending
it back and forth instead of
cutting it with wire cutters
as hard steel can easily
damage wire cutters. File one
end to a point.
-40-
(3) Binding
At a point 0.3 cm from the
unpointed end, grasp the
wire with two pliers and
slowly bend until a 90°
angle has been reached. If
a "bent tip" dissecting
needle is desired, bend the
needle to an angle of 130°
approximately 1 cm from the
pointed end.
Insert the end of the needle
into the handle about 1 cm
deep. Wrap several turns of
binding wire (C) tightly
around the handle and twist
the ends together.
c. Notes
(i) Iron, rather than steel, wire may be used for the needle by first making
the bends where needed. Then heat the wire until it becomes dull red and
immerse it in cold water 'to temper it. The iron wire will become hard enough
so that it does not bend easily; however, it may be broken if pressed with too
much force.
A2 . Strapping Scalpel
-41-
a
(1) Handle
( 3) Binding
(2) Blade
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Handle
(2) Blade
(3) Binding
b. Construction
(1) Handle
c
q u Items Required
1 Wood Dowel (A)
1 Steel Strapping (B)
1 Iron Wire (C)
K l M
Dimensions
10 cm long, 1 cm
diameter
6 cm long, 1 cm
wide
About 12 cm long,
#24 gauge (approx-
imately 0.025 cm
diameter)
Make a slit in one end of
the dowel (A) with a saw for
the blade. Sand the ends to
make them smooth.
(2) Blade
/K/1&
J^
w^:;
Cut the piece of strapping (B
into the shape of a scalpel
blade (many shapes are useful
for different purposes) .
Taper one end so it will fit
the handle. File the edges
(as shown by the shaded areas)
to make the cutting edge.
-42-
(3) Binding
Insert the blade into the
slit in the end of the
handle. Wrap several turns
of #24 gauge wire (C)
tightly around the handle
and twist the ends together.
This should hold the blade
firmly in place.
c. Notes
(i) The blade should be sharpened after the entire scalpel has been
assembled in order to lessen the danger of being cut,
(ii) An equally good scalpel may be made from a piece of strapping about
15 cm long. Simply form a blade at one end as described above, and let the
remainder act as the handle. This portion should be wrapped in tape to make
it more comfortable to handle.
Tape-
// ////&
A3. Razor Scalpel
-43-
(1) Handle
3) Fasteners
(2) Blade
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Handle
(2) Blade
(3) Fasteners
b. Construction
(1) Handle
V//////
Tape (B]
Qll Items Required
2 Steel Strapping (A)
:
Tape (B)
Double-Edged Razor
Blade (C)
Bolts (D)
Nuts (E)
\
Holes
Dimensions
15 cm long, about
1.25 cm wide
About 50 cm long
2 . 5 cm x 3.5 cm
1.0 cm long, 0.4
cm diameter
. 4 cm inside
diameter
Fasten the two pieces of
strapping (A) together with
tape (B) . Drill two holes
(0.5 cm diameter) in the
other end for the bolts (D)
to fit through. Locate
these holes so that the
razor blade (C) will be held
in the desired position.
-44-
(2) Blade
\T\y-v — ~— - — \r^s~v
O
O
Insert the blade between
the two halves of the
scalpel handle so that the
two holes align over the
holes in the razor blade.
Razor Blade (C)
Strapping (A)
(3) Fasteners
Insert the short bolts (D)
through the holes and screw
on the nuts (E) . This
scalpel is now ready for
use.
c. Notes
(i) The razor blade can easily be replaced as it becomes dull.
A4 . Scissors
-45-
(1) Body
(2) Fastener
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Body
(2) Fastener
b. Construction
(1) Body
6.5'
Si
2
Items Required
Steel Strapping (A)
Bolt (B)
Nut (C)
'Heat and Twist
Here
">T<-
.5
=31
Dimensions
15 cm x 1.25 cm,
at least . 05 cm
thick
. 5 cm long, . 5
cm diameter
0.5 cm inside
diameter
Hold the pieces of strapping
(A) tightly together and
heat them at a point approx-
imately 6.5 cm from the end
until they both glow dull
red. Then, twist them a
full quarter (90°) turn.
Immediately plunge them into
-46-
cold water to restore their
temper .
Drill a hole 0.6 cm in
diameter about 1 cm from the
twist on the short (6.5 cm)
end of both pieces .
Bend the long (8.5 cm) ends
up to form the handles.
///// ////////^/A
<<?
Outside
J=7
1
-Inside
30 c
Trim the tips of the strapping
to the shape of blades .
Sharpen the shaded area of
the blade. File this area
on the outside edge only,
not the inside edge where
the blades meet, In sharpen-
ing, file upward at an angle
of 30°.
-47-
(2) Fastener
Burred (roughened)
End of Bolt (B)
Fasten the two halves of
the scissors together with
the short bolt (B) (a long
bolt may be cut to length)
and nut (C) . When the
proper tightness is obtained,
burr the end of the bolt to
prevent the nut from loosening
and falling off.
Notes
(i) Scissors constructed of strapping of 0.05 cm in thickness work fairly
well in cutting tissues as long as short cuts are made, and the material being
cut is kept well back between the blades.
(ii) Scissors work better if the blades are slightly curved as shown below.
Side View
A5. Forceps
11/ Strapping
a. Materials Required
Components Qu
(1) Strapping 1
b. Construction
(1) Strapping
L
Items Require d
Steel Strapping (A)
Dimensions
20 cm long, about
1.25 cm wide
Cut each end of the steel
strapping (A) to a taper.
Temper This Bend
Side View
Bend the strapping a full
180° at the midpoint. Make
certain the tops touch and
are in good alignment. Heat
the bent area to dull red
and plunge immediately into
cold water to temper the
steel. Bow the blades of
the forceps slightly
A6. Dropper
-49-
t£C
/
(2) Cap
(1) Tube
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Tube
(2) Cap
b. Construction
(1) Tube
f.
Qu Items Required
1 Glass Tubing (A)
1 Rubber Tubing (B)
2 Soft Wire (C)
Heat
Draw out
Dimensions
7 cm long, about
. 6 cm diameter
4 cm long, 1 cm
outside diameter
4-5 cm long
Hold the glass tubing (A)
over a hot flame, turning
it to heat it evenly. When
it begins to soften, draw
it out until the constriction
is the desired diameter, and
allow it to cool. When cool,
cut the tubing at the con-
striction with a small
triangular file.
cut
-50-
[2) Cap
Rubber Tubing (B)
Glass Tube (A)
Wires (C)
Slip the rubber tubing (B)
over the end of the glass
tube. Wrap a piece of wire
(C) tightly around the tubing
to hold it tight to the
glass, and twist the end of
the wire together. In a
similar manner, close off
the open end of the rubber
tubing so that it is airtight.
c. Notes
(i) Droppers may be made in many shapes and sizes to fit the various uses
for which they are needed.
A7 . Dissecting Pan
(1) Pan
(2) Wax
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Pan
(2) Wax
b. Construction
(1) Pan
Qu Items Required
1 Oil Can (A)
Paraffin Wax (B)
Cut here
Dimensions
Approximately
17 cm x 2 5 cm x 3 cm
Enough to partially
fill the pan (about
: liter)
Remove the handle from a
4 liter rectangular oil can
(A) . Cut off the sides about
3 cm from the edge. It is
best to put tape on the
sharp edges of the pan to
prevent students from cutting
themselves .
Pan
-52-
(2) Wax
Fill the pan about two thirds
full of melted paraffin wax
(B) ( and allow the wax to
harden. Be careful in
heating the wax not to get
it too hot or it may ignite.
It is best to place the
paraffin block in a glass
jar, and put the glass jar in
hot water until the wax melts.
c, Notes
(i) Any container like an oil can (e.g., waxed cardboard milk containers)
can be used as long as a suitable pan can be made from it. Alternatively,
pans can be made from sheet metal if there is sufficient technical help
available .
(ii) Cases for dissecting tools can be made from heavy cloth material if
it is desirable to keep each student's kit separate from the others.
-53-
111. AQUATIC COLLECTING APPARATUS
These are a wide variety of items used in collecting plant and animal
specimens from the aquatic environment. Remember to use waterproof and water
resistant materials wherever possible in the construction of this apparatus.
A. NETS AND DREDGES
Nets and dredges are easily made items useful in collecting both plants and
animals. They are all made with some sort of netting or mesh.
B. AQUATIC TRAPS
These two traps can be used to catch some types of aquatic animals.
C. SUPPLEMENTARY AQUATIC MATERIALS
Materials included here are less necessary, yet still useful, items in
aquatic collection.
Al. Dip Net
-54-
Loop
(3) Net
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Handle
(2) Loop
(3) Net
b. Construction
Qu Items Required
1 Wood Dowel (A)
1 Heavy Wire (B)
1 Stiff Wire (C)
1 Nylon Baq (D)
(1) Handle
S" \ 0.4
•7 1 >
t> <H , v *
' n j
^ /
U u
r
End View
Side View
Dimensions
100 cm long,
2 cm diameter
115 cm long,
. 3 cm diameter
About BO-90 cm long,
. 1 cm diameter
50 cm wide,
60 cm long
The length of the handle may
be varied according to per-
sonal preference, cut two
grooves in one end of the
wood dowel (A) , one opposite
the other. Make these grooves
about 7 cm long, . 3 cm deep,
and about 0.4 cm wide.
-55-
(2) Loop
Binding of Loop
to Handle
Form a loop 30 cm in diameter
from the heavy wire (B) . Leave
about 7 cm of excess wire at
each end which will fit into
the grooves in the handle.
Bend these 7 cm portions to
90° angles. Fit the wire ends
into the grooves in the
handle and bind them in place
with the stiff wire (C) .
(3) Net
c. Notes
If a nylon laundry bag (D) of
the given dimensions is used,
cut it down so that it is
only about 30 cm deep rather
than 60. Other types of cloth
or netting can also be used.
Use cloth or netting through
which water can easily pass,
but remember that the size
of the net weave determines
the size of the smallest
organisms which will be held
by the net. Make sure the
opening of the net is 5-10
cm greater in circumference
than that of the loop. Simply
sew the open portion of the
net around the loop with strong
thread.
(i) The dip net is used to collect aguatic organisms of all kinds from the
shore or boat. Be sure to make its construction as sturdy as possible.
A2 . Hand Screen
-56-
(1) Frame
and Screen
a. Materials Required
Components
(i) Frame and
Screen
Qu I tems Required
2 Wood Dowels (A)
1 Stiff Wire (B)
2 Stiff Wire (C)
1 Fine Wire Mesh (D)
1 Fine Wire Mesh (E)
1 Fine Wire (F)
Dimensions
45 cm long,
1.5 cm diameter
35 cm long,
. 4 cm diameter
50 cm long,
. 4 cm diameter
35 cm x 50 cm
30 cm x 15 cm
150 cm long,
0.05 cm diameter
-57-
b. Construction
(1) Frame and Screen
Handle
o 1 e
-»-Hole
■«!w ood Dowel
_ Hole
Nail
(a:
Stiff Wire (C)
Mesh
Detail
Set the two wood dowels (A)
so that they are 50 cm apart.
Take the wire mesh (D) and
secure it to the dowels by
wrapping it around each dowel
once and then nailing it in
place on the dowel. Be sure
Dowel (f\) to leave 10 cm free at one end
of each dowel to serve as
handles. Drill two holes,
0.4 cm in diameter, in each
dowel; drill the first 1 cm
from the end with which the
wire mesh is even, and the
second, 12 cm from the end
which is to be the handle.
Bend the two 50 cm sections
of stiff wire (C) into semi-
circles, each with a diameter
of 30 cm. Place one end of
one piece of wire into one
hole of the wood dowel, so
that about 5 cm of wire is
protruding out of each hole.
Bend these end pieces around
the wood dowel until they
reach the main body of wire.
Follow this procedure for the
other piece of wire. These
two pieces of wire now form
an outside frame to which the
wire mesh (D) is attached.
Stiff Wire (C)
Fine Wire (F)
Fine Wire Mesh (D)
Using the fine wire (F) , in
much the same way as one
would use thread in sewing,
wire the wire mesh (D) to the
stiff wire frame, letting the
edges of the wire mesh
slightly overlap the wire
frame .
Detail
Bottom View
Dowel (A)
Stiff Wire (B)
Wire Mesh (E)
Stiff Wire (C)
Take the last piece of stiff
wire (B) and run it between
the ends of the two wood
dowels with which the wire
mesh is flush. Secure it by
bending about 3 cm of each
end around the wire frame.
Now, take the remaining piece
of wire mesh (E) and cut it
into the shape of a semi-
circle. Wire this semicircle
onto the bottom of the hand
screen with the "sewing"
method described above.
-59-
c. Notes
(i) This simple device is an effective means of collecting small plants
and animals in streams. To operate, simply hold it in the water and permit
the stream water to flow through the wire mesh and remove organisms as they
are collected.
(ii) As an extra measure, have someone stand upstream and disturb rocks,
thus chasing out underlying organisms.
A3. Dredge
-60-
(2) Net
(3) Weight
(1) Can
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Can
(2) Net
(3) Weight
Qll Items Required
1 Tin Can (A)
1 Nylon Bag (B)
1 Wire Strapping (C)
3
Bolts (D)
3
Nuts (E)
2
Cords (F)
6
Corks (G)
1
Nail (H)
2
Steel Bars (I )
2
Bolts (J)
2
Nuts (K)
1
Cord (L)
Dimensions
15 cm diameter,
18 cm long
50 cm wide,
60 cm long
50 cm long, 1 . 5 cm
wide, 0.05 cm thick
1 . 5 cm long
To fit bolts
20 cm long
3 cm x 3 cm
. 5 cm long
12 cm x 3 cm x 0.3 cm
1 . 5 cm long
To fit bolts
100 cm long
-61-
b. Construction
(1) Can
(2) Net
Nail Head (H)
Side View of
Rivet
Cut both ends from the tin
can (A) . Flatten one end of
the can to a rough rectangular
shape about 15 cm x 10 cm.
Drill three holes in the round
end of the can, each about
4 cm from the ends . Space
these holes every 120° and
make them slightly larger in
diameter than the bolts (D)
used. Make two more holes
the same diameter at the
other end of the can. These
holes should be about 2 cm
from the edge and 9 cm apart.
Make a loop from the strapping
(C) that will fit inside the
can (i.e., slightly smaller
than 15 cm in diameter) . To
do this easily, drill a small
hole near each end of the
strapping. Cut the head off
a flat-headed nail (H) and
insert this nail through the
holes in the strapping.
Flatten the nail down like a
rivet to hold the loop to-
gether.
-62-
Rivet
Drill holes in the strapping
which will align with the
holes in the round end of the
can. One might wish to drill
these holes before riveting
the loop together. These
holes should be the same dia-
meter as the holes in the can.
Strapping Loop (C)
Seam
-Rivet
■Hole
Nylon Bag (B)
Side View
Sew the open end of the nylon
bag(B) around the strapping loop
with stout thread. The net
may also be made from nylon
netting if ready-made bags
are unavailable. Punch holes
through the nylon bag to
correspond to the holes in
the strapping loop. Fasten
the net and loop to the can
with the three nuts (E) and
bolts (D) .
Sew Here
Detail of Cork (G) Attachment
Punch holes through the six
corks (G) and tie one of them
to each of the two cords (F) .
Run each of the cords through
two of the remaining corks
and tie one cord to each
corner of the net (B) . It
may be necessary to sew around
each connection to prevent
the nylon from tearing.
-63-
(3) Weight
Can (A)
Weight (I)'
Can (A)
Detail
Cord (L)
Cord (L)
Drill two holes slightly
larger than the bolts (J)
used in each steel bar (I) .
Make these holes 9 cm apart
so they will align with the
holes already drilled in the
can. Insert the two bolts
(J) through the holes in one
of the steel bars and then
put the bolts through the
holes in the can so that the
steel bar weight is on the
outside of the can. Stretch
the cord (L) around the two
bolts.
Place the second steel bar
(I) over the two bolts and
fasten with the nuts (K) .
The cord (L) should be firmly
held between the can and bar.
Tie the loose end of the cord
together to form a loop.
c. Notes
(i) In use, the dredge is tied to a long rope and dragged along the bottom
of a body of water. Organisms living on or near the bottom are collected in
the net.
(ii) The weights insure that the dredge will stay in the correct position
on the bottom. The corks are to help keep the net off the bottom until it is
-64-
filled with collected material . This prevents it from being torn.
(iii) Use water resistant materials wherever possible in construction of
this and all aquatic apparatus.
A4 . Plankton Net *
-65-
(1) Net
(2) Bottle
(3) Tow Line
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Net
(2) Bottle
(3) Tow Line
b. Construction
(1) Net
Qll Items Required
1 Nylon or Silk Stockinq (A)
1 Metal Strappinq (B)
1 Glass Bottle (C)
1 Rubber Band (D)
2 Cords (E)
1 Lead Weiqht (F)
Dimensions
About 50 cm lonq
40 cm lonq, 1.5 cm
wide, 0.05 cm thick,
2 . 5 cm diameter
2 . 5 cm diameter,
6 cm lonq
13 l.f-
13
ir
13
T
60 cm lonq
Weiqht is variable
Drill four holes into the
metal strappinq (A) at 13 cm
intervals. Make the holes
about 0.3 cm in diameter.
*Adapted from Bioloqical Sciences Curriculum Study, High School Biology:
Student's Manual, (Chicago: Rand McNally and Company, 963), p 157.
-66-
Hold the strapping in a ring
shape and sew the open end
of the stocking (A) to this
ring. Cut off the foot of
the stocking.
Sew
(2) Bottle
(3) Tow Line
First Cord (E)
Attach the glass bottle (C)
to the end of the net by.
wrapping the rubber band (D)
tightly around it. Be sure
the opening to the bottle is
not clogged by material from
the net.
Punch small holes in the net
to correspond to the three
holes in the strapping ring.
Tie one end of one cord (E)
to one of these holes, make
a loop in the middle of the
cord, and tie the other end
to the hole formed where the
two ends of the strapping
overlap. Next, tie the
other cord (E) to the re-
maining hole in the ring. Tie
the middle of this cord to the
knot in the other cord, and
tie the free end to a lead
fishing weight (F) .
Weight (F)
-67-
c. Notes
(i) The plankton net is best used by dragging it behind a boat near the
surface of the water. Organisms are trapped in the bottle as the water
washes through the net.
(ii) Use netting with as fine a mesh as possible. An old parachute is
an excellent source of material for the net.
A5. Two-Man Seine*
-68-
(1) Frame
1(2) Mesh
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Frame
(2) Mesh
Qli I tems Required
1 Nylon Rope (A)
3 Cork Floats (B)
2 Wood Dowels (C)
1 Galvanized Chain
1 Nylon Cord (E)
1 Nylon Seine Net
Dimensions
250 cm long,
0.5 cm diameter
15 cm long,
10 cm diameter
150 cm long,
3 cm diameter
200 cm long
About 1000 cm long,
0.2 cm diameter
130 cm x 200 cm
Construction
(1) Frame
,Dowel (C)
Cork (B)
Chain (D)
O
200
VT
130
Fasten the ends of the chain
(D) to the bottoms of the
wooden dowels (C) . Tie one
end of the nylon rope (A) to
the top of one dowel about
20 cm from the end. Run the
free end of the rope through
the holes in the cork floats
(B) and tie it to the other
* Adapted from Jens W. Knudsen, Biological Techniques, (New York: Harper and
Row, 1966) , p 326.
-69-
(2) Mesh
dowel so that the distance
between the two dowels when
the rope is stretched out is
200 cm.
Use a mesh (F) from 0.25 to
0.50 cm square. Fasten it
to the dowel (C), chain (D),
and rope (A) as shown by
using the small diameter
nylon cord (E) .
Attachment of Mesh (F) to
Rope (A)
Attachment of Mesh (F)
to Dowel (C)
Attachment of Mesh (F) to
Chain (D)
-70-
c. Notes
(i) Two persons are required to use the seine net. Each holds one of
the poles upright in the water and they both walk slowly toward the shore.
A great variety of organisms can be collected in this manner.
(ii) Wherever possible, use corrosion and rot resistant materials for
the seine such as nylon rope, cord and mesh and galvanized chain.
-71-
A6. Lift Net
(2) Spreaders
(1) Net
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Net
(2) Spreaders
b. Construction
(1) Net
Qll Items Required
1 Nylon Mesh (A)
4 Metal Washers (B)
2
Heavy Wires (C)
Sew Washer
Corner Detail
Dimensions
50 cm x 50 cm
1 . 5 cm diameter
100 cm long,
. 3 cm diameter
Construction of the lift net
is quite simple. Simply fold
over each corner of the nylon
mesh (A) and sew a washer (B)
to the double thickness of
material. Punch a hole
through the center of each
washer and through the double
layer of nylon.
*Adapted from Jens W. Knudsen, Biological Techniques , (New York: Harper and Row,
1966), p 283.
-72-
(2) Spreaders Roll each wire (C) to a
roughly semicircular shape.
Insert one end of each wire
through adjacent corners of
the net and bend up the ends .
Insert the other end of each
wire through the corner
diagonally opposite the first
corner and bend up the ends
again. Use a small piece
of wire to bind the spreaders
together where they cross.
Notes
(i) Use the lift net to catch small fish and crustaceans. Place a suitable
bait firmly tied to a weight in the center of the net. Tie a line to the lift
net where the spreaders cross and lower the net into the water. Ifthe water
is clear, watch for fish or crustaceans to near the center of the net, and
when they do, quickly lift the net to trap them. Ifthe water is not clear,
simply wait for one or two minute intervals before quickly raising the net.
(ii) Small fish may be collected by floating food on the surface of the
water. As small fish come to the food, the net may be raised, and the fish
collected.
-73-
B. AQUATIC TRAPS
Bl, Piling Trap
;i) Suspended Traps
a. Materials Required
Components Qu i tems Required
Wood (A)
(1) Suspended Traps 1
Dimensions
24 cm x 24 cm x 4 cm
-74-
4 Wood (B)
1 Wire (C)
1
Metal Rod
5 Nails (E)
10 cm x 10 cm x 2 cm
120 cm long,
0.1 cm diameter
26 cm long,
1.5 cm diameter
2.5 cm long,
0.3 cm diameter
b. Construction
(1) Suspended Traps
Large Block
"" of Wood (A)
Bent Nail (E)
Nail (E)
-Small Block
of Wood (B)
Place a heavy staple or bent
nail (E) in the center of the
large block of wood (A) .
Drill a hole 0.4 cm in dia-
meter through the center of
each of the small blocks of
wood (B) . Place a nail (E)
near each of the holes and
wrap the wire (C) around these
nails as it is passed through
the holes. Bend the nails
down across the holes. The
small blocks should be spaced
about 20 cm apart, with the
first block about 30 cm from
the large wood block (A) , and
the metal rod (D) about 30 cm
from the last block. Drill
a hole in the metal rod
through which the wire is
run, and connect the rod to
the wire. Finally, attach
the upper end of the wire to
the staple or bent nail on
the underside of the large
block of wood.
-75-
c. Notes
(i) Many aquatic animals attach themselves to the bottom of boats and
piers. This trap utilizes this principle in capturing these organisms.
To operate, simply place the apparatus in the water and remove approxi-
mately every 30 days and collect the organisms which have attached themselves
to the blocks of wood.
(ii) The large wood block may be substituted for by some other type of
float. A watertight plastic container (e.g., an empty plastic bottle of
bleach) can be used. This float can be painted a bright color, thus making
it easy to see.
(iii) Any type of weight may be used provided that it is not heavy enough
to submerge the large block of wood while still keeping the small blocks of
wood under water.
-76-
B2 . Funnel Trap
^ n.
(1) Body
(2) Funnel
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Body
(2) Funnel
Qu I tems Required
1 Wire Mesh (A)
1 Wire Mesh (B)
1 Stiff Wire (C)
1 Stiff Wire (D)
[ Fine Wire (E)
1 Stiff Wire (F)
1 Sprinq (G)
1 Wire Mesh (H)
4 Wire Mesh (I)
1 Fine Wire (J)
Dimensions
45 cm x 8 cm
25 cm diameter
85 cm lonq,
0.2 cm diameter
50 cm lonq,
0.2 cm diameter
0.05 cm diameter,
about 300 cm lonq
85 cm lonq,
0.2 cm diameter
2 cm lonq
30 cm diameter
17 cm x 17 cm
0.05 cm diameter,
about 300 cm lonq
b. Construction
(1) Body
|< 45 *\
Cylinder
25 Diameter
Make a cylinder 45 cm lonq
and 25 cm in diameter from
the rectanqular piece of wire
mesh (A) . Wire the 45 cm
sides toqether with the fine
Mesh (A)
-77-
Seam
wire (E) in much the same
way as one would sew a cloth
seam. Let the edges of the
mesh overlap about 1 cm to
facilitate "sewing" them
together with the wire.
Detail
f — 10-
Wire
20
Wire Handle (D)
Next, bend the stiff wire (D)
to the shape of a "U" Make
two small holes 10 cm apart
in the cylinder. Insert the
U-shaped wire through these
two holes, and bend up the
ends leaving about 2.5 cm of
the wire extending out of the
cylinder as a handle. Take
the 25 cm diameter piece of
wire mesh (B) and "sew" it to
one end of the cylinder with a
piece of fine wire (E) to seal
it off.
Mesh Circle (B)
Connection
Hoop Made
from Wire (C)
Wire.
Mesh (A)
Detail of
Connection
Wire
Hoop (C)
Fine Wire (E)
Finally, make a 25 cm diameter
"hoop" from the stiff wire (C)
by hooking the ends together.
Connect the wire hoop to the
open end of the cylinder with
fine wire to stiffen the cylin-
der. This is best done by
folding about 2 cm of the end
of the cylinder back over the
hoop and sewing the hoop
inside this flap for the full
circumference of the hoop.
Detail
(2) Funnel
Cutout
Mesh ( I
Cut a square 17 cm on a side
from the center of the circu-
lar piece of wire mesh (H) .
Also, cut a V-shaped notch
2.5 cm deep in one edge of the
piece of mesh.
-79-
Wire
Mesh (I)
Cut the four pieces of wire
mesh (I) into triangular-shaped
pieces 17 cm at the base and
5 cm at the apex. Sew the
four pieces together along
their long edges with fine
wire (J) to form a pyramid-
shaped funnel.
"Sew" Along These
Edges
Mesh Funnel
Funnel
Circular
Mesh
"Sew" Along
This Edge
Sew the funnel to the cir-
cular piece of mesh (H) with
the sguare cutout.
-80-
Loop
Spring (G)
Hoop
Form a hoop from the stiff
wire (F) 25 cm in diameter
with small loops at both ends.
Connect these two ends of the
hoop with the spring (G) .
(Springs can easily be made
by wrapping stiff wire around
a pencil or other round object.)
Funnel
wi re
Hoqp (F) Spring (G)
Notch
Now, fold up a ridge 2 . 5 cm
high all around the circum-
ference of the circular piece
of mesh (H) . Wire the hoop
(F) to this ridge making
certain the spring (G) on the
hoop aligns with the "V" notch
in the mesh. Fit this funnel
Ridge assembly over the end of the
cylindrical body by pulling
the spring open slightly.
Slip the funnel over the end of
the cylinder and let the spring
snap back. The tension of the
spring should hold the funnel
assembly to the cylinder
relatively tightly.
Notes
(i) Use of the funnel trap is simple. . Just remove the funnel portion of
the trap by spreading open the spring sllightly and pulling the funnel off the
cylinder. Place some rocks or other weil'ghts in the trap to hold it down in the
water, and place a suitable bait (e.g., pieces of fish, old cheese wrapped in
a cloth bag) in the cylinder. Replace the funnel, and tie a length of rope to
the handle. Drop the trap into a stream or pond, and tie the other end of the
rope to an object on the bank or a float (a plastic bottle makes an excellent
float) . Check the trap periodically to remove captured animals and replace
baits .
(ii) The following two patterns can also be used for the funnel:
17
tsH
44
The first pattern is used because it wastes less material while the
second is good because only one seam needs to be sewn while the others are
merely folded.
(iii) Wherever possible, use rustproof materials like aluminum screening
in the construction of this item.
(i v ) The circular and other shapes can more easily be cut from the wire
mesh if a pattern is first cut from paper and taped to the mesh. Then cut
around the paper rather than attempting to draw a pattern on the mesh as this
is extremely difficult to do.
-82-
C. SUPPLEMENTARY AQUATIC MATERIALS
CI. Bottom Sampler
(1) Can
( 2 ) Handle
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Can
(2) Handle
Qu I tems Required
1 Tin Can (A)
:
Hinge (B)
3
Bolts (C)
2
Nuts (D)
3
Wood Screws (
1
Wood (F)
:
Wood Dowel (G
:
Eyed Screw (H
:
Wire (I)
Dimensions
12 cm long,
8 cm diameter
1 . cm long
To fit bolts
1 . cm long
5 cm x 4 cm x 4 cm
2 . 5 cm diameter,
length variable
18 cm long
b. Construction
(1) Can
Hinge (B)
Top View
(2) Handle
f> ~ x .-Handle (G)
Hinge (B)
Eyed Screw (H)
Wire (I)
Side View
Remove one end of the tin
can (A) . Punch a small hole
near the bottom of the can.
At the open end of the can
fasten one plate of the hinge
(B) to the can with the bolts
(C) and nuts (D) . Holes will
have to be drilled or punched
through the can for the bolts
to go through. The hinge may
be fastened to the can with
sheet metal screws if these
are available .
Drill or bore a hole the same
diameter as the wood dowel (G)
through the middle of the
wood block (F) . Insert one
end of the dowel into the
block and screw or glue them
together. With screws (E) ,
fasten the plate of the
hinge (B) to the bottom of
the block. Screw the eyed
screw (H) into the other
side of the wood block.
Finally, make a knot in the
end of the wire (I) and pass
the free end through the
hole in the bottom of the
can (the knot must be inside
the can) and tie the free
end to the eyed screw.
-84-
Can (A)
^
Hinge (B).
-L Dowel (G)
Wood Block (F)
Bottom View
c. Notes
(i) To operate, simply lower the sampler into the water until the can hits
bottom. Drag the can back and forth until it feels heavy, then pull it out
of the water and remove the bottom sediment. The wire prevents the can from
hitting bottom with the open end pushed against the handle so that no sedi-
ment can enter it. Collect bottom samples in different ponds and streams to
check the sediment for the various organisms living in each.
(ii) The length of the handle will vary according to the depth of the water
where the sample is to be taken.
(iii) The details of design of this item depend mainly on the type of hinge
used.
C2 . Grappling Hook
(2) Sheath
(1) Prongs
a. Materials Reguired
Components
(1) Prongs
(2) Sheath
b. Construction
(1) Prongs
Qtl I tems Required
6 Stiff Wire (A)
1 Soft Wire (B)
1 Sheet Metal (C)
2 Soft Wire (D)
Dimensions
40 cm long,
0.25 cm diameter
About 100 cm long,
0.05 cm diameter
12 cm x 8 cm x
0.05 cm
8 cm long,
. 1 cm diameter
Bend each piece of stiff
wire (A) to the shape of a
hook with a loop at one end.
Group the prongs together by
twos and bind them together
-86-
with the soft wire
Then place the three resulting
double prongs together and
bind them so that the prongs
are about at angles of 120°
to each other.
(2) Sheath
c. Notes
To finish the grappling hook
simply wrap the piece of
metal sheet (C) around the
middle of the hook and bind
it in place with the soft
wire (D) .
(i) To use the hook, just tie it to the end of a rope or cord, drop it into
the water, and pull it up when it becomes entangled in vegetation.
(ii) Be careful when handling this item of the sharp edges of the sheet
metal and the points of the wire used in binding it together.
(iii) If heavy steel wire is available, only one piece is needed per hook
rather than two.
C3. Grappling Bar
(3) Weight
(2) Handle
(1) Body
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Body
(2) Handle
(3) Weight
b. Construction
(1) Body
Qll I tems Required
1 Wood (A)
24 Nails (B)
1 Soft Wire (C)
2 Nails (D)
2 Lead Pipe (E)
T
Jl
*
Dimensions
25 cm x 4 cm x 2 cm
5 cm long,
0.2 cm diameter
50 cm long,
. 2 cm diameter
3 cm long
8 cm long,
1 . 5 cm diameter
Drive the nails (B) through
the wood (A) in two rows,
staggering them so that they
don't align directly above
one another. One row of nails
is nailed through from one
side while the other row is
nailed through the opposite
side.
Where the nails have been
driven through the wood, bend
them upwards at approximately
45° angles as close to the
base as possible.
Side Views
(2) Handle
Soft
Wire (C)
Nail (D)~
Detail
Hammer one of the nails (D)
into the end of the body and
let it protrude about 1 cm.
Twist one end of the soft
wire (C) around the nail,
then hammer it down completely.
(3) Weight
c. Notes
Slip the two pieces of lead
pipe (E) over the free end of
the handle, and fasten the
free end to the opposite end
of the body. Bend the handle
at its middle allowing one
weight to slide down each
arm of the handle.
(i) To use the grappling bar, tie the end of a long, stout rope or cord to
the handle. Drop the bar in water, allow it to reach bottom, and drag it
along until resistance is-felt, then haul it up. The bar works well for
retrieving plant specimens from pond and river bottoms.
89-
(ii) Be certain the weights are sufficient to sink the bar easily, as wood
can be extremely buoyant.
C4. Water Glass
-90-
(2) Frame
(1) Glass
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Glass
Qll I tems Required
1 Glass Plate (A)
Dimensions
6.3 cmx 10.3 cmx
. 3 cm
(2) Frame
Wood
20 cm x 9 cm x 2 cm
-91-
b. Construction
;i) Glass Plate
(2) Frame
■Groove
Glass (A)
Cut the piece of glass (A)
to the specified dimensions,
making sure that all the
edges are smooth and free of
burrs .
Cut a groove, . 3 cm wide and
0.7 cm deep, across the width
of each piece of wood (B) ,
1.2 cm from one end. Fasten
two of the pieces of wood
together at right angles
using waterproof cement along
the point of contact. Be
sure that the grooves are lined
up and that they face to the
inside. Use nails or screws
to reinforce this joint. Glue
two sides of the glass plate
with waterproof cement into
the two grooves, placing the
long side of the glass plate
into the groove in the piece
of wood with a width of 9 cm.
The next piece of wood should
be placed so that the groove
holds the larger of the two
free sides remaining on the
glass plate. The last piece
of wood then fits over the
final free end. These last
two pieces of wood should be
glued and nailed to the pre-
viously assembled structure
-92-
as they are put into place.
Seal the ends of the grooves
on the outside of the water
glass with waterproof cement.
Make certain all seams are
waterproof.
c. Notes
(i) The water glass is designed to view the bottom organisms of a body of
water. When the end with the glass plate is inserted into the water, glare
from the sun as well as surface ripples are eliminated.
-93-
IV. TERRESTRIAL COLLECTING APPARATUS
These items are designed for use in collecting land invertebrates, vertebrates, and
plants. Instructions for killing, preserving, and storing these organisms can be
found in a variety of books and journals.
A. INSECT COLLECTING APPARATUS
Insects are the most common, familiar organisms everywhere in the world. Items
described in this section are used in collecting and treating them.
B. SOIL ORGANISM COLLECTING APPARATU S
Thesepieces of equipment enable students to discover the multitude and diversity
of living things in the soil.
C SMALL VERTEBRATE COLLECTING APPARATUS
Small lizards, snakes, birds and mammals may be captured alive using these devices.
D . PLANT COLLECTING APPARATUS
The vasculum and plant presses in this section are used in collecting and pre-
serving plant materials .
-94-
A. INSECT COLLECTING APPARATUS
Al. Butterfly Net
<r
;i) Handle
(3) Net
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Handle
(2) Loop
(3) Net
b. Construction
(1) Handle
CK' 4vi
End View
Qll I tems Required
1 Wood Dowel (A)
1 Heavy Wire (B)
1 Stiff Wire (C)
1 Nylon Bag (D)
H
Side View
Dimensions
100 cm long, 2 cm
diameter
115 cm long, 0.3 cm
diameter
About 80-90 cm long,
. 1 cm diameter
50 cm wide, 60 cm long
The length of the dowel (A) from
which the handle is made may be
varied according to personal
preference. Cut two grooves in
one end of the handle, one
opposite the other. Make these
grooves about 7 cm long, . 3 cm
deep, and about . 4 cm wide.
-95-
(2) Loop
Binding of Loop
to Handle
(3) Net
Form a loop 30 cm in diameter
from the heavy wire (B) . Leave
about 7 cm of excess wire at
each end which will fit into the
grooves in the handle. Bend
these 7 cm portions to 90°
angles. Fit the wire ends into
the grooves in the handle and
bind them in place with the
stiff wire (C) .
Select a finely meshed nylon
laundry bag (D) or sew a net
from a piece of nylon cloth or
similar sturdy cloth with a
relatively open weave. Whether
a bag is used or a net sewn
specifically for the butterfly
net, make sure the opening of
the net is 5 - 10 cm greater in
circumference than that of the
loop. Simply sew the open por-
tion of the net around the loop
with strong thread.
Notes
(i) Use the butterfly net to collect flying insects of all kinds. If it is
sturdily made, it can also be swept through high grass to collect insects living
in the grass. Consult a good source book for information on preserving, mounting,
and storing collected insects.
(ii) The material used for the net must have a fine mesh through which insects
cannot escape. At the same time, the mesh must be open enough to permit air to
easily pass through it with little resistance. Parachute nylon is especially good
for this purpose.
-96-
A2 . Killing Jars
(1) Stopper
(2) Bottle
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Stopper
(2) Bottle
b. Construction
(1) Stopper
(2) Bottle
Notes
Qu I tems Required
1 Stopper (A)
1
Glass Pill Bottle (B)
Dimensions
To fit bottle
Approximately 10 cm
long, 4 cm diameter
Select a cork or rubber stopper
(A) which will effectively seal
the bottle airtight.
Use a glass bottle (B) with a
wide mouth.
(i) Killing bottles for insects can be made in several ways. Some are
exceptionally dangerous and should only be used by the instructor. Be certain to
label all jars as to their contents.
(ii) The following are methods of preparing killing jars:
(A) Cyanide Killing Jar - This is extremely dangerous and should only be
used by the instructor. First, put a thin layer (0.5 cm) of potassium or sodium
cyanide crystals in the bottom of the bottle. Cover this with a similar layer of
fine sawdust or dry plaster of Paris. Finally, cover both layers with a layer of
wet plaster of Paris. The jar is ready to use when the plaster hardens. Be sure
to keep it tightly stoppered except to kill insects. Use only rubber stoppers.
(B) Ethyl Acetate Killing Jar - Put a thin (0.5 cm) layer of wet plaster
of Paris in the bottom of the jar. When it has dried, put some ethyl acetate over
the plaster and cover it with a small amount of tissue paper. This is also
-97-
especially dangerous and should be kept tightly stoppered.
(C) Carbon Tetrachloride Killing Jar (1) - Pin a small piece of blotting
paper or cotton to the bottom of the stopper. Saturate this with carbon tetra-
chloride just before putting the insects in the jar. This is a much safer jar for
student use as the carbon tetrachloride quickly evaporates.
(D) Carbon Tetrachloride Killing Jar (2) - Use a one-hole stopper for the
jar with a short piece of glass tubing extending through the hole. Plug one end of
the tube with cotton. Place the insect in the jar, and replace the stopper. Then,
carbon tetrachloride can be dripped through the tube onto the cotton plug where
the fumes will kill the insect.
(E) Carbon Tetrachloride Killing Jar (3) - Place several rubber bands in
the bottom of the jar and soak them overnight in carbon tetrachloride. Pour off
the excess liquid and put a tight-fitting piece of blotting paper over the bands to
keep them in place. This jar is relatively long lasting in its killing power.
(iii) The cork or rubber stoppers may absorb the toxic fumes from the jar so be
sure to destroy them when the jars are discarded. Be absolutely certain that no
fumes escape through the cork. It may be necessary to dip cork stoppers in melted
paraffin wax to seal them completely.
-98-
A3 . Relaxing Jar
1) stopper
(2) Bottle
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Stopper
(2) Bottle
b. Construction
(1) Stopper
Su
Items Required
Cork Stopper (A)
Glass Pill Bottle (B)
Dimensions
To fit bottle
Approximately 10 cm
lonq, 4 cm diameter
(2) Bottle
Select a cork or rubber stopper
(A) which will effectively seal
the bottle airtight.
Use a qlass bottle (B) with a
wide mouth .
c. Notes
(i) Relaxinq bottles are used to make dead insects more flexible so that they
can be manipulated into a desirable mountinq position.
(ii) The followinq is a method for preparinq a relaxinq jar: Place some moist
sand in the bottom of the jar and add a few drops of carbolic acid to inhibit mold
growth. Cover the sand with a piece of moist blotter paper. Leave the insects in
the jar overniqht to relax them.
A4 . Insect Spreading Board
-99-
(1) Platform
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Platform
b. Construction
(1) Platform
5.5
Qu I tems Required
1 Wood (A)
2 Wood (B)
2
Wood (C)
Dimensions
12 cm x 30 cm x 1 .0 cm
5.5 cm x 30 cm x
0.5 cm
5 . 5 cm x 1 cm x 2 cm
Cut the two small pieces of
wood (C) in half diagonally,
yielding four wedge-shaped
pieces. Glue two of the wedges
to the backs of each of the two
slats (B) . Turn the two slats
over and glue them to the base
(A) . Leave a 1.0 cm gap between
the two slats.
c. Notes
(i) Make the slats (B) from the softest wood available (e.g., balsa) . Consult
a good biological source book for details on preparing insects to be pinned and
prepared on the spreading board.
-100-
(ii) A simple, inexpensive spreading board can be made from a cardboard box.
Remove the top and cut the ends as shown in the illustration. Then glue two pieces
of cardboard to the box to complete the spreading board.
Cardboard
Box
tardboard
Slats
-101-
A5 . Beating Sheet *
(1) Sheet and Supports
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Sheet and
Supports
b. Construction
(1) Sheet and Supports
Qll Items Required
1 Heavy Cloth (A)
2 Wooden Slats (I
Sew
Dimensions
100 cm x 100 cm
12 5 cm x 4 cm x 1.0 cm
Fold back about 10 cm of the
heavy cloth (A) (muslin will
work) at each corner and sew a
pocket into each such that the
tips of the wooden slats (B)
will fit into them.
Detail
*Adapted from Jens W. Knudsen, Biological Techniques , (New York: Harper and Row,
1966), p 209.
-102-
c. Notes
(i) The sheet is held under shrubbery and insects are shaken off onto it where
they can easily be captured.
(ii) Bamboo, wooden dowels, broom handles, etc. can be substituted for the
wooden slats. In any case, the crosspieces can be removed after use to permit
compact storage.
-103-
A6. Aspirator
' (3) Intake Tube
(1) Receptacle
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Receptacle
(2) Draw Tube
(3) Intake Tube
Qll Items Required
Test Tube (A)
2-Hole Stopper
Glass Tube (C)
Rubber Tube (D)
Gauze (E)
Tape (F)
Glass Tubing (G)
Dimensions
15 cm long, 1 . 6 cm
inside diameter
To fit test tube
6 cm long, 0.2 cm
inside diameter
35 cm long, . 3 cm
inside diameter
1 cm x 2 cm
2 cm long
16 cm long, 0.3 cm
inside diameter
b. Construction
(1) Receptacle
Plug the end of the test tube
(A) with a two-hole stopper
-104-
(2) Draw Tube
Glass (C) y.
Tape (F) >-
Gauze (E) y.
Detail
Use the tape (F) to hold the
gauze (E) in place over the end ,
of the glass tube (C) . Be
certain air still flows freely
through the end of the tube.
Insert the end of the tube
through one of the holes in the
stopper. Attach the end of the
rubber tube (D) to the glass tube
(C).
(3) Intake Tube
c. Notes
Bend the glass tube (G) to an
120° angle about 6 cm from one
end, and insert this end into
the remaining hole in the
stopper.
(i) The aspirator is a useful instrument when collecting insects which are too
small or too fragile to be collected by hand. To operate, place the draw tube
between one's teeth and the intake tube near the insect to be collected. The
collector then sucks in and the insect is captured. The gauze prevents the insect
from entering the draw tube.
(ii) A glass bottle or vial may be used in place of a test tube, but in any case
a tight-fitting stopper is required. The stopper may be either rubber or cork,
and cotton may be used in place of the gauze.
-105-
A7 . Night Flying Insect Collector
(2) Body
-(1) Base
a. Materials Reguirec
Components
(1) Base
(2) Body
Qll Items Reguired
1 Wood (A)
1 Electric Lightbulb
Socket (Porcelain) (B)
2 Electrical Wire (C)
1 Electrical Plug (D)
2 Wood (E)
2 Wood (F)
1 Hinge (G)
4 Fine Wire Mesh (H)
1 Thick Rubber Band (I)
1 Glass Container with Lip (J)
1 Light Bulb (K)
2 Screw Eyes (L)
1 Wire (M)
Dimensions
20 cm x 20 cm x 2 cm
12 cm diameter
50 cm long, 0.3 cm
diameter
22 cm x 50 cm x 1.0 cm
20 cm x 50 cm x 1 . cm
2 cm x 17 cm
500 ml
100 watts
2.5 cm long, 0.2 cm
diameter
60 cm long, 0.1 cm
diameter
-106-
b. Construction
(1) Base
(2) Body
1 Thin Sheet Metal (N)
1 Wire (0)
2 Wood Screws (P)
10 cm x 10 cm
10 cm long, 0.1 cm
diameter
1 cm long
The electric light bulb socket
(B) is centered on the base (A)
and two holes are drilled through
the base for the attachment of
the electrical wires (C) to the
terminals on the electric light
socket. Attach the electrical
wires to these terminals and
extend them through the base.
The socket is then screwed into
place on the base using wood
screws. Attach the electrical
plug (D) to the wires to complete
the base.
The two pieces of wood (F) are
nailed into place on opposite
sides of the base. One of the
pieces of wood (E) is nailed
onto the third side of the base
where it overlaps the two ends
of the sides already attached.
It is then nailed to the other
two sides. Take the last piece
of wood (E) and attach the hinge
(G) to the bottom of it and to
the bottom of the base so that
it forms a door which opens
downward.
-107-
Hinge (G)
Side View
z-+Ji
re Together
ong This Edge
M*i
Pattern
Nail These
Edges to Box
Take the four pieces of wire
mesh (H) and cut them to the
pattern shown, then wire them
together along their edges to
form a square funnel. The
opening at the bottom of the
funnel (4 cm square) should be
the same width as the diameter
of the neck of the collecting
bottle (J) used. Nail three of
the edges of the funnel along
the top edges of the fixed
sides of the trap. Of course,
do not nail the fourth edge to
the door or the door will not
open.
Completed Funnel
<SS)
Collar
Next, cut a collar from the piece
of sheet metal (N) so that it
will fit under the lip on the
glass container (J) . Cut this
collar in such a way so that it
-108-
Funnel
Glass
Container
(J)
Side View
Wire (M)
Collar
Funnel
Rubber
Band (
<i
Top View
does not form a continuous
circle, but instead has a break
in it. Now, wrap the collar
tightly around the neck of the
glass container just under the
lip. Pull the two free ends
together and overlap them. Then
punch a hole through the ends
and place the piece of wire (0)
through the holes and bend it so
that it holds the collar tightly
closed. The glass container
can now be picked up by the
collar without falling through
it. Remove the collar, force
the mouth of the glass container
up through the bottom of the
hole in the funnel, and replace
the collar so that it holds the
glass container in place.
Place two screws (P) , one on
the outside of the door about
2 cm down from the top, and the
other in the same position on
the side opposite the door.
Then, close the door and stretch
the rubber band (I) from one
screw to the other over the top
to hold the door closed.
Finally, attach the two screw
eyes (L) to opposite corners on
the sides of the top and secure
the wire (M) to them, and screw
the light bulb (K) into the
socket.
-109-
c. Notes
(i) To operate, simply hang the trap at night outside from a fixture (e.g., a
tree limb), and attach the electrical wires to a power supply. Be sure to hangit
in an area where there are a large number of night-flying insects. The light will
attract the insects and they will fall into the glass container. When a sufficient
number have become trapped in the container, place a wad of cotton soaked in
carbon tetrachloride over the opening, thus killing the insects.
(ii) By placing two hinges on the side of the door, it can be opened to the side
if so desired.
-110-
SOIL ORGANISM COLLECTING APPARATUS
Bl. Soil Organism Sieve
Sieve
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Sieve
b. Construction
(1) Sieve
Qll I tems Required
2 Wood (A)
2 Wood (B)
1 Wire Screen (C)
Dimensions
30 cm x 10 cm x 2 cm
2 6 cm x 10 cm x 2 cm
30 cm x 30 cm
Simply nail or screw the four
wood boards (A,B) together to
form a frame and nail the piece
of screen (C) to the bottom of
the frame.
Frame
c. Notes
(i) Use the sieve to separate out soil organisms such as worms, grubs, etc.,
from the material in which they are living.
(ii) Carefully choose the size of wire mesh used in the sieve. A mesh or screen
with too fine a weave will become clogged with soil and rendered useless. a rela-
tively wide mesh will work well if the soil is coarse, allowing the organisms to
fall through the mesh while holding back the soil.
-111-
(iii) A frame for the sieve can also be made by knocking out the bottom from an
old drawer or wooden box.
-112-
52. Soil Insect Trap
(2) Funnel
(1) Can
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Can
(2) Funnel
b. Construction
(1) Can
(2) Funnel
Qll I tems Required
1 Tin Can (A)
1 Wire Mesh (B)
Dimensions
0.5 liter capacity
About 15 cm x 15 cm
Remove one end from a tin can
(A).
Cut a pattern for the funnel
from the wire mesh (B) . The
outside diameter of the pattern
should be approximately 2 cm
wider than the diameter of the
can (A) used.
Edges "Sewn"
with Wire
Connect the two edges of the
cutout portion of the pattern by
"sewing" them together with
wire. This will result in a
cone with a hole at the apex.
Complete the soil insect trap
-113-
Wire
W
Wi re Mesh
Funnel
Can (A)
Side View
by inserting the funnel in the
open end of the can and folding
the excess wire mesh down around
the outside of the can to hold
it in place. If necessary, a
piece of wire wrapped around the
outside of the can and twisted
tightly will help hold the
funnel in place too.
c. Notes
(i) Place the trap in a hole in the ground so that the top edge of the trap is
even with the soil level. Thus, small insects and other ground organisms crawling
across the trap will fall through the hole in the funnel into the can. Check the
can periodically for captured organisms.
(ii) The trap can be varied by making the funnel portion from aluminum foil,
waxed paper, or other materials which are smooth and will help prevent the organ-
isms from crawling out of the trap. Also, dusting the inside walls of the can with
fine powder (e.g., talcum powder) will prevent organisms from crawling up the
walls and out of the cage.
-114-
B3 . Baermann Funnel
(1) Funnel
(2) sc
(3) Clamp
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Funnel
(2) Screen
QU I tems Required
Glass Bottle (A)
Glass Tube (B)
1-Hole Stopper (C)
Rubber Tube (D)
Fine Wire Mesh (E)
Stiff Wire (F)
Dimensions
About 7 cm diameter,
20 cm long
5 cm long, . 5 cm
inside diameter
To fit bottle opening
12 cm long
7 cm diameter
16 cm long, 0.3 cm
diameter
(3) Clamp
Screw Clamp (G)
Chem/IV/A4
-115-
b. Construction
(1) Funnel
Cut Here
Soda Pop Bottle
Cut the top of a glass soda pop
bottle (A) off (See CHEM/I/F2
Force a short piece of glass
tubing (B) through the one-hole
stopper (C) and seal the open-
ing with the stopper. Next,
attach the rubber tube (D) to
the glass tube.
(2) Screen
Ring
Make a ring slightly smaller in
diameter (i.e., about 5 cm
diameter) than the bottle with
the stiff wire (F) . Fold the
edge of the circular piece of
wire mesh (E) under the wire
ring. The wire mesh will pro-
bably be stiff enough to hold
itself in place without being
wired to the ring.
^Fold Edges of
Mesh Under
(3) Clamp
c. Notes
Use the clamp (G) to seal the
rubber tube airtight.
(i) The Baermann funnel is designed to extract soil nematodes from soil. To
use it, it must be supported by a ring stand. Clamp off the tubing, and let the
end of the tube extend into a small vial or bottle. Set the wire mesh disc into
the funnel, put a small cloth bag of soil on the disc, and fill the apparatus
with water. After an hour or so, release the clamp to collect a small sample of
water which can be examined for soil nematodes. (See illustration on next page.)
-116-
Funnel
Glass
Tube (B)
Rubber
Tube (D)
— Cloth Bag of Soil
Wire Mesh Disc
Support with Ring
Stand Here
One-Hole Stopper (C)
—Clamp (G) Here
Bottle
(ii) If commercial funnels of the correct size are available and inexpensive,
they can be substituted for the bottle funnel. Also, the end of the rubber tube
can be sealed off with a pencil stub or piece of wooden dowel if a good clamp is
not available .
B4 . Berlese Funnel
-117-
(1) Funnel
(2) Steel Wool
^ (3) Glass Jar
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Funnel
(2) Steel Wool
(3) Glass Jar
b. Construction
(1) Funnel
Qll I tems Required
1 Glass Bottle (A)
1 Steel Wool (B)
1 Glass Jar (C)
Cut Here
Dimensions
About 7 cm diameter,
20 cm long
30 g
50 ml capacity
Cut the top of a soda pop bottle
(A) off (See CHEM/I/F2 to make
the funnel. Alternately, use a
commercial glass or metal funnel,
or make one using metal foil or
heavy paper.
(2) Steel Wool
Place the steel wool (B) inside
the funnel so that it blocks off
the opening.
-11?
(3) Glass Jar
Fill the jar (C) about 1/2 full
of alcohol or formalin and place
it directly under the funnel.
c. Notes
(i) To use the Berlese funnel, a ring stand and light source are needed.
Support the funnel with the ring stand so that the neck of the funnel is directly
over the glass jar. Place a 25 watt light directly above the funnel and close
enough to the funnel that the heat from the bulb will warm the contents of the
funnel. Place the soil sample in the funnel so that it rests on the steel wool.
Pick out the larger soil organisms with forceps. The smaller organisms will be
driven down by the light and heat of the bulb until they drop through the steel
wool into the preservative in the jar. The apparatus should be left in place
several days to insure that most of the organisms are collected.
Ring
Stand
Light Source
Funnel (A)
Soil Sample
Steel Wool (B)
Jar (C) with Preservative
-119-
C. SMALL VERTEBRATE COLLECTING APPARATUS
CI. Simple Box Trap
(4) Stop
(1) Body
Front View
(3) Door
(2) Trip
(2) T
rip
(4) Stop
(3) Door
(1) Body
Back View
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Body
(2) Trip
(3) Door
q u
Items Required
3
Wood (A)
1
Wood (B)
2
Wood (C)
Wire Mesh (D)
Wood (E)
Metal Hinge (F)
Eyed Screw (G)
String (H)
Wood (I)
4
Round-headed Screws (J)
Construction Board (K)
Flat Metal (L)
Dimensions
60 cm x 2 cm x 1.0 cm
58 cm x 2 cm x 1 . cm
5 cm x 5 cm x . 5 cm
20 cm x 22 cm
17.5 cmx 55 cmx
. 5 cm
5 cm x 5 cm
2 cm long
85 cm
10 cm x 4 cm x 1.5 cm
Approximately 1 . cm
long
19 cm x 20.5 cm x
0.2 5 cm
15 cmx 1.5 cmx 0.5
cm
-120-
(4) Stop
b. Construction
(1) Body
Wood (A)
2 Bolts (M)
2 Nuts (N)
4 Tacks (0)
String (P)
Rubber Band (Q)
Wood (R)
Bolt (S)
Nut (T)
Grooves
1.25 cm long
To fit bolts
1.0 cm long
7 cm
6 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
5 cm long
To fit bolt
Begin the body by cutting a
goove 0.3 cm wide and 0.5 cm
deep parallel to the end of
two of the pieces of wood (A)
This groove is 1.0 cm from the
end. Nail or screw these two
boards to the third board (A) .
Wood yfB
Top View
In the corner of the board (B)
to be used as the top, drill a
hole 0.7 cm in diameter about
3 cm from each edge, and drill
a hole about 0.5 cm in diameter
through the other end of the
top, 1 . cm from the edge and
centered. Set this board (B)
aside until the trip (2) is
completed.
-121-
Triangular"
Block
Top Board (B)
Wire Mesh (D)
(partial ly cut away)
Seal off one end of the body by
nailing the wire mesh (D) to it.
Reinforce the corners with tri-
angular pieces of wood gotten
by cutting the wood pieces (C)
in half diagonally. Again, do
not seal the end until the
trip (2) and top board (B) are
in place.
End View
Cut Along
This Line
(2) Trip
-Eyed Screw
Side View (Cross-section)
Detai 1
Hinge (F)
Hinge (F)
Screw (J) Heads
CS>
Screw the eyed screw (G) into
one end of the wood (E) about
1 . cm from the edge and cen-
tered. To the back of this
board, fasten the hinge (F)
which also should be about 1.0
cm from the edge and centered.
Next, fasten the other half of
the hinge to the bottom of the
body so that the board is
centered in the bottom of the
body (i.e., it should be 2.5
cm from each end and 0.25 cm
from each side of the body) .
Use round-headed screws (J) so
that the hinge cannot close
completely flat. In this way,
the trip will be held up at a
slight angle, which is needed in
the design of this trap. Alter-
nately, the length and tension
of the trip string (N) can be
adjusted to hold the trip in
-122-
String (H
Wire
Mesh (D)
Top (B)
Side View (Cross-sect.On)
the desired position without the
necessity of using this type
of hinge and screws.
Now tie one end of the string to
the eyed screw (G) in the trip
(H). Run the other end of the
string through the hole in the
top board (B) of the body which
may now be nailed or screwed
into place. Also, the wire
mesh (D) for the end of the
body may be fastened in place
after the top is finished.
Drill Hole
'at Angle
0.75
To complete the trip, cut a
notch from the block of wood (I)
and attach the free end of the
string to the block by tying
it through a hole drilled in
the block.
Wood Block (I)
Side View (Cross-section)
-123-
(3) Door
20.5
'Metal Bar (L)
Door
Trip
Cut a hole 4.25 x 1.0 cm in the
construction board (K) 3 cm
from the end of the board and
centered. Next, using the nuts
(N) and the bolts 90, bolt the
flat metal bar (L) into position
just under the hole. Holes will
have to be drilled through the
board for the bolt to go
through. The door is now
finished and should slide easily
up and down in the notches in
the sides of the body.
Detail
(4) Stop
Hole
Cut the piece of wood (R) as
shown and drill a hole in the
wood slightly larger in diameter
than the bolt (S) used.
-124-
Hammer a tack (0) into each side
of the stop (R) , and run a bolt
(S) through the stop and the
hole in the corner of the top.
Screw the nut (T) loosely onto
the bolt. Hammer two other
tacks (0) into the top of the
body, one to either side of the
stop and slightly behind it.
Finally, tie the piece of
string (P) between the tack in
the left side of the stop and
the tack to the left in the top,
and similarly attach the rubber
band (Q) on the right side.
Fix the tension in the rubber
band so that the stop will be
held out over the door when the
door is closed, thus preventing
the door from being raised
after the trap has been sprung.
Notes
(i) To set the trap up, place it where small animals are 1 ikely to be found.
Push the stop out of the way and put the door between the grooves in a raised
position. Next, push the notched portion of the trip block through the hole in
the door to ho Id the door up. Release the stop, allowing the rubber band to pull
it against the door. At this point, the string attaching the trip block to the
trip should be taut. Finally, place a suitable bait in the extreme rear of the
cage on the tr tp.
'Door
Side View
(Cross-section)
Trap in "Set' Position
-125-
Because the round heads of the hinge screws hold the trip up at a slight angle, the
animal entering the trap must move to the rear of the trap before the combination
of its (the animal's) weight and leverage causes the rear of the trip to drop down,
pulling the trip block back out of the hole in the door. The door then drops down
in the grooves, the metal bar aiding in a faster drop. Finally, the stop is pulled
out over the top of the door once the door is out of its way, and is held over the
door because the rubber band pulls against the string.
Door
Side View
(Cross-section)
Trap in "Sprung"
Position
(ii) It may be desirable to modify the construction of this trap by making it
with wire mesh sides as many animals are difficult to entice into enclosed spaces.
(iii) This design can be altered in many ways, especially with respect to propor-
tion, dimensions, and materials used, including plywood or other thin but strong
construction materials.
-126-
C2. Potter Bird Trap *
(2) Door
(Screen Not
Shown)
(3) Trip
( 1 ) Frame
(Screen Not
Shown)
a. Materials Required
Components
flu.
Items Required
(1) Frame
i
Wood (A)
4
Wood (B)
7
Wood (C)
4
1
Wire Screen (D)
Wire Screen (E
(2) Door
(3) Trip
Stiff Wire (F)
1 Stiff Wire (G)
Stiff Wire (H)
Wire Screen (I)
"U" Tack (J)
Stiff Wire (K)
Dimensions
2 4 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
50 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
20 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
23 cm x 49 cm
23 cm x 23 cm
125 cm long, 0.3 cm
diameter
60 cm long, 0.3 cm
diameter
27 cm long, . 3 cm
diameter
22 cm x 22 cm
1 cm long
25 cm long, . 3 cm
diameter
* Adapted from Nuffield Foundation, Teacher ' s Guide III: The Maintenance of Life,
(England: Longmans/Penguin Books, 1966) , p 201 .
-127-
"U" Tacks (L)
Hood (M)
b. Construction
(1) Frame
Wood
Wood (A)-
o-«-
23
h4
24
Top View
(2) Door
Wire
Screen (I),
0.5
T.
1 QHi long
19 cm x 12 cm x 1 . cm
Nail and glue the basic framework
together as shown. Begin by
nailing one piece of wood (C) to
the ends of two long pieces (B) .
20 Ndil four of the remaining short
pieces (C) to the U-shaped piece
_^t- already made. Nail one in an
upright position at each end of
each long piece (B) to form the
comers of the trap. Next,
nail the two remaining pieces of
both the short (C) and long (D)
wood to the ends of the four
upright pieces to complete the
basic trap framework.
Drill holes the same diameter
(0.3 cm) as the stiff wire (F)
used for the door in the piece
of wood (A) to act as "seats"
for the door frame. Drill
these holes 1.5 cm deep. Nail
the four long pieces of screen
(D) to the sides, bottom and
top of the trap and nail the
sguare piece (E) to the rear end
to enclose all but the front of
the trap in screening.
Bend the ends of two pieces of
wire (H) over about 2 cm from
each end. Bend the ends of the
other two pieces (H) around the
first two pieces to form a
square framework. Fold two
edges of the wire screen (I)
around two sides of the frame
-126
=^N
23
50
Door
Screen (I)
Guide (F)
_ Wood
Frame
and "sew" the screen together
with wire .
Bend the piece of wire (F) to a
"U" shape. Slip the ends of
this wire through the open ends
of the wires in the door frame.
The door should slide up and
down easily with the U-shaped
wire acting as a guide. Next,
imbed the ends of the "U" into
the holes in the front piece
(A) of the wooden frame. They
may be glued in place if neces-
sary. When the door slides
down the guide, it should
effectively block the entrance
of the trap with little or no
gap.
Front View
"U" Tack
(J)
Side View
Tack the end of the piece of
wire (G) to the rear of the cage
with a "U" tack (J) and bend
it down until it touches the top
of the door frame. Bend the
remaining end around the wire
(F) to help stabilize and sup-
port the door frame.
-129-
(3) Trip
'If
19
*:^\
"U" Tacks .)
4
T
5
Side View
12 H
Bend up 5 cm of the wire (K) to
a right (90°) angle and bend 1.0
cm of the other end of the wire
to a right angle in the opposite
direction. Tack the wire to
the wood (M) with the three "U"
tacks (L) as near to one of the
12 cm edges as possible.
C. Notes
(i) To use the Potter bird trap, place it in a place where the desired type
of bird is known to congregate. It may be necessary to anchor the trap in some
manner in order to prevent it from being disturbed. The trap is set by pulling
the sliding door all the way up and placing the trip inside the trap at such an
angle that, when the door is lowered, the lower cross wire of the door rests on
the bent portion of the trip wire. The slight pressure of the door on the trip
should both hold the door up (and open) and keep the trip at a slight angle.
Finally, bait the trap with a suitable attractant for the particular type of birds
desired. A bird entering the trap for the bait will hop on the wooden part of the
trip causing the wire to be pulled out from under the door which will drop down in
place and trap the bird.
(ii) This trap, unlike others, doesn't reguire the hunter to hide in a blind
waiting for a bird to enter:.
(iii) The dimensions of thiis trap can be altered according to the size of the
birds being trapped. Also, the trap may be baited in such a way as to attract
other animals besides birds..
-130-
C3. Snare
(1) Handle
(2) Cord
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Handle
(2) Cord
b. Construction
(1) Handle
r-
50
(2) Cord
(H
Qll I tems Required
1 Wooden Rod (A)
-*+*■
35
D
Eyed Screws (B)
Insulated Copper Wire (C)
Washer (D)
"U" Tack (E)
-4*-15-*l
Long
End
Short
End
Dimensions
100 cm long, 2 cm
diameter
1 cm diameter opening
250 cm long, 0.3 cm
diameter
3 cm diameter
1 cm long
Screw one eyed screw (B) 15 cm
from the end of the wooden rod
(A) and screw the second screw
(B) 50 cm from the other end.
Tie the cord (C) securely to
the rod at a point approximately
10 - 15 cm from the end. The
short end should be at least
10 cm long as it will be used
again to be tied to the long end.
Long End
x:
U-Shaped
Tack (E)
Run the long end of the cord up
to the end of the rod and form
a loop. Hold the loop in
place with a U-shaped tack (E) .
-131-
^
Tie Ends Here
Long End
Long End
c. Notes
At the end of the loop, begin
wrapping the long end of the
cord tightly around the rod
until the short end has been
reached. At that point, tie
the long and short ends securely.
Extend the long end through the
loop and then extend it back to
form the snare. The long end
is kept in position by extend-
ing the ends through the eyes
on the rod. When the long end
of the cord extends through
the second eyed screw, tie the
large metal washer (D) to it to
make a pull ring.
(i) Use the snare to capture snakes, lizards, and other small animals which are
difficult or dangerous to capture by hand. The loop must be placed over the
animal's head, then pulled tight to hold it fast.
(ii) Bamboo or other materials may be used instead of wood for the rod. Rope
can be used instead of insulated wire, but the wire is better since it is stiff
and this helps keep the snare loop open instead of hanging limp.
-132-
C4. Reptile Hook
(2) Fixed
Jaws
(1) Handle
(3) Movable
Jaws
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Handle
(2) Fixed Jaws
(3) Movable Jaw
Qll Items Required
1 Wooden Dowel (A)
1 Nail (B)
2 Eyed Screws (C)
Sheet Metal (D)
Tape (E)
Sheet Metal (F)
Spring (G)
Steel Wire (H)
Washer (I)
Bolt (J)
Wing Nut (K)
Tape (L)
Rubber Tubing (M)
Dimensions
100 cm long, 1 . 5 cm
diameter
1 . 5 cm long, about
0.2 cm diameter
2 cm long, 1 cm
diameter opening
10 cm x 6 cm x . 1 cm
About 50 cm
10 cm x 9 cm x 0.1 cm
12 cm x 0.5 cm
100 cm long
3 cm diameter
. 4 cm diameter,
2.5 cm long
0.4 cm internal
diameter
About 50 cm
7 cm long, 1 . cm
diameter
b. Construction
(1) Handle
30
40
Eyed
'Screw (C)
Nail (B)
T=~^H
Screw the two eyed screws (C)
into the wooden dowel (A) so
that the opening of the "eye"
faces the ends of the dowel.
Hamner the nail (B) into the
opposite side of the dowel at
the angle indicated.
-133-
. 4 Diameter 1 .
h-3 h
(2) Fixed Jaws
Bend-
Inner Edge
Cut a notch into the end of the
dowel nearest the nail. This
notch needs to be 3 cm deep and
about 0.15 cm wide (i.e.,
slightly wider than the sheet
metal (F) used for the movable
jaw) . Finally, drill a hole
0.4 cm in diameter 1 cm from
the end, and perpendicular to
the notch.
Cut the two fixed jaws to shape
from the sheet metal (D) . Drill
or punch a hole 0.5 cm in dia-
meter through the wide portion
of each jaw, centered, and 0.3
cm from the flat edge. Cut a
slit into each jaw about 0.7
cm long and in approximately
the position indicated. Bend
the resulting point of metal in
on one jaw and out on the other
(i.e., in opposite directions) .
To complete the jaws, cover at
least the inner edge with tape
(E) , cloth, etc., to protect
the animals being collected
from cuts.
(3) Movable Jaw
The movable jaw, made from sheet
metal (F), is identical in shape
to the fixed jaws except that
one arm is extended for 4 cm.
Three holes must be drilled or
punched in the jaw. The two
lower holes need to be 0.5 cm
in diameter while the third
need only be about 0.2 cm in
diameter. Pad the inner edge of
the movable jaw by slitting one
-134-
ft
Tape (L)
Rubber Tubing (M)
side of a 7 cm long piece of
rubber tubing (M) , and slipping
it over the edge of the jaw.
Use tape (L) to hold the tubing
in place. Alternatively, the
jaw may simply be padded with
cloth and tape or other mater-
ials.
Bent Point
yBoM (J)
Wing Nut (K)
Top View
Bent Point
Attach
Spring (G)'
Here
Attach
Wire (H) Here
Side View
Attach the jaws to the handle
in this order: Run the bolt (J)
through one fixed jaw, halfway
through the handle, through the
middle hole of the movable jaw,
through the rest of the handle
and through the second fixed
jaw. Screw on the wing nut (K)
to secure the whole assembly.
Be certain that the "bent
points" of the fixed jaws both
point in, rather than out. Fix
tension on the wing nut such
that the jaws are not loose,
but the movable jaw still can
be freely moved. The "bent
points" of the fixed jaws pre-
vent them from rotating back-
wards about the bolt.
Next, attach the steel wire (H)
to the upper hole of the movable
jaw and run the free end through
both eyed screws (C) . Fasten
the free end to the washer (I) .
Fasten one end of the spring (G)
to the remaining hole in the
-135-
movable jaw, stretch out the
spring, and fasten the free end
to the nail (6) . The movable
jaw should be held wide open,
and the reptile hook is ready
for use. [Note: If a spring
of the correct size and tension
is not available, one can
easily be made by winding steel
wire (about 0.08 cm diameter)
around a pencil or other cylin-
drical rod. ]
Notes
(i) Other materials such as bamboo, broom handles, etc., may be used for the
handle. Also, a strong rubber band may be substituted for the spring.
(ii) If the sheet metal used for the jaws is sufficiently stiff and strong,
only one fixed jaw may be reguired instead of two.
-136-
D, PLANT COLLECTING APPARATUS
Dl . Vasculum
(3) Door
(2) Top
(1) Body
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Body
(2) Top
(3) Door
Qu I tems Required
1 Tin Can (A)
1 Rope (B)
1 Tin Sheet (C)
1 Tin Sheet (D)
1 Wood Dowel (E)
1 Nail (F)
Dimensions
4 liter capacity
(about 18 cm long by
15 cm diameter) or
larger
50 cm x 0.5 cm
15 cm diameter, 0.05
cm thick
14 cm x 8 cm x 0.05 cm
2 . 5 cm long, 2 . 5 cm
diameter
3 cm long, . 3 cm
diameter
-137-
b. Construction
(1) Body
Use a hacksaw to make two slits
in the side of the can (A) .
Each slit is 6.5 cm wide. The
first slit is 5.5 cm from the
bottom of the can, and the
second slit is 7.0 cm from the
first. Also, around the top
edge (the top being the end
which has been removed) make a
series of slits approximately
2 cm deep and 2 cm apart.
Remove Shaded Portion
After these initial slits have
been made, remove part of the
can between the two slits
leaving about 1.5 cm of metal
to either side of the opening.
Further, bend down all of the
flaps made in the top edge of
the can except for three,
specifically those three which
are 90°, 180°, and 270° from a
point directly above the door.
Step 1
Step 2
Detail of
Door Guides
To make the guides for the door,
first bend the 1.5 cm flaps out
until they touch the can, then
double them over so that the
door will slide between them
without falling out. This
second step is best done by
holding the door in place and
bending the flaps over it.
Finally, drill or punch two
holes (about 1 cm diameter) in
-138-
(2) Top
Bent Over Flap
one side of the can. Pass an
end of the rope (B) through
each hole and knot the ends
inside the can so that the
rope cannot pull out.
Merely cut out a circular piece
of tin sheet (C) the same size
as the end of the can. Place
this piece on top of the bent
down flaps and bend down the
remaining three flaps. The top
should slide in and out easily.
(3) Door
Slits
w
Handle
Roll the sheet metal (D) slightly
until the slight curvature con-
forms to the side of the can.
Make two slits 2 cm deep and 2
cm wide in one end, and bend
the flap down. Make the door
handle from the dowel (E) and
nail (F) . Simply drive the
nail through the end of the
dowel and through the door it-
self. Flatten the point of the
nail like a rivet to hold the
handle in place. When finished,
the door should slide easily
between the guides on the side
of the can. The flap on the
end of the door serves to help
hold down the top as well as
preventing the top from sliding
out by accident.
-139-
c. Notes
(i) The vasculum is used to keep plant materials from excessively drying out
when collecting in the field. Put the plants in the vasculum through the door
when collecting, and remove them by removing the top.
(ii) If large tin cans with replacable lids are available, these will do nicely
and will eliminate the need for cutting out the door and lid. Also, see VII/A2
(Sterilizer) for an alternate method of making the lid for a tin can of this type.
D2(l), Plant Press (Field Type)
-140-
(1) Plates
(2) Rubber Straps
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Plates
(2) Rubber Straps
b. Construction
(1) Plates
(2) Rubber Straps
Qtl Items Required
2 Wood (or Plywood) (A)
2 Heavy Rubber Bands (B)
Cut Strips
Inner Tube
Dimensions
25 cm x 20 cm x
1.0 cm
2.5 cm wide, 15 cm
diameter
Cut the wood (A) to size.
Smaller or larger sizes may be
made according to personal pre-
ference .
Cut the rubber straps (B) from
old automobile tire inner tubes.
Section of
Inner Tube
-141-
c. Notes
(i) Use the field plant press to hold plant materials until they can be returned
to the laboratory. Place the plants between several layers of newspaper, and
place the newspapers between the press plates. Wrap the rubber straps around the
plates and newspapers to hold them securely until they are returned to the labor-
atory.
(ii) Lengths of rope or belt-like straps can be used to tighten the press rather
than the rubber straps.
-142-
D2 (2) . Plant Press (Laboratory Type)
(3) Tightening Handle
2 ) U tjppe.
r Plate
Lower Plate
a. Materials Reguired
Components
(1) Lower Plate
(2) Upper Plate
(3) Tightening
Handles
b. Construction
(1) Lower Plate
Qu I tems Required
1 Plywood (A)
2 Bolts (B)
1 Plywood (C)
2 Wood (D)
2 Nuts (E)
2 Wood (F)
2 Washers (G)
Dimensions
25 cm x 20 cm x 1.25
cm
15 cm long, 0.7 cm
diameter
25 cm x 20 cm x 1.25
cm
15 cmx 1.75 cm x
1.75 cm
. 7 cm inside dia-
meter
15 cm x 1.75 cm x
1.75 cm
1 cm inside diameter,
2 cm outside diameter
Drill a hole through each end
of the plywood (A) (regular
wood may be used as well) 2 cm
from the end and centered. The
holes should be . 8 cm in dia-
meter. Pass the bolts (B)
through these holes as far as
they will go.
-143-
(2) Upper Plate
1.2
Nail or glue the two wood strips
(D) to the plywood(C) 1.2 cm from
the ends and parallel to the
edge. Drill a hole 0.8 cm in
diameter through the wood strip
and plywood at each end. Put
the upper plate into position
by running the two bolts (B)
in the lower plate through the
holes in it (the upper plate) .
Top View
M
B
25
Side View
(3) Tightening Handlefe
Bolt (B)
Handle (F)
Washer
Upper
Plate (C)"
Lower
Plate (A)
-L
I
Nut (E)
-Wood Strip (D)
I
' — 1^>
Side View
Notes
Drill a hole 0.8 cm in diameter
through the center of each
strip of wood (F) . Then, place
a nut (E) directly over the
hole in the wood and give it a
sharp rap with a hamner. Re-
move the nut from the depression
thus formed, put some epoxy
resin cement in the depression
and glue the nut in place in
the depression. When the glue
has hardened, place a washer
(G) over each bolt, and screw
on the tightening handles. The
laboratory plant press is now
ready for use.
(i) To use the laboratory plant press, place collected specimens between several
layers of newspaper and tighten the two plates of the press together very tightly.
Leave the plants in the press until they are thoroughly dried out.
-144-
V. AQUARIA AND TERRARIA
A. CLASSROOM DEMONSTRATION AQUARIA
This is the most common type of aquarium and is used for student observation of
the various relationships demonstrated by an ecosystem. Therefore, this type of
aquarium is characterized by the use of glass.
B. BREEDING AQUARIUM
This is used to provide places for maintaining and growing a supply of aquatic
organisms. Since the purpose is not primarily that of student observation, glass
sides are not necessary.
C. TEMPORARY AQUARIUM
This is useful for short-term storage of fish and aquatic plants. Depending on
the materials used, the temporary aquarium will suffice to hold plants and animals for
approximately one to seven days, or much longer if care is taken in its construction.
D . TERRARIA
Any container in which plants can be grown will serve as a terrarium. The chief
criterion for such a structure is that it be large enough to give the desired plants
room to grow without crowding.
-145-
A. CLASSROOM DEMONSTRATION AQUARIA
Al . Quickly Made Demonstration Aquarium
(1) Jar
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Jar
b. Construction
(1) Jar
Qu I tems Required
1 Glass Jar (A)
Dimensions
2 liters or larger
Simply clean out the jar (A) ,
add water and fish. Sand and
small plants may also be added.
c. Notes
(i) The number and size of fish which can be kept in a non-aerated aquarium
varies, but a general rule is at least 2 liters of water per each centimeter of
fish. Remember that the amount of oxygen available to the fish depends on the
surface area of the water so that jars with narrow necks should be filled only
to the point where the neck begins to narrow.
(ii) This or any aquarium may be covered to prevent fish from jumpinq out, but
remember to allow some air flow under the cover to insure that oxygen will dissolve
from the air into the water.
-146-
A2 . Jug or Carboy Aquarii
(1) Jug
a. Materials Required
Components
( i ) Jug
b. Construction
( i ) Jug
Qu
Items Required
Glass Jug or Carboy (A)
Dimensions
3-4 liters or larqer
Remove the top portion of a
jug or carboy (A) by either
method described under item
CHEM/I/F2.
Remove
c. Notes
(i) When the neck is removed, add water, sand, plants and fish. Remember,
at least 2 liters of water is required for each centimeter of fish.
-147-
B. BREEDING AQUARIUM
Bl. Breeding Aquarium
.(1) Drum
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Drum
b. Construction
(1) Drum
Qu I tems Required
1 Oil Drum (A)
Dimensions
100 liters or larger
Remove the top from a large
oil drum (A) or any similar
container. Clean the drum
thoroughly before adding water,
plants, sand and fish.
c. Notes
(i) Since many fish breed best or only when plants are present in the aquarium,
a light source may have to be placed over the top of the drum to provide for
healthy plants.
(ii) Most fish are extremely sensitive to water containing a high concentration
of metallic ions, so the drum should be lined with a plastic bag, or the inside
painted with non-leaded paint or other non-toxic coating.
-14E
C. TEMPORARY AQUARIUM
CI. Plastic Bag Aquarium
(3) Tape
(2) Plastic Bag
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Can
(2) Plastic Bag
(3) Tape
b. Construction
(1) Can
Qu I tems Required
1 Rectangular Tin Can (A)
1 Plastic Bag (or
Sheeting) (B)
2 Masking Tape (C)
2 Masking Tape (D)
Dimensions
4 liter capacity or
larger (at least 10
cm x 15 cm x 2 5 cm)
50 cm x 60 cm
30 cm
20 cm
Cut the top and one side out of
a four liter rectangular tin
can (A) leaving about 1.5 cm of
metal remaining to provide
rigidity. Such cans can easily
be cut with metal snips or
shears. Begin each hole by
-149-
15
1.5
Top View
Side View
holding the can firmly, placing
the edge of a screwdriver
against the side, and striking
the screwdriver sharply with a
hammer. The sharp edges of the
metal should be taped to pre-
vent them from cutting the
plastic.
(2) Plastic Bag
Place Plastic
(B) in Can
Fill With
Water
Use a large clear plastic bag
or piece of plastic sheeting
(B) . Carefully place the
middle of the plastic on the
bottom of the inside of the
can (A) and spread the plastic
out so it fills up tfie inside.
Let the excess plastic extend
above the can. Next, carefully
pour water into the center of
the plastic until the can is
filled to the level desired.
(3) Tape
Use the four pieces of masking
tape (C,D) that hold down the
excess plastic sheeting. Water-
proof plastic tape is recom-
mended instead of masking tape
if it is available.
-150-
c. Notes
(i) With this design, fish and other aquatic organisms can be easily viewed
while the three sides of the can provide excellent rigidity. Gravel, plants,
rocks, etc., may be placed in the aquarium to provide a more natural environment.
Dl. Simple Terrarium
-151-
D. TERRARIA
(1) Jar
(2) cc
' (3) Stand
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Jar
(2) Cover
(3) Stand
b. Construction
(1) Jar
(2) Cover
(3) Stand
q u Items Required
1 Glass Jar (A)
1 Plastic Sheetinq (B)
1 Adhesive Tape (C)
1 Cardboard Box (D)
Dimensions
4 liters or larger
Approximately 12 cm
diameter
40 cm lonq
15 cm x 15 cm x 10 cm
Select a wide-mouthed qlass
jar (A) , the larger the jar and
the wider the mouth, the better.
Tape a circular piece of
plastic sheeting (B) over the
mouth of the jar with the tape
(C) to make it fairly airtight.
Cut two semicircular pieces
from the cardboard box (D) so
the terrarium can be set on it
without rolling off.
-152-
C. Notes
(i) Fill the bottom of the terrarium with rich soil and add plants or seeds.
The plastic cover will prevent moisture loss and permit some gas exchange. The
jar lid may be used instead, but it has a tendency to rust.
(ii) More durable stands made from metal or wood may be constructed if desired.
-153-
D2 . Glass Terrarium
(3) Sides
(1) Base
(2) Plaster of
Paris
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Base
(2) Plaster of Paris
(3) Sides
Qu Items Required
1 Tin Can (A)
— Plaster of Paris (B)
b. Construction
(1) Base
2
Glass Plates (C)
Glass Plates (D)
Plastic Sheet (E)
Tape (F)
Dimensions
32 cm x 22 cm x 5 cm
30 cm x 20 cm x 0.3
cm
20 cmx 20 cm x 0.3
cm
35 cm x 25 cm
Cut the base from a rectanqular
tin can (A) to the approximate
dimensions qiven. Adequate
bases can also be made from
wood, cardboard, sheet metal,
etc.
-154-
(2) Plaster of Paris
(3) Sides
Plaster of
Paris (B)
Partial Cross-Section
c. Notes
Mix about 1 liter of dry plaster
of Paris (B) with enough water
to make it workable but stiff.
Spread the plaster of Paris (B)
thickly around the sides of the
base (A) . Set the plates of
glass (C,D) in the plaster while
it is wet. Tape the corners
where the glass plates come to-
gether with tape (F) to hold
the sides upright while the
plaster is drying. Cover the
terrarium with the plastic
sheet (E) when plants are kept
in it to prevent moisture loss.
(i) The dimensions of this terrarium may be varied in order to meet special
needs or to fit materials available.
(ii) Plants may be placed in the terrarium in pots or planted in soil. If
they are planted in soil, be certain that the plaster used is impervious to water.
D3 . Plant Growth Chamber
(3) Plastic
Cover
(2) Fi
(1) B £
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Base
q u Items Required
1 Wood (A)
2 Wood (B)
2 Wood (C)
Dimensions
25 cm x 25 cm x 2 cm
27 cmx5 cmx 1.0
cm
25 cmx 5 cmx 1.0
cm
(2) Frame
2 Soft Wire (D)
2 Soft Wire (E)
4 Wire (F)
75 cm long, 0.2 cm
diameter
25 cm long, 0.2 cm
diameter
10 cm long, 0.1 cm
diameter
(3) Plastic Cover
Transparent Plastic
Sheeting (G)
30 cm x 30 cm
Tape (H)
-15€
b. Construction
(1) Base
Nail or glue the four rectangu-
lar pieces of wood (B,C) to the
square piece (A) . Drill four
holes, 0.2 cm diameter, in the
square piece (A) , one hole near
each corner of the wood.
Base
(2) Frame
h~ 25 — H
Bind This
Joint
with Wire
Bend the two longest pieces of
soft wire (D) into a "U" shape,
and insert the ends into the
holes in the base. Fasten the
shorter pieces of soft wire (E)
to the frame by bending about
1 cm of each end around the
bends in the longer wires (D) .
Bind the joints together with
the short, thinner wires (F) .
Detail
-157-
(3) Plastic Cover
n
Cut a piece of transparent
plastic sheeting (G) to the
pattern shown or use five
separate pieces of sheeting.
Whether using the single or
separate sheets, cover the frame
with plastic and seal the joints
between the sheeting with tape
(H) . Leave one side of the
sheeting loose to be used as a
"door" in order to easily
remove the plants.
c. Notes
(i) Plants may be placed in the chamber in pots or soil may be placed in the
base in order to hold the plants.
(ii) Dimensions for the plant growth chamber may be altered in any way depending
upon the purposes to which it will be put. Especially, the base needs to have
more depth than 3 cm if plants are to be grown in soil rather than pots.
VI. CAGES
A. GLASS CAGE S
These cages, made wholly or largely of gla<§<89 be used to house a large variety
of small animals, from insects to small mammals.
B. WOODEN CAGE S
Two wooden cages are offered, one to house insects and the other designed for small
mamals or birds .Both are somewhat more elaborate and permanent than their eguivalent
glass cages.
C. TEMPERATURE CONTROLLED CA GES
The vivarium and egg incubator are heated with light bulbs to serve the needs of
animals and eggs which require relatively higher temperatures to live or hatch,
respectively. Use a thermostat to control the internal temperature of heated cages
and incubators, especially in classrooms which are not themselves thermostatically
temperature controlled.
-15<
A. GLASS CAGES
Al . Glass Jar Cag e
-(2) Top
(1) Jar
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Jar
(2) Top
b. Constructi on
(1) Jar
(2) Top
Qu I tems Required
1 Glass Jar (A)
1 Glass Jar Top (B)
1 Wire Screening (C)
Dimensions
4 liters capacity
or larger
To fit jar
Same diameter as jar
top
Thoroughly clean the large
glass jar (A) . Select one with
as large a mouth as possible.
Cut out a circular piece from
the metal top (B) of the glass
jar. The diameter of the hole
in the top should be about 1
cm less than that of the top
itself.
-160-
Next, cut out a circular piece
of wire screen (C) the same
diameter as the top. Insert
this wire screen inside the
top and glue it in place if it
does not stay in place by itself.
C. Notes
(i) If the wire screening is cut to a diameter very slightly larger than that
of the metal top, it will tend to stay in place within the top, and doesn't need
to be cemented. In fact, once the top is screwed to the jar, the screen will be
held tightly between the glass and top, and no cement is necessary.
(ii) Grass, sand, soil, twigs, etc., can be added to this cage depending on
what type of animal is to be kept. If small amphibians are housed in it, lay it
on its side and partially fill it with water. Most amphibians are best housed in
shallow aquaria, however.
-161-
A2. Jar Cage Shelf *
(2) Rests
(1) Frame
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Frame
(2) Rests
b. Construction
(1) Frame
Wood (C).
Plywood (B)
Plywood (A)
q u Items Required
1 Plywood (A)
2 Plywood (B)
2 Wood (C)
1 Wood (D)
1 Wood (E)
Dimensions
18 cm x 47 cm x 1.0
cm
18 cm x 15 cm x 1.0
cm
4 cm x 47 cm x 1.0 cm
4 cm x 45 cm x 1.0 cm
2 cm x 47 cm x 1.0 cm
Nail or screw the two small
pieces of plywood (B) to the
ends of the large piece (A).
Nail one of the wood strips (C)
to the back with the lower edge
even with the back. Screw the
other strip (C) to the top to
act as a carrying handle.
Back View
* Adapted from Richard E. Barthelemy, e t . al . , Innovations in Equipment and Techniques
for the Biology Teaching Laboratory, (Boston: D. C. Heath, 1964), p 28.
-162-
(2) Rests
7 Diameter
4 5
Wood Strip (D)
6 Diameter
47
Wood Strip (E)
Wooden rests are needed to pre-
vent the jar cages from rolling.
Cut four arcs spaced 10 cm on
center from the wide piece of
wood (D) . The diameter of the
arcs should be the same as that
of the body of the jar cages
(in this description, the jars
used had a body diameter of
7 cm and a neck diameter of
6 cm) .
' i
Side View
(Cross-section)
•Jar
Similarly, cut four arcs of
the same diameter as the neck
of the bottle (in this case,
6 cm) from the narrow strip
(E) , also 10 cm on center. Nail
the wide strip (D) to the sides
and base about 3 cm from the
back strip. Nail the narrow
strip (E) to the front with its
lower edge even with the base.
C. Notes
(i) Use this item as a storage rack for several jar cages (VI/A1) . The handle
permits several cages to be carried with little disturbance.
(ii) All dimensions given here are subject to change depending on the size,
shape, and number of jar cages to be stored.
-163-
A3 . Cockroach Cage *
(1) Cage
(2) Food Container
' (3) Watering Device
a. Materials Reguired
Components
(1) Cage
(2) Food Container
b. Construction
(1) Cage
(2) Food Container
(3) Watering Device
Items Reguired
Glass Jar Cage
(VI /Al) (A)
Jar Top (B)
(3) Watering Device 1 Glass Vial (C)
1 Cotton (D)
Dimensions
At least 1.0 liter
capacity
2-3 cm diameter,
1 cm deep
4 cm long, 2 cm
diameter
Small plug
Use the Glass Jar Cage (VI/A1)
(A) as is.
A small jar top (B) will hold
the small amount of food
necessary for small insects
like cockroaches.
Insert the cotton plug (D) into
the open end of the vial (C)
containing a small amount of
water. The cotton will stay
* Adapted from Richard E. Barthelemy, et . al . , Innovations in Eguipment and Technigues
for the Biology Teaching Laboratory, (Boston: D. C. Heath, 1964), p 22-23.
-164-
damp and provide water for the
insects .
c. Notes
(i) Ifdesired, the upper portion of the jar can be coated with talcum powder
to prevent the insects from crawling out when the jar is open.
(ii) Providing small objects which the insects can climb on or conceal them-
selves in is recommended.
-165-
A4 . Housefly Cage *
(1) Cage
(2) Watering Device
(3) Food Container
(4) Culture Medium
a. Materials Reguired
Components
( 1 ) Cage
(2) Watering Device
(3) Food Container
(4) Culture Medium
b. Construction
(1) Cage
(2) Water Device
Qu I tems Required
1 Glass Jar Cage
{ VI/A1) (A)
1 Glass Jar (B)
1 Absorbent Paper (C)
1 Jar Top (D)
1 Culture Medium (E)
Dimensions
4 liters or larger
Approximately 25 ml
Approximately 10 cm x
3 cm
4 cm long, 2 cm
diameter
50 ml or enough to
fill the cage to a
depth of approximately
2 cm
Use the Glass Jar Cage (VI/A1)
(A) as is. Be sure to select a
glass jar with as wide a mouth
as possible.
This is merely a small glass
jar (B) or other small container
which holds a "wick" of absor-
bent paper (C) . Water in the
jar will soak into the paper
*Adapted from Richard E. Barthelemy, et . al., Innovations in Equipment and Technigues
in the Biology Teaching Laboratory, (Boston: D. C. Heath, 1964), p 23.
-166-
where it can be obtained by
flies and other flying insects.
(3) Food Container A small jar top (D) will suffice
as a container for food for
the flies.
(4) Culture Medium This is a growth medium (E)
for the insect larvae, and
should contain all the necessary
growth ingredients .
c. Notes
(i) For suitable growth media for houseflies , see the following BSCS publica-
tions: Barthelemy et . al.. Innovations in Equipment and Techniques for the
Biology Teaching Laboratory ; and Glenn, The Complementarity of Structure and
Function (BSCS Laboratory Block) .
-167-
A5. Cylinder Cage
(1) Cylinder Cage
a. Materials Reguired
Components
(1) Cylinder Cage
b. Construction
(1) Cylinder Cage
c. Notes
q u Items Reguired
1 Potted Plant (A)
1 Lamp Chimney (B)
1 Cloth Mesh (C)
1 Rubber Band (D)
Dimensions
8 cm diameter,
30 cm long
10 cm diameter
This is a quickly made cage.
Simply put the lamp chimney
(B) or other large diameter
glass tube over the potted
plant (A) . Add the insects,
and cover the top with cloth
mesh (C) or gauze held in place
with the rubber band (D) .
(i) This is a good, simple cage in which to rear insects which feed on plants.
A6. Jar Wormery
-168-
(1) Jar
(2) Medium
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Jar
(2) Medium
b. Construction
(1) Jar
(2) Medium
Qu I tems Required
Glass Jar (A)
Sand (B)
Leaf Mold (C)
Loam (D)
Dimensions
1-4 liters
1/4-1 liter
1/4-1 liter
1/4-1 liter
Thoroughly clean the glass
jar (A) .
Each layer of the medium should
have a volume approximately
one fourth that of the total
for the jar. The bottom layer
is sand (B) , the middle is
leaf mold (C) , and the top
layer is loam (D) .
c. Notes
(i) Place the worms in the wormery along with some dead leaves, lettuce,
carrots, etc. Keep the contents damp.
-169-
A7 . Jar Cage
Q
(2) Water Bottle
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Jar
(2) Water Bottle
Qu I tems Required
1 Large Glass Jar (A)
1 Glass Tube (B)
1 Vial (C)
1 1-Hole Stopper (D)
b. Construction
(1) Jar
(1) Jar
Dimensions
4 liter capacity
25 cm long, . 5
cm outside diameter
50-100 ml capacity
To fit vial
Use a large capacity glass
jar (A) with a metal or plastic
lid. Punch several holes in
the lid for ventilation. Make
certain one of the holes is
slightly larger in diameter
than the glass tube (B) used
in the water bottle.
-170-
(2) Water Bottle Heat the glass tube (B) about
7 cm from one end and make a
slight bend in it (about 30°).
Fire polish this end until the
opening constricts very slightly.
Insert the other end of the
==5^F30°
Glass Tube (B) f" ZL n re . tube through the one-hole
Polish
stopper (D), and plug the vial
(C) with the stopper. Insert
the completed water bottle
through a hole in the lid of
the jar. Be sure the tip of
the glass tube is low enough for
the animals to reach.
c. Notes
(i) This cage is designed for small mammals like mice or gerbils. Spread a
layer of sawdust or newspaper shreds on the bottom to absorb wastes. Fill the
water bottle and the animals soon learn to lick water from the end of the tube.
Pieces of food can be dropped through the holes in the lid.
(ii) This cage is meant to be a temporary, not permanent, container for small
mammals. Large jars of 4 liter capacity may be obtained from restaurants and
other places which buy food in large guantities.
A8 . Box Wormery
-171-
(2) Glass
(Dbc
a.
Materials Required
Components
Qu
Items
Required
(1) Box
1
Wood
(A)
2
Wood
(B)
1
Wood
(C)
(2) Glass
Window Glass (D)
Dimensions
25 cmx 25 cmxl OH
25 cm x 2 cm x 15 cm
21 cm x 2 cm x 15 cm
2 3 cm x 15 cm x
. 3 cm
b. Construction
(1) Box
With a saw, cut a qroove 1.0
cm deep and 1.0 cm from the
end of the two pieces of wood
(B) . These grooves should be
slightly wider (about 0.4 cm)
than the glass (D) used. Nail
these two pieces and the piece
(C) to the base (D) to form an
open-ended box with the two
grooves facing each other,
Insert the glass (D) into the
grooves in the sides of the
box. The box wormery is now
complete.
C. Notes
(i) Put a 5 cm deep layer of sand in the box, cover this with 5 cm of leaf
mold, and finally cover this with about 5 cm of loam. Add worms, dead leaves,
pieces of lettuce and carrots to the top. Cover the glass front with dark paper
(2) Glass
-172-
or cloth and keep the soil damp. After several days, worms and tunnels should be
visible when the paper or cloth is removed.
(ii) There is no real need for the glass plate to be removable so all the joints
between the wood and glass can be sealed with waterproof sealant (e.g., pitch,
caulk) .
(iii) If it is desired to simply raise worms rather than observe them, then the
glass may be omitted and any suitable box can be used for the wormery.
-173-
A9. Ant Observation Cage
(3) c
over
~(1) Body
(2) Support
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Body
(2) Support
(3) Cover
b. Construction
(1) Body
q u Items Required
2 Wood (A)
1 Wood (B)
2 Glass Plates (C)
6
3
Tape (D)
Tape (E)
2
Wood (F)
1
1
Wood (G)
Nail (H)
Dimensions
13 cm x 2 cm x . 7 cm
23 cm x 2 cm x . 7 cm
23 cm x 15 cm x
. 3 cm
19 cm x 2 cm
27 cm x 2 cm
7 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
1 9 cm x 2 cm x . 7 cm
4 cm long, . 3 cm
diameter
Glue, nail, screw or otherwise
fasten the two short pieces of
wood (A) to the ends of the
longer piece (B) . When the
glue has dried, place the wood
frame between the two pieces
-174-
of glass (C) forming a "sand-
. . wich". Use the six short pieces
,Glass (C)
- Bodv of ta P e (°) t0 tape each end
• Glass (C) together and use the three long
pieces of tape (E) to tape the
bottom.
Tape
(2) Support
Cut a notch 1 . 4 cm wide and
1 . cm deep into the center of
each wooden support (F) . Set
the body into place.
(3) Cover
V
Drill Hole
Detail
1
T
,..
~~^~~ n Detail
Drill a hole approximately 0.3
cm in diameter through the
middle of the piece of wood
(G) . Cut off a small portion
of each end so that the ends
are slightly tapered. This
cover should now effectively
seal the body, and the wedge
shape of the cover insures
that it need not be perfectly
accurate in order to seal the
cage. Complete the ant obser-
vation cage by sticking the
nail (H) in the hole.
-175-
c. Notes
(i) Prepare the cage for use by filling it to within 2 - 3 cm of the top with
soil. The soil should be firm, but not tightly packed. Add the ants (include a
"queen" ant), and feed them by dropping moistened sugar, bread crumbs, etc.,
through the hole in the cover. Keep the cage covered when not actually observing
the ants as this will encourage their tunneling activity.
(ii) The soil ought to be kept moist, so the cage should be taped with water-
proof tape. Taping allows the cage to be easily dismantled, cleaned and
reassembled.
(iii) Ant observation cages of different dimensions from those given here can be
made, but the basic design need not be altered.
-176-
A10. Glass Cage
(2) Glass
(1) Frame
a. Materials Requir
ed
Components
Qu
Items Required
(1) Frame
1
Plywood (A)
4
Wood (B)
a
Wood (C)
(2) Glass
32
Nails (D)
4
Glass (E)
Glass
Dimensions
30 cm x 30 cm x
1.0 cm
2 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
2 4 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
2.5 cm long
25.5 cm x 18.75 cm x
0.3 cm
25.5 cm x 25.5 cmx
0.3 cm
b . Construction
(1) Frame
Use the plywood (A) as the cage
base. Screw the four short
pieces of wood (B) to the base
from the back side of the base
so that each of their edges is
1 . cm from the edge of the
base. Nail four of the re-
maining pieces (C) to the base
(A) and uprights (B) , between
the uprights and 1 . cm from
the edge of the base.
-177-
Drill Halfway
Drill Through
(2) Glass
y
Hole
Bent Nail
7^
Side View
Drill three holes (0.2 cm in
diameter) through each of the
four remaining pieces of wood
(C) . Space the three holes
about 6 cm apart and . 5 cm
from one edge. In one of these
pieces of wood, drill two addi-
tional holes 0.2 cm in diameter.
Drill them 0.5 cm from the same
edge the other three holes are
near, but only drill them half-
way through the wood. Nail
these four pieces to the
uprights so that the holes are
parallel to the base, and the
holes must be closest to the
top edge of the wood rather
than the bottom. These three
holes serve to ventilate the
cage.
Position one of the glass
pieces (E) against the side of
the frame so that it overlaps
the edges of the frame by about
0.75 cm on all three sides.
Drive four nails (D) , two per
(D)
vertical side, into the frame
as close to the glass as
possible. Only drive them in
about halfway and remove the
,pi a _c If) glass. Bend each nail over at
right angles, and replace the
glass. The nails should over-
. lap the glass and hold it
upright against the frame.
Nail two more nails (D) above
the glass and bend them down in
a similar manner to keep the
glass side firmly in place. Be
v-" 1
-17!
careful not to break the glass.
Fasten the remaining piece of
glass (F) to the top in a
similar manner as was done with
the sides. Nail six nails (D) ,
two per side, and bend them
over to hold the glass in place.
Put two nails in the holes in
the remaining side of the frame.
These two nails should slip
easily in and out the holes
so that they can be removed and
the top glass plate removed by
sliding it out from under the
bent nails. Do not bend these
last two nails .
c. Notes
(i) This cage is designed primarily to house small reptiles (especially lizards
and snakes) and other small, non-gnawing animals. The bottom of the cage can be
filled with 1.5 - 2 cm of clean sand or gravel. Ifburrowing animals are to be
kept, build the bottom of the frame higher so that the sand or gravel may be made
deeper. Water may be provided in a jar lid and food simply dropped in from the
top.
(ii) The dimensions of this cage can easily be altered depending on the number,
size, and habits of the animals to be housed in it.
(iii) If it is so desired, a metal tray can be fashioned for the bottom of the
cage to hold the sand or gravel. This makes the cage much easier to clean as the
tray can simply be lifted out of the cage, the sand or gravel cleaned by running
it through a seive, and replacing it. The tray prevents the wood from absorbing
liquid wastes and spilled water and food. The pattern given here will fit the
cage as described above. (See illustration on next page.)
-179-
2 4
+ 2 1
24
Fold the pattern along the dotted lines to the following " '
Seal
Flange
Seal the inside corner joints with a waterproof sealant (e.g., pitch) and set the
tray in place in the bottom of the cage. The flanges should overlap the bottom
portion of the frame.
-180-
B. WOODEN CAGES
Bl, Wooden Frame Cage
(2) Door
1) Frame
(3) Screening
(Omitted for
clarity)
a. Materials Reguired
Components
(1) Frame
(2) Door
(3) Screening
On
Items Reguired
:
Wood (A)
6
Wood (B)
2
Wood (C)
2
Wood (D)
2
Wood (E)
2
Hinges (F)
4
Nails (G)
2
Rubber Bands (I
1
Wire Mesh (I)
3
Wire Mesh (J)
1
Cloth (K)
1
Rubber Band (L
Dimensions
25 cm x 25 cm x 1.0 cm
25 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
21 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
27 cm x 3 cm x 1.0 cm
19 cm x 3 cm x 1 . cm
About 3 cm x 2 cm
2 cm long
24 cm x 24 cm
26 cm x 24 cm
85 cm x 25 cm
-181-
b. Construction
(i) Frame
Wood (B)
/Wood (C)
Glue, nail, or screw four of the
long pieces of wood (B) to the
four corners of the square
piece (A) to form the uprights
of the cage. Nail the two
remaining long wooden pieces
(B) to the tops of adjacent
uprights. Then, nail the two
short pieces (C) into place to
complete the basic cage frame.
(2) Door
-Hinge (F)
Glue, nail, or screw the short
pieces of wood (E) between the
long pieces (D) to form the
frame for the door. Attach two
small hinges (F) to the back
of the door.
-182-
Front View
Frame
Nail (G)
Door
Nail (G)
Rubber Band (H)
Next, fasten the door to the
frame by use of the two hinges.
To keep the door shut, hammer
nails (G) at both top and
bottom of the door and frame.
When the door is shut, wrap a
strong rubber band (H) around
each set of nails to keep the
door shut.
Detail
(3) Screening
f
:> * * t 1 t .
Side View
F r ame
Screen (J)
Tacks
Attach the three pieces of
screening (J) (cloth mesh may
also be used) to the three
sides and the fourth (I) to the
top of the frame by gluing
or tacking them in place.
Liberal use of glue helps seal
the joint between the screen
and wood, especially if cloth
mesh is used instead of wire
mesh.
-183-
Sew Here
5 (circumference)
Sew the piece of cloth (K) along
the short (25 cm) edge to make
a kind of tube or "sleeve".
Then, glue one end all around
the inside edge of the door,
making certain there are no
gaps in the glue seam.
Frame
Detail
' ■ * ■ ■ ■ »---
Cloth Sleeve (K)
'Glue
Rubber Band (L)
■ »«■■■■-
^-Cloth
Sleeve (K)
To complete the cage, close
and latch the door, twist the
protruding end of the cloth
tube tight, and close it off
with the rubber band, (L) .
Side View
c. Notes
(i) The door can be opened to allow the cage to be cleaned, rearranged, etc.
However, when the cage contains insects, items such as food, water, and the
insects themselves can be put into and taken out of the cage by undoing the rubber
band, slipping one hand through the cloth sleeve into the cage, and holding the
cloth tightly around the arm in the sleeve with the other hand; this method pre-
vents the insects from escaping.
-184-
(ii) See insect cages VI/A3 and VI/A4 for making watering and feeding devices
for insects.
(iii) Since cloth is used for the sleeve and may be used for the sides, keep
only insects or other small animals which are unable to chew their way through
cloth in this cage.
B2, Wire Cage
-185-
(5) Water .
Bottle
(1) Frame
(4) Wire Mesh (Omitted
for clarity)
-(3) dc
' (2) Tray
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Frame
(2) Tray
(3) Door
(4) Wire Mesh
(5) Water Bottle
4
4
3
4
q u Items Required
1 Plywood (A)
Wood (B)
Wood (C)
Wood (D)
Wood (E)
Sheet Metal
2
Wood (G)
2
Wood (H)
1
Wire Mesh
(I)
6
Nails (J)
Wire Mesh
(K)
Wire Mesh
(L)
Wire Mesh
(M)
Vial (N)
1-Hole Stopper (0)
Dimensions
25 cm x 30 cm x
0.5 cm
20 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
21 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
26 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
16 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
30 cm x 30 cm x
0.05 cm
2 8 cm x 3 cm x 1.0 cm
18 cm x 3 cm x 1.0 cm
2 8 cm xl8 cm
2.5 cm long
23 cm x 62 cm
2 3 cm x 28 cm
20 cm x 26 cm
50-100 ml capacity
To fit vial
-186-
1 Glass Tube (P)
1 Stiff Wire (Q)
b. Construction
(1) Frame
10 cm long, 0.7 cm
outside diameter, 0.5
cm inside diameter
About 2 cm long
Nail or screw the four
20 cm pieces of wood (B)
onto the four corners of
the piece of plywood (A)
used as the base. Make
certain they are even
with the edges of the
base. Next, nail the
four 21 cm pieces (C)
20 into position between
the. upright pieces, two
at each side of the cage.
Nail the lower ones to
both the base and up-
rights. Nail the three
26 cm pieces (D) between
the uprights, one at the
top front, and two in
the rear, top and bottom.
Finally, nail the four
16 cm pieces (E) into
position at the two back
corners of the cage, one
on each side of each
upright .
-187-
(2) Tray
24
2 r*-
H
26
Cut the sheet metal (F) to the
given pattern. Bend up the
sides along the dotted lines
and bend down the flange at the
front. Seal the corners with a
waterproof sealant (e.g., pitch)
The tray should slide easily
into the cage and protrude from
the front for 1.0 cm.
Seal
3) Door
0.5
Make the door from the four
pieces of wood (G,H) by using
half-lap joints. This simply
involves cutting away half the
piece of wood where the two
pieces to be joined overlap.
Mesh (I)
Nail the wire mesh (I) to the
back of the door making certain
that it covers all wood portions
completely to discourage
gnawing animals like mice. If
possible, use mesh with openings
about 0.5 cm sguare rather than
regular wire screening that is
used in house screens.
Mesh (I)
Frame"
i J-
t
(4) Wire Mesh
T
IB
1
26
Door
■t
\
iBent
•Nail (J)
Tray (F) "Straight
Nail (J)
Front View
•K"
£>'
Mesh (K)
To form a holder for the door,
first hammer two nails (J)
into the front of the frame at
a level even with the top of
the tray. Drive, them in
1 - 1 . 5 cm but do not bend them.
Set the door on these two nails
and be certain that it com-
pletely covers the opening.
Nail two nails (J) on each side
of the door as close to it as
possible and bend them over so
that they hold the door in an
upright position. The door
should slide easily in and out
of position. Remove the door
while completing the cage con-
struction .
Fold the long piece of wire
mesh (K) (again, use the . 5 cm
sguare size if possible) to the
shape shown. Then, nail the
20 cm piece (M) into position
to seal off the rear of the
cage. Next, nail the folded
piece (K) into position so that
-189-
m
y Side and
A Bottom Mesh (K)
r
Top Mesh (L)
Tray (F)
/z
m
Back
Mesh (M)
V'Ss.sSSS Z2 7ZZZ Z 2 ZZ ' ■> ZZZZZZZZZZZZ2ZZZL
Cross Section View
the sidepieces cover the sides
of the cage completely. The
bottom of the screen will be
2 cm above the floor of the
cage (actually, it will be
level with the top edge of the
tray) . Properly done, wire
mesh should cover the inside
of the cage so that no wood is
exposed. Finally, nail the
remaining piece of mesh (L)
onto the top of the cage.
(5) Water Bottle
Fire Polish
Vial (N)
Stopper (0)
Tube (P)
Begin the water bottle by
bending the glass tube (P) in
the middle to about a 45° angle.
Fire polish one end until the
opening constricts very slightly.
Insert the other end of the
tube into the stopper (0) .
Fill the vial (N) with water
and seal the opening with the
stopper.
When the vial is upside down
water should flow down into
the tube and stop at the end.
One may have to tap the tube
lightly with a finger to break
up air bubbles in the tube.
-190-
Hanger (Q)
(Vial not shown
for clarity)
To make a hanger for the water
bottle, use the piece of stiff
wire (Q) . Twist the wire
around the stopper, then bend
the loose ends as shown. The
water bottle can then be hung
on the outside of the cage with
the glass tube sticking through
the wire mesh. Animals such
as mice and gerbils soon learn
to lick the end of the tube to
obtain water .
c. Notes
(i) This cage is intended for long-term housing of small mammals. Cover the
screen floor with shredded newspaper or sawdust. Wastes fall through the screen
floor onto the tray so they can easily be removed. Food can be simply put into
a jar lid or shallow tin can.
(ii) The basic design of this cage can be retained and the dimensions altered
to accomnodate other animals, especially birds. Remember to provide the basic
requirements for each different type of animal (e.g., perches for birds) .
(iii) If space is limited, these cages will stack one upon the other. However,
the door must be hinged to swing open if it is undesirable to unstack them each
time a lower cage is to be opened.
CI . Vivarium
-191-
C. TEMPERATURE CONTROLLED CAGES
(3) Heat Source
(4) Screen
(5) Glass (Not shown
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Frame
(2) Dividers
Qu
Items Required
Plywood (A)
Plywood (8)
Wood (C)
Wood (D)
Wood (E)
Wood (F)
Sheet Metal (G)
Sheet Metal (H)
Wood Dowels (I)
Cloth (Cotton) (J)
Dimensions
60 cm x 45 cm x 1.0 cm
43.5 cmx 20 cmx 1.0 cm
2 cm x 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm
38.5 cmx 2.5 cmx 2.5 cm
56.5 cmx 2.5 cmx 2.5 cm
4 cm x 4 cm x 2 cm
5 cm x 21 cm x 0.05 cm
4 cm x 5 cm x 0.05 cm
42 cm long, 0.7 5 cm
diameter
38 cm x 25 cm
-192-
(3) Heat Source
(4) Screen
Glass
:
Plywood (K)
i
Hardboard (L)
i
Plywood (M)
2
Plywood (N)
2
Wood (0)
1
Wood (P)
2
Sheet Metal (Q)
1
Plywood (R)
:
Light Bulb Socket
i
Light Bulb (T)
:
Electric Cord (U)
Plug (V)
4
Bolts (W)
4
Wing Nuts (X)
1
Wire Screen (Y)
2
Wood (Z)
2
Wood (AA)
2
Wood (BB)
2
Wood (CC)
1
Window Glass (DD)
2
Window Glass (EE)
2
Sheet Metal (FF)
4 4 cm x 1 6 cm x 1 . cm
16.5 cmx 45 cmx 0.3 cm
2 cm x 4 4 cm x 0.5 cm
16.5 cm x 21 cmx 0.5 cm
2 cm x 4 cm x 1 . cm
36 cm x 4 cm x 1.0 cm
14 cm x 5 cm x 0.05 cm
4 4 cm x 15 cm x . 5 cm
(S) Varies
Varies
150 cm long
Varies
8 cm long, . 5 cm
diameter
. 5 . cm inside diameter
2 cm x 45 cm
21 cm x 3 cm x 0.5 cm
3 9 cm x 3 cm x 0.5 cm
45 cm x 3 cm x 0.5 cm
15 cm x 3 cm x 0.5 cm
59 cmx44 cm x 0.25 cm
19 cm x 59 cmx 0.25 cm
12 cm x 4 cm x 0.05 cm
b. Construction
(1) Frame
End (D)
Notches must be made in the two
sidepieces (E) into which the
dividers will be fit, Also,
holes need to be drilled
through the end (D) and the
two uprights (C) through which
the bolts hold the frame, screen,
and heat source are put.
However, these holes should
be drilled when the three
components (frame, screen, heat
source) are held together in
place with clamps in order to
insure that the holes will be
aligned.
-193-
Corner
Blocks (F)
ase (A)
Endpiece (B)
Corner Blocks (F)
Sheet Metal
Glass Guides (G,H)
Glass
Glass
Nail, screw and/or glue the
endpiece (B) to the base (A) ,
flush to one edge and 0.75 cm
from the other two edges. Nail
two uprights (C) to the base,
flush to the opposite end and
each 0.75 cm from the outside
edge. Nail the sidepieces (E)
into position between the
uprights and endpiece, and also
nail the end (D) between the
two uprights.
Two sguare pieces of wood (F)
cut into triangular shapes are
used as corner blocks to provide
additional support and strength.
To provide guides for the glass,
six rectangular pieces of
aluminum sheeting (G, H) (0.05cm
thick) are required. They are
folded to the shape shown.
Four (G) are nailed to the
upright and endpiece. The
remaining two (H) are nailed
to the end and endpiece. These
guides should be fastened in
such a way as to provide
approximately a 0.75 cm gap
between wood and metal so that
the glass can slide easily in
and out .
-194-
(2) Dividers
Dowel (I)
Cloth (0)
(3) Heat Source
Back (M)
End (
The dividers are simply made
with wooden dowels (I) . A
piece of cotton cloth (J) is
sewn around the dowel, and hangs
down to within 1 or 2 cm of the
base. The dividers (two are
needed) are fit into the notches
in the frame sides.
Use the piece of plywood (K)
as the base of the heat source.
Fasten the two plywood pieces
(N) to the ends of the base and
the third plywood piece (M) to
the back. Nail two of the wood
strips (0) to the base and
ends, and nail the remaining
strip (P) between these two
ip (P) pieces (0) .
Nail the piece of hardboard (L)
to the top of the frame to
enclose it. This hardboard
should be the perforated type
with . 5 cm holes spaced every
2.5 - 3.0 cm. If such hard-
board is not available, it can
easily be made by making holes
in regular board. Holes must
also be made in the heat source,
but again, these should be
-195-
piug
(4) Screen
drilled when the frame, screen,
and heat source can all be held
together with clamps to insure
alignment of the holes. Drill
another hole in the back to
allow the wire to the light
bulb socket to run through.
Two guides (Q) are needed for
the ventilation board, and are
nailed to the sides of the heat
source. Make these like the
glass guides described in
construction step (1) . The
ventilation board (R) is made
of thin plywood slightly
shorter in length and width
than the top of the heat source.
It should slide easily in and
out between the guides (Q) .
Finally, fasten a light bulb
socket (S) in the middle of
the heat source. Wire a plug (V)
to the socket with the wire (U)
and lead it out of the box
through a small hole drilled in
the back. Screw a bulb (T) in
place.
The screen is made with eight
pieces of wood. Form two
rectangular frames. Make one
by nailing two pieces of wood
(CC) between the two pieces (BB) ,
and the second frame by nailing
two pieces (AA) between the
shorter pieces (Z) . The
aluminum screening (Y) (wire
mesh) is fastened between the
two frames with nails, and the
frames are nailed and glued
-196-
(5) Glass
together. The four holes for
the connecting bolts (W) will be
made when the three components
(frame, screen, heat source) are
clamped together, and the holes
are drilled through all three
parts at once .
The heat source, screen, and
frame are connected together
with the bolts (W) and wing
nuts (X) .
Three glass plates are not
shown in the main illustration
in order to preserve clarity.
However, the two side plates (EE)
are made from standard window
glass (0.2 cm in thickness) .
They fit between the glass guides
on the frame sides. The top
plate is also window glass (DD) .
The top plate of glass fits
between the two glass guides on
the top of the frame. Any of the
three pieces of glass should
slide easily in and out of place
when the other two are in position.
Additionally, air gaps should be
kept to a minimum.
Finally, two pieces of aluminum
sheeting (FF) can be folded to
the shape shown and slipped over
the top edge of one of the side
pieces of glass (EE) . These
pieces of aluminum then act as
stops to keep the top glass
plate (DD) from sliding out.
-197-
c. Notes
Heat Source
Chamber A
Chamber B
Chamber C
(i) The vivarium is a cage in which the cloth dividers are used to loosely
partition the interior into three chambers. The heat source employs light bulbs
as the heating elements. A desirable result would be to maintain an even tempera-
ture gradient (i.e., 35°, 30°j 25° C) in the three chambers so that animals placed
in the vivarium could seek their own optimal temperature level. For instance, the
temperatures given above would imply that it was thought that the optimal environ-
mental temperature for a given animal was 30°C (the temperature maintained in
Chamber B) . In this case, even if the vivarium were placed out-of-doors and
subjected to temperature fluctuations of ± 5°C, one of the chambers would still
maintain the 30°C level (e.g., temperatures in the vivarium might be depressed to
30°, 25°, 20° or elevated to 40°, 35°, 30° C) . In order to insure that the desired
temperature is maintained in at least one chamber, it may be necessary to increase
the number of chambers from the three used in this experimentation, In fact, all
the conclusions given here must be qualified by the limited nature of the experi-
mentation.
(ii) Following construction of a vivarium, experimentation was carried out to
determine which variables affect the establishment of the temperature gradient,
and how these variables affect this gradient, both separately and in combination.
Variables found to influence the temperature gradient included bulb size (wattage) ,
divider material, height of the dividers above the floor of the cage, use of a
reflector in the heat source and ambient (room) temperature.
(iii) Generally, increasing the bulb size (wattage) caused a marked increase in
temperature in Chamber A, less so in Chamber B, and little or no change in
temperature in Chamber C. The result was that the temperature gradient, rather
-198-
than increasing in equal increments (i . e . , 34° , 30° , 26° C) , tended to increase in
unequal increments (e.g., 36°, 26° 9 23° C) .
(iv) The material from which the dividers are made was found to have little
effect on the temperature gradient maintained in the cage, but the amount of space
left between the bottom of the dividers and the vivarium floor did have a compact-
ing effect on the temperatures, i.e., bringing those in Chambers A and C closer to
that in B.
(v) As might be expected, using a reflector in the heat source caused an overall
rise in temperature in the vivarium. The last variable to be investigated,
ambient (surrounding) temperature, was seen to have a profound influence on the
internal temperatures in the vivarium, and is probably the most important variable
to be considered. No doubt, the vivarium walls will have to be altered using
better insulating materials (e.g., wood rather than glass) in order to reduce the
influence of the ambient temperature,
(vi) Some other variables which were not investigated also may have an effect on
temperature control . Among these is the material in the screen between the heat
source and cage itself. It was aluminum screening for all the experimentation
described here, but may well have different effects if it were made from steel rods
or other materials. The type and amount of ventilation will also be an influence.
The dimensions of the vivarium are also important since a larger cage will
obviously be harder to heat and maintain. The number and size of the chambers are
variables to be reckoned with.
Finally, the most important factor will be the animals and their require-
ments. Testing must be done to see if a reasonable range of temperatures can be
maintained for a variety of animals (e.g., baby chickens, mice, lizards, etc.) . If
experiments are to be run involving the determination of optimal temperature
requirements for a particular animal, the range of temperatures provided must be
narrow enough so that there will be some assurance that the animal has indeed
chosen its favorite temperature, and not simply chosen the lesser of three evils.
For example, if the optimal temperature for a certain lizard is thought to be
30°C, then the range should be 30°C plus or minus 2° or 3°C rather than plus or
minus 6° or 8°.
(vii) Experimentation was also done with the cloth partitions removed, making
the vivarium a single chamber. Three conditions were checked using three different
bulb wattages (60, 100, 175) . In the first condition, the vivarium was used as
described above, only without the cloth partitions . In the second condition, one
half of the glass top was removed and replaced by wood, and in the third case, the
-199-
entire top was wood, leaving only the front piece of glass. In all three instances,
the aluminum foil reflector was used, and the ventilated top of the heat source
was fully closed. The results of this experimentation are tabulated below.
Table I
Vivarium
Room
Condition
Wattage
Temperature
(°c)
Temperature
(°C)
Top Completely
60
26
22
Glass
100
28
22
175
33
22.5
Top One Half
Glass, One Half
Wood
60
100
26
29
22
22.5
175
38
24
Top Completely
Wood
60
100
26
30
22
22
175
37
23
As the data show, there appears to be little significant difference in the
various temperatures, although the additional wood does help hold the heat slightly
better than the all glass top.
The vivarium will serve adeguately as a controlled temperature environment
as long as the ambient (room) temperature is kept relatively constant.
(viii) If the vivarium is to be used in a room where the outside temperature varies
greatly, it is desirable to control its internal temperature more accurately.
Therefore, use the thermostat, itemVI/C3. wire the heat source to the thermostat
which should be mounted in the back panel of the vivarium if no wood is used in the
top. Keep the thermostat as far from the heat source as possible. In addition,
a screen or other protective device must be placed over the thermostat to prevent
the animals (and students) from touching the exposed portions of the thermostat
which carry current of 110 volts.
C2 . Egg Incubator
-200-
(2) Glass Front
(1) Box
3 Heat Reflector
(4) T'ray
5) Heat Source*
a. Materials Reguired
Components
Qu
Items Reguired
(1) Box
2
Wood (A)
2
Plywood (B)
:
Plywood (C)
i
Wood (D)
2
1
Wood (E)
Wood (F)
:
Plywood (G)
(2) Glass Front
2
Glass (H)
2
Wood Strips (I)
2
Wood Strips (J)
2
Wood (K)
2
Wood (L)
4
Screws (M)
2
Rubber Bands (N)
Dimensions
23 cm x 2 cm x 1.5 cm
20 cm x 3 6 cm x 1 . cm
25 cm x 3 6 cm x 1 . cm
23 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
14 cm x 1. cm x 1.0 cm
23 cm x 1 . cm x 1 . cm
19 cm x 2 5 cm x 1 . cm
18 cm x 1 cm x . 3 cm
10 cm x . 5 cm x . 5 cm
17 cm x . 5 cm x . 5 cm
23 cm x 2 . 5 cm x 2 cm
15 cm x 2 . 5 cm x 2 cm
Approximately 2 cm long
-201-
(3) Heat Reflector"
(4) Tray
(5) Heat Source
Plywood (0)
Aluminum Foil (P)
Wire Mesh (Q)
Bolts (R)
Nuts (S)
Bulb Sockets (T)
Bolts (U)
Nuts (V)
Electrical Wire
Plug (X)
Bulbs (Y)
23 cm x 15 cm x 1.0 cm
2 8 cm x 2 cm
2 6 cm x 2 cm
Approximately 2 cm
long
To fit bolts
10 cm diameter (base)
Approximately 3 cm
long
To fit bolts
Approximately 100 cm
b. Construction
(1) Box
Top Piece (A)
ack Piece (C)
Sidepieces
(B)
Bottom
Piece (A)
Nail or screw the two sidepieces
of plywood (B) to the two pieces
of wood (A) serving as the top
and bottom of the box. Nail or
screw the back (C) into position.
Small ventilation holes (0.4 cm
diameter) should be drilled
along the tops of the sidepieces
(B).
-202-
Wood (E)
Cross-
piece (D)
Make certain the crosspiece
(D) fits very tightly, and nail
or screw it into place. Nail or
glue the wood strip (F) to the
top (A) , 2 cm from the front
edge of the top. Likewise,
nail or glue the other two wood
strips (E) to the sidepieces (B) ,
2 cm from their front edges
between the top (A) and cross-
piece (D) .
Wood (F)
Wood (E)
Wood (D)
The front panel (G) is screwed
into place so it may be easily
removed to permit completing
the construction of the incuba-
tor, and to permit changing the
light bulb in the heat source.
Front
Panel (G)
-203-
(2) Glass Front
Half-lap Joint
Wood (K)
Make the frame for the glass
front with half-lap joints (see
drawing) . Use this type of
joint to connect the two short
pieces of wood (L) to the two
longer ones (K) . Glue the two
wood strips (I) down the center
of the inner surface of the
short wood pieces (L) , and
similarly, glue the longer
strips (J) down the center of
the inner surface of the long
pieces (K) . These thin strips
serve to separate the two
pieces of glass (H) which can
now be glued into place with
epoxy resin cement.
Wood (L)
Wood (i)
Wood (J)
Front View
Wood (L) Glass (H) Wood (L)
I K 1
I
Wood (I) Wood < K > Wood (D
Cross Section
-204-
(3) Heat Reflector
Screw
Rubber
Band (N)
Plywood (0)
Aluminum
Foil (P)
The glass front should fit
tightly in the recess in the
front of the box. To hold it in
place, fasten one screw (M) on
each side of the frame of the
glass front and each side of the
box adjacent to the glass front.
Rubber bands (N) stretched
tightly between adjacent screws
should hold the glass front
firmly in position.
Cover the lower surface of the
plywood (0) with the aluminum
foil (P) and nail the heat
reflector into position as
shown. Be sure the rear edge
is touching the back (C) of the
box.
Front View
(4) Tray
Wire Mes
h. (Q)
Tray (Diagram)
1.5
Use the wide (0.5 cm square)
wire mesh (Q) for the tray and
fold it so there is a 1.5 cm
edge all around. Fasten it to
the inside of the box by pinning
the side edges of the mesh to
the sides of the box with the
nuts (S) and bolts (R) .
Obviously holes will have to be
drilled through the sides of
the box to permit passage of
the bolts. The rear edge of
the tray should touch the back
(C) of the box.
-205-
Nut (S)
Bolt (R)
Front View
(5) Heat Source
Tray
Heat
Reflector
Bulb (Y)
Socket (T)
Bolt (U)
To Plug
c. Notes
Front View
Drill four holes in the back of
the box near the bottom through
which the bolts (U) will be
passed to hold the bulb sockets
(T) in position. Wire the
sockets together in parallel
with short lengths of wire (W)
and pass the remaining wire out
of the box through a fifth hole
drilled in the back. Wire the
plug (X) in place, and tighten
the nuts (V) onto the bolts (U)
now that the bulb sockets are
wired. Finally, place the
desired number and power
(wattage) of light bulbs (Y)
in the sockets.
(i) Use the egg incubator in the study of the embryology of chicken or other
eggs. The double glass front permits visual observation of the eggs on the tray
without undue heat loss.
(ii) The temperature in the incubator will remain constant using varying
-206-
wattages of light bulbs as long as the room temperature is relatively constant
(see the table) .
Watts
Incubator
Room
Temperature
(°c)
Temperature
(°c)
40
37.5
23.0
60
46.0
25.5
80
51.0
23.0
120
67.0
23.0
(iii) The thermostat (VI/C3) should be used with the incubator to insure that the
internal temperature maintains itself at the correct level. Mount it in the top
of the incubator, protected by a wire screen which will prevent hatchlings (and
people) from touching the live wires. In fact, if the incubator is definitely to
be used with the thermostat, increase the height of the top above the egg tray to
insure that the hatchlings cannot touch the thermostat.
-207-
C3 . Thermostat
(1) Platform
(3) Electrical
System
(2) Bimetallic
Strips
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Platform
(2) Bimetallic Strips 2
1
2
q u Items Required
1 Wood (A)
1 Wood (B)
1 Wood Strip (C)
1 Wood Strip (D)
Bimetallic (Brass/Steel)
Strips ( E )
Platinum Wire (F)
Bolts (G)
(3) Electrical
System
2 Nuts (H)
4 Washers (I)
1 Bolt (J)
1 Nut (K)
1 Washer (L)
1 Plastic Tube (M)
Insulation Tape (N)
1 Capacitor (0)
1 Roll of Copper Wire (P)
Dimensions
10 cm x 10 cm x 1.0 cm
6 cm x 6 cm x 1.0 cm
3 cm x 2 cm x . 5 cm
2 cm x 1.5 cm x 0.5 cm
Approximately 3 . 5 cm
x 0.5 cm
#20, 3 cm lonq
. 2 cm diameter, 4 cm
long
0.2 cm internal
diameter
. 3 cm diameter, 5 cm
long
0.3 cm internal
diameter
1 cm external diameter
0.3 cm internal
diameter, . 5 cm long
0.01 microfarads
#20
-208-
b. Construction
(1) Platform
Bolt (Q)
Nuts (R)
1 Double Electrical Cord (S)
1 Plug (T)
0.3 cm diameter,
2.5 cm long
0.3 cm internal
diameter
300 cm long
110 volt
Glue the smaller wood piece (B)
to the middle of the larger one
(A) . Next, glue wood strip (D)
at one end of the other wood
strip (E) , and glue this
resulting section near one edge
of wood sguare (B) .
(2) Bimetallic Strips
Brass
Steeil
Side View
y> Holes
Wire (F)
\
Solder
Bimetallic
Strips (E)
Drill a small hole (0.2 cm
diameter or smaller) in one end
of each bimetallic strip (E) .
Purchase these strips locally
from a radio or electrical shop.
Place a short piece of the
platinum wire (F) through this
hole and with a hammer, flatten
each protruding piece of the wire
flat as if the wire were a tiny
rivet. Place a small drop of
solder on the flattened portion
of wire on the steel side of the
bimetallic strip to insure good
electrical contact. Alterna-
tively, drill two very small
holes in the end of each bi-
metallic strip, those in one
strip in line with the short
side of the strip and those in
the other in line with the long
side of the strip (see illustra-
-209-
Wire (F)
i
\1
Solder
Wire
(F)<
d
Brass
_L_
t
Steel
Side View
13
>Bime
Stri
Bimetallic
ps (E)
Top Views
Nut (H)
Washer r ^ *
(I) ~
Bolt (G)
-Bolts (G)
Washer (.1)
.Side viev
tion). Place one end of a short
piece of the platinum wire
through each hole from the brass
side of the strip and solder
these ends to the steel side of
the strip to provide good
electrical contact . Flatten each
wire slightly with a hammer to
help make a greater surface area
for electrical contact. Regard-
less of the manner in which the
platinum is fixed to the end of
the bimetallic strips, drill a
small (0.2 cm diameter) hole in
the opposite end of each strip.
Also, make certain no solder is
on the brass side of the bi-
metallic strips since this is
likely to contaminate the surface
of the platinum contacts.
Next, drill two holes (0.2 cm
diameter) through the platform,
one through all four pieces of
wood and the other through all
but piece (D) . Attach the
bimetallic strips to the platform
with the two bolts (G) , two
nuts (H) , and four washers (I)
as shown. The platinum contact
point of the lower strip should
face up while that of the upper
strip should face down.
-210-
Position of
Adjustment
Boit (J)
Pivot the free ends of the
bimetallic strips toward one
another so that the platinum
contact points will touch one
another when the strips are
pressed together.
Top View
Side View
Nut (K)
Washer (L)
Drill a hole (0.3 cm diameter)
through the platform directly
below the middle of the lower
bimetallic strip. Inset the
nut (K) into the outside wood
piece (A) directly over the
hole. Thread the bolt (J)
through the nut and hole. Place
the piece of plastic tubing (M)
on the end of the bolt (J) to
prevent electrical contact
between the bolt and metallic
strip. Solder the washer (L) to
the notch in the bolthead and
cover both thoroughly with
insulation tape (N) . Make
absolutely certain the bolt is
completely insulated from the
bimetallic strip as it will
carry 110 volt current.
-211-
(3) Electrical System
Capacitor (0)
Purchase the capacitor (0)
locally, and connect it across
the bimetallic strips. Cut a
hole (6 cm x 6 cm) into the top
of the container which is to
be heated. The thermostat plat-
form should fit firmly in the
hole with the bimetallic strips
beneath the platform.
Top View
Capacitor (0)
Bimetallic
Strips (E)
T
Terminal
/
-oj -
t
Power
Source
Wiring Diagram
C. Notes
V J
Light
Bulbs
Use one piece of copper wire
(P) to connect one of the
bimetallic strips to one contact
of the bulb socket of the
heating source, and use another
piece of the wire to connect the
other bimetallic strip to a
terminal [made from bolt (Q) and
two nuts (R) ] which must be put
in the back of the cage or
incubator which is to be heated.
Then, connect the double
electrical cord (S), with the
plug (T) attached, to the ter-
minal and the remaining contact
on the bulb socket. The wiring
circuit as shown in the diagram
is now complete, and the
thermostat is ready for use.
(i) It should be noted that due to lack of time the thermostat described here
was tested out with the Microorganism Incubator (VII/A4) only. Care should there-
fore be taken to test the thermostat carefully when used in conjunction with either
the Egg Incubator (VI/C2) or Vivarium (VI/C1) .
-212-
(ii) It was noted that using the thermostat the temperature of the Micro-
organism Incubator took about 25 minutes to stabilize.
Time
Minutes
Cage Temperature
°c
40.5
5
39.0
10
38.5
15
38.0
20
38.0
25
37.0
30
37.0 stabilized
(iii) Do not permit direct radiation from the heat source to fall on the thermo-
stat, otherwise the thermostat will switch itself off before the air temperature
has risen to the desired level.
Top View
Heat
Source
Thermostat
Where there is a possibility
of direct radiation falling on
the bimetallic strips of the
thermostat make an appropriate
shield to stop the radiation
without restricting the circu-
lation of air around the bimetal-
lic strips.
-213-
VII. MICROBIAL GROWTH APPARATUS
A. BASIC APPARATUS
Included here are improvised versions of the equipment necessary to perform
elementary investigations in microbiology. Information on culturing microorganisms
should be obtained from standard texts on the subject.
-214-
A. BASIC APPARATUS
Al. Culture Flask
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
J-
(1) Bottle
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Bottle
b. Construction
Qll I tems Required
1 Medicine Bottle (A)
1
Cotton Plug (B)
(1) Bottle
Cotton
■Plug (B)
Dimensions
About 100 ml or
larger
Sterilize the bottle (A) and
fill it 1/6 full of either
liquid or gelatin culture
medium. Stopper it with the
cotton plug (B) . f gelatin
medium is used, lay the bottle
on its side and allow the
medium to set. Store the
flask with the medium on the
upper side of the flask so that
no moisture film will form on
the medium.
c. Notes
(i) Consult a standard microbiological text or source book for deta il in working
with bacteria and other microorganisms.
(ii) Use glass medicine bottles with flat sides if these are available.
(iii) Petri dishes are invaluable in working with microbes. SeeCHEM/V/A6 for
instructions in making petri dishes.
Medium
A2 . Sterilizer
-215-
(1) Top
(2) Can
(3) Rack (Not visible)
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Top
(2) Can
(3) Rack
b. Construction
(1) Top
Qll Items Required
1 Sheet Metal (A)
1 Hinge (B)
1 Tin Can (C)
4 Screws (D)
1 Sheet Metal (E)
Hinge (B) ,'
Original — *. \
Outline of
Sheet Metal (A) -^
Tab
Dimensions
17 cm diameter,
0.075 cm thick
3 CITl'X 2 cm
15 cm diameter,
18 cm high
1.5 cm long
14.5 cm diameter,
0.075 cm thick
Cut the top from a circular
piece of sheet metal (A) .
Leave three tabs to be bent
down at right (90°) angles. The
tabs are 1.0 cm long. Screw
the small hinge (B) to the top
directly opposite the middle
tab.
-216-
(2) Can
Tab
Hinge (B)
R'idge
Side View
(3) Rack
Remove one end from the tin can
(C) . Attach the top to the can
by means of the hinge. Most tin
cans have a ridge around the
edge so that when the top is
closed, the three tabs should
catch on this ridge and hold
the top down rather firmly.
Finally, screw the four screws
(D) through the outside into the
inside of the can, 9 cm from the
bottom and spaced about 12 cm
apart.
Punch a number of holes into
the sheet metal disc (E). Set
this disc inside the can so
that it is supported by the
four screws extending into the
can.
Hinge (B)
8 -—Top (A)
Rack (E)
Side View
(Cross-section)
C. Notes
(i) To use the sterilizer, simply put 3 - 4 cm of water in the can and place
the items to be sterilized on the rack. After the water has begun to boil, leave
■217-
the items in the steam for about 90 minutes.
(ii) If the can used is large enough, two or more racks can be made for it to
allow a larger number of articles to be sterilized at the same time.
(iii) This sterilizer will kill most, but not all, common bacterial contaminants.
If pure sterility is desired , an autoclave or ordinary pressure cooker is needed.
Place the articles on a rack and autoclave or pressure cook them for about 20
minutes .
(iv) An alternate rack can be made by fastening a circular piece of wire mesh
to a frame of stiff wire.
-21£
A3. Inoculating Needles
(1) Needle
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Needle
b. Construction
(1) Needle
Qll I tems Required
1 Glass Tube (A)
1 Nichrome Wire (B)
/
Heat Here
Glass Tube (A)
chrome
Wire (B)
Side View
Dimensions
. 3 cm diameter,
12 cm long
10 cm long, #24
gauge
Use soft glass tubing (A) with
a small diameter bore. Insert
about 2 cm of the wire (B) in
one end of the tube and heat
this end in a hot flame until
the end of the glass constricts
and holds the wire fast.
Notes
(i) The nichrome wire may be left straight or a 0.3 cm loop may be made in the
end by twisting the wire around a 0.3 cm round object with pliers.
(ii) Use inoculating needles for transferring small amounts of bacterial cu Itures
from one medium to another.
•219-
A4 . Microorganism Incubator
(1) Frame and Trays
(4) Door
(2) Heat Reflector
(3) Heat Source
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Frame and Trays
(2) Heat Reflector
Qli Items Required
3 Plywood (A)
1 Plywood (B)
1 Plywood (C)
6 Wood Strips (D)
3 Perforated
Hardboard (E)
1 Plywood (F)
1 Aluminum Foil (G)
Dimensions
35 cm x 32 cm x 1.0 cm
33 cm x 32 cm x 1.0 cm
35 cm x 3 6 cm x 1.0 cm
30 cm x 1.5 cm x 1.0 cm
32.5 cm x 31 cm
x 0.3 cm
33 cm x 2 4 cm x 0.5 cm
37 cm x 2 8 cm
-220-
(3) Heat Source
(4) Door
Egg Incubator,
Heat Source (H)
Plywood (I)
Hinges (J)
Screws (K)
Nails (L)
Rubber Bands (M)
b. Construction
(1) Frame and Trays
Wood Str
ips
(D)
1.5
l\
"IT
i /
l\
lr
6.5
sS
n
1
1
\
n
5
i
1
t
I
1
1
•- 4 y~
c-z-~_-
t
4.5
\
\ Position of
18.
Heat Reflector
3z
<
VI/C2, Component (5)
35 cm x 3 6 cm x 1.0 cm
Approximately 4 cm long
. 7 cm long
1 cm long
Nail three of the wood strips (D)
to each of two of the pieces of
plywood (A) as illustrated to
make the two side pieces of the
frame. Nail the bottom edges of
the completed side pieces to
the wood (B) used as the base.
Nail the back piece (C) into
position as well as the top piece
(A) . When the frame is finished,
the pieces of perforated card-
board (E) which serve as the
trays should slide easily into
the frame on the wood strips (D).
Plywood (A)
-221-
TOP (A)
I 1
u
Strips (D) <^
f
V L
J
Hardboard (E)
L
- Sides (A) '
j
i
■
I
Back (C)
Base (B)
Frame and Trays
(Front view)
(2) Heat Reflector
Cover one side of the plywood (F)
with aluminum foil (G) to make the
heat reflector. Nail the reflec-
tor into place 13 cm above the
base (B) of the frame with a
4 cm gap between the rear edge of
the reflector and the back (C) of
the frame.
(3) Heat Source
Front View
-222-
Use two light bulbs as the heat
source (H) exactly as described
for item VI/C2, Component (5) .
T
X
T
J
Heat Reflector
To Plug
Heat Source
(Bulbs and
Sockets)
(4) Door
Door (i)
Nail (L)
Rubber Band (M)
Fasten one edge of the plywood
(I) to the side of the frame with
the hinges (J) and screws (K)
Hinges (J) making certain the door shuts as
closely to the frame as possible.
Felt strips may be used as
insulation between the door and
frame if necessary, both to
conserve heat loss and prevent
the introduction of airborne
contaminants. The door may be
held closed by using rubber
bands (M) which are stretched
-223-
between adjacent pairs of
nails (M) in the frame and
door.
C. Notes
(i) Use the microorganism incubator to provide a proper environment for
growing bacteria, mold, and other cultures. The dimensions of the incubator
as given are to enable each tray to hold nine (three rows of three) standard
petri dishes (9 cm diameter) .
(ii) If the incubator is used in a constant temperature room, the
temperature in the incubator can be held relatively constant. Using the
correct combination of bulbs will yeild an internal temperature close to
that desired. Rather than drilling ventilation holes to cool the
incubator if it is too hot, it might be better to paint part of the light
bulbs with black paint to cut down their heat, Ventilation holes would
allow contaminants into the incubator. The following gives a few
examples of temperatures which can be maintained in the incubator.
Wattage
Incubator
Temperature
(°c)
Room
Temperature
(°c)
40
60
80
35.0
40.5
48.0
23.5
22.0
23.5
(iii) The thermostat (VI/C3) should be used with the incubator to insure
that the internal temperature maintains itself at the correct level. Mount
it in the top of the incubator, protected by a wire screen which will
prevent persons from touching the live wires, In fact, if the incubator is
definitely to be used with the thermostat, increase the height of the top
above the uppermost tray in order to insure that people placing cultures
in the incubator have less chance of touching the thermostat,
-224-
A5 . Transfer Pipette
(1) Pipette
a. Materials Required
Components QU
(1) Pipette 1
b. Construction
(1) Pipette
n
db
Items Required
Glass Tube (A)
Pipette
.Rubber
Tube
Syringe
<y>
Dimensions
35 cm long, 0.4 cm
inside diameter
Hold one end of the glass tube
(A) in a flame until the opening
begins to constrict slightly.
Remove it from the flame and let
it cool when the opening is
about 0.1 cm wide. To calibrate
the pipette, a 10 cc (ml)
syringe and short piece of
rubber or plastic tubing is
needed. Connect the ends of the
pipette and syringe with the
short (4-5 cm) piece of tubing.
Fill the syringe and pipette
with 7 or 8 cc of water and
eliminate air bubbles by gently
tapping the pipette. Hold the
pipette vertically (syringe at
the bottom) and withdraw the
-225-
syringe plunger until the water
empties from the pipette. Note
the position of the syringe
plunger on the scale and rein-
ject water into the pipette 0.5
ml at a time until a total of
5 ml is reached. At each
injection, mark the position of
the water meniscus with a tri-
angular file to form a permanent
scale.
C. Notes
(i) This pipette is used in transferring exact amounts of culture broth from
one container to another. Draw broth into the pipette with mouth suction and
force the liquid out by gently blowing through the tube.
(ii) If desired, numbers may be written by the filed marks to indicate the Capa-
city at that point. These numbers will last longest if they are drawn with waxed
crayons or other types of pencils designed for writing on glass.
A6. Transfer Chamber *
-226-
(2) Glass
(1) Body
a. Materials
Required
Components
fiu
Items Required
(1) Body
2
1
2
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
Plywood (A)
Plywood (B)
Plywood (C)
Plywood (D)
Wood (E)
Wood (F)
Wood (G)
Wood (H)
Wood (I)
Wood (J)
Wood (K)
Wood (L)
Wood (M)
1
Aluminum Sheet
(N
1
Aluminum Sheet
(0
Dimensions
60 cm x 4 cm x
0.75 cm
60 cm x 20 cm x
0.7 5 cm
40.75 cm x 40 cm x
0.75 cm
61.5 cmx 18 cmx
0.75 cm
60 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
24 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
36 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
16 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
37.25 cm x 2 cm x
2 cm
2 8 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
15 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
6 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
20 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
2 5 cmx 1 1 cmx
0.05 cm
20 cm x 14 cm x
0.05 cm
*Adapted from Richard E. Barthel emy , et . al., Innovations in Equipment and Techniques
i, 1964), pp 12-14.
for the Biology Teaching Laboratory, (Boston: D. C. Heath,
-227-
(2) Glass
b. Construction
(1) Body
Window Glass (P)
r" 30
10
A
^8^
9-m
T
11
i_
25.5
28.5 cm x 58.5 cm x
0.3 cm
Begin the transfer chamber by
cutting two holes into one of
the large pieces of plywood (A) .
These will serve as ventilating
holes when the chamber is
enclosed.
Plywood (A)
h — 20 — H- 1 — 12 -4* 8 *
Plywood (B)
Cut two holes in the piece of
plywood (B) to serve as arm-
holes. The size and distance
apart of these holes may be
varied to suit personal prefer-
ences .
Detail of Hole
-22E
Cut the piece of aluminum
sheeting (0) (other metal sheet-
ing may be substituted) to the
given pattern. Bend up the
straight sides along the dotted
lines to form two flanges, each
1.5 cm wide.
Poll the sheet metal (0) around
a round object (e.g., a broom
handle) until it takes the
shape of a half cone.
Half Cone
Similarly, bend up the two
11 cm sides of the other piece
of aluminum (N) , and roll it
into a half-cylinder shape.
Pattern
Half Cylinder
-229-
Nail the two aluminum pieces
into position on the piece of
plywood (A) in which the holes
have been cut. Position the
half cone directly over the
triangular hole. Position the
half cylinder so that its edges
are even with the edges of the
rectangular hole.
Nail the two wood strips (F)
to the bottom edge of the back
(A) . Nail this in turn to the
other plywood (A) used as the
base.
Plywood (a)
-230-
L
t
20
L
\ 1
40.75
\ 1
h-20 -*
-
'
- 40 A
Cut the two pieces (C) as shown.
Use these pieces as endpieces
for the chamber.
Endpiece <o
Nail two strips (G) , two strips
(I), and one strip (E) to the
back and base. Then nail the
two endpieces (C) into position.
Nail the two strips (K) to the
front edge of the end, being
careful to leave a 0.75 cm
overlap for the frontpiece to
fit into.
Frame
-231-
1.0
Overlap
Ml)
Next, nail the two strips (l_)»
and the other strip (E) and
strips (M) to the back of the
frontpiece (B) as shown. Pro-
perly done, this piece can now
be nailed into the front of the
chamber. Be sure there is about
a 1.0 cm overlap of the plywood
over the 60 cm strip.
37^-45'
16-
1^— 45'
45 angles
28
Cut one end of the wood strips
(H) and wood strips (J) off at
Back (A)
Base (A)
End (C)
Nail one each of strips (J) and
(H) to the endpieces (C) i nSUf-
ing they fit as shown in the
drawing.
Front (B)
Cutaway View of One End
-232-
Top (D)
Front (B)
Detail
To complete the body, nail the
last piece of plywood (D) to be
the top, even with the edges of
the back and sides.
(2) Glass Simply rest the glass (P) on
the frame made of the three
wood strips, one on the front
(E) and one each (J) on each
endpiece. There should be no
gaps between the glass and
frame .
C. Notes
(i) Use the transfer chamber when transferring microbiological cultures from
one container to another. With it, such techniques can be performed in adraft-
free environment, thus reducing the possibility of airborne contamination. The
students' or instructors' arms fit through the armholes in front while the glass
permits all operations to be viewed easily.
(ii) The holes in the back serve for ventilation when the chamber is used with
a bunsen burner.
-233-
VII. PHYSIOLOGY MATERIALS
A. KYM1 GRAPH
A wide range of,phys iological experiments using larger organisms may be performed
using the kymograph.
B. VOLUMETER
In addition to identifying pressure changes, one may calculate the volume of gas
exchanged with this equipment.
C. FERMENTATION TUBES
Fermentation rate is measured indirectly by the measurement of carbon dioxide.
D . MANOMETER
This apparatus enables one to identify changes in pressure within a biological
system.
E. CHROMATOGRAPHY APPARATUS
Chromatography gives students useful insight into the techniques scientists use
in investigating the biochemical composition of organisms.
-234-
A. KYMOGRAPH
Al . Kymograph
(1) Support
(4) Stylus
Assembly
(2) Drum
Assembly
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Support
Qll I tems Required
3 Wood (A)
1 Wood (B)
Dimensions
25 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
4 5 cm x 3 cm x 1 . cm
-235-
(2) Drum Assembly
1
Sheet Metal
(C)
1
Tin Can (D)
2
Sheet Metal
(E)
:
Stiff Wire
(F)
l
Tin Can (G)
(3) Drive Assembly
(4) Stylus Assembly 1
1
Sheet Metal Screws (H)
Glass Tubing (I)
1
Wood (J)
:
Stiff Wire (K)
1
Tin Can (L)
1
Sand (M)
1
Stiff Wire (N)
String (0)
Tin Can (P)
Pencil Stub (Q)
Wood (R)
Stiff Wire (S)
Nail (T)
Rubber Band (U)
2 cm diameter
4 liter (i.e., 15 cm
diameter, 17 cm high)
17 cm x 2 cm x 0.05 cm
30 cm long, 0.2 cm
diameter
5 cm diameter, 6 cm
high
1 an long
. 4 cm diameter, 1.0
cm long
3 cm diameter, . 5 cm
thick
16 cm long, 0.2 cm
thick
1 liter capacity
600 g
20 cm long, #20 gauge
(0.1 cm diameter)
100 cm
4 liter capacity
25 cm x 2 cm x 2 cm
30 cm long, 0.2 cm
thick
1 cm long, 0.2 cm
thick
6 cm long
b. Construction
(1) Support
Base (B)
Hole
Wood (A)
Drill a hole through one of the
pieces of wood (A) directly in
its center. Drill another hole
in the base board (B) directly
below the hole in the upper
strip of wood. Each hole should
have a diameter of about 0.3 cm.
The hole in the base should be
drilled only halfway through.
Nail two of the strips (A) to
the base and nail the crosspiece
(A) so that the two holes are
-236-
(2) Drum Assembly
Holes
Ai . . ...,{} _ Screws (H)
Small Can^
(G)
■ ■ ■ ■ ' ' ' ' ' '
'Open
End
^ Large
Can
Side view
(Cross-Section)
^Hole
5
^X
1.0
15
Metal Strip (E)
Solder
Here
Metal
Strip (E)
'Large
Can (D)
aligned. Finally, drill a 0.3
cm hole through the center of
the disc of sheet metal (C) and
nail the sheet metal to the
base so that the hole in the
base and the hole in the sheet
metal are aligned.
Try to select two tin cans (D,G)
for the drum assembly which
have both ends more or less
intact. Otherwise, adjustments
must be made to compensate for
the open ends. At any rate,
drill holes 0.3 cm in diameter
in the center of both ends of
each of the tin cans. Solder
the two cans together making
certain the holes in each align.
If one of the ends of one or
both cans has been removed, then
the two cans can be screwed
together with two sheet metal
screws (H) . Here, the illustra-
tions show the situation when
the small can (G) is intact and
the large can (D) has one end
removed.
To solve the problem of the
open end of the large can (D) ,
take the two sheet metal strips
(E) and bend a flap down 1 . cm
from each end. Drill a 0.3 cm
hole through each strip in its
center. Put the two metal
strips across the top of the can
so that they are at right angles
(90°) and their holes are
aligned. The flaps can be
adjusted so that the strips are
-237-
Wire
Axel (F)
Small
Can (G)
Glass
Tube (I)
Front View
(3) Drive Assembly
Pulley (J)
.3
Support
Large
Can (D)
Screw (H)
Metal
3 Disc (C)
110-5
Top View
Side View
held tightly in place, or they
may be soldered to the sides of
the can.
Screw a short sheet metal screw
(H) partway into the small can
(G) to serve as an attachment
point for the drive assembly
string (0) . Then, take the
stiff wire (F) and insert it
through the hole in the support,
through the drum and through
the glass tubing (I) . Fire
polish the ends of the glass to
make them smooth. Finally,
make sure the end of the wire
rests in the hole in the base.
The exposed end of the wire
axle (F) may be bent for safety.
The whole drum assembly should
turn freely now.
Saw a groove all around the
circumference of the wood disc
(J) to make it act as a pulley.
Drill a hole 0.3 cm in diameter
through its center. Make the
pulley mount from the stiff wire
(K) by bending it to a "U"
shape.
Pulley Mount (K)
7
6
Hammer the pulley mount into
position on the base of the
support after the pulley (J)
has been slipped into place on
the mount. It may be necessary
-238-
Drum
Top View
Support--!- r*-i
s
Drum
Pulley
>
to drill small holes in the
base for the pulley mount to
fit into. The pulley and mount
must be positioned at the front
of the base directly in line
with the drum assembly, and
the pulley must extend beyond
the edge of the base. The
pulley mount can be bent over
to insure that the pulley will
extend out beyond the edge of
the base, or alternatively, the
holes into which the mount is
inserted can be drilled at an
angle .
Side View
Wire (N)
Can (L)
Use the wire (N) to make a
handle for the 1 liter can (L) .
Simply drill or punch two holes
(0.2 cm diameter) near the top
edge of the can, insert an end
of the wire through each hole,
and bend the ends up. Add the
sand (M) to the can to act as
ballast. This much weight
should cause the can to float
with only about 1 cm sticking
above water level.
-239-
Four Li ter Can (P
Make the 4 liter tin can (P)
into a reservoir by removing
its top. Tape the cut edges to
prevent students from being cut.
Drill or punch a small (0.15 cm
diameter) hole at the bottom of
the reservoir. Plug this hole
with a pencil stub (Q) or piece
of wood.
1§==71
S Pulley (j)
Screw (H)
Side View
i_fc
String (0)
Tin Can
Float (L)
Reservoir
■*"(P) (Cross-
section)
Slug (Q)
To set up the drive assembly,
plug the hole in the reservoir
(P) and fill it with water.
Attach one end of the string
(0) to the handle of the can
(L) and make a small loop in
the other end of the string.
Put this loop around the screw
(H) in the small tin can (G)
under the drum, and wrap one
turn of string around the small
can. Run the string across the
pulley (J), and float the tin
can in the reservoir. Properly
done, the float should lower
gradually when the reservoir
plug (Q) is pulled and water
leaks out. As the float lowers,
the string pulls on the drum
causing it to slowly turn.
-240-
(4) Stylus Assembly
Rubber
Band (U)\
Stylus
Support OU
Stylus (S)
Rubber
Band (U)
Nail
Stylus (S)
Stylus
Support (R)
Top View
k- 5 -hst
20
Side View of Stylus (S)
J
Top View
P
Front View
Nail or screw the stylus support
(R) into position about 1 . cm
from one edge of the base, and
7 cm from the other edge. Make
the stylus itself from the stiff
wire (S) by making a loop in it
about 5 cm from one end. Bend
about 1 cm of the other end to
a 90° angle to form the point.
This point may be filed sharp
to make a finer line. Position
the stylus on the support by
driving a nail (T) with a
large head through the loop in
the stylus. Drive the-nail in
only enough to allow the stylus
to pivot freely without twist-
ing a great deal. The position
of the stylus point on the
drum depends upon where on the
stylus support the stylus is
nailed, i.e., the higher the
pivot point on the support, the
higher on the drum the point
of the stylus will strike.
Finally, tie the rubber band (U)
(break it at one point) to the
upright support and to the
middle of the stylus. Adjust
] this rubber band so that the
stylus point strikes the drum
firmly, yet lightly enough not
to interfere with the rotation
of the drum.
-241-
c. Notes
(i) To operate the kymograph, the drum must first be covered with a sheet of
17 cm x 50 cm glossy paper. Remove the drum from the support and attach the
paper, glossy side out, to the drum with tape at the top and bottom. See that the
seam where the two edges of the paper overlap is positioned in such a way that the
stylus point will not catch on it (the seam) as the drum rotates.
Rotate the drum over a burning kerosene lamp. Hold the drum high enough
so that the paper will not be scorched. Continue rotating it in the smoke until
the drum is completely covered with carbon black. It takes about five minutes
to cover the paper with carbon, reguiring about 10 ml of kerosene. Handle the
drum carefully since the carbon is easily scratched and rubbed off.
Replace the drum in the support, holding the stylus out of the way until the
drum is in position. When the string to the float in the reservior is taut, the
apparatus is ready to use.
(ii) One example of the use of the kymograph will be given here. Refer to the
drawing below:
Balloon
Yeast
Scribed
Path
Pat soi! mm lit!:, y s a s t , a « i sugar i i a bottle or last tubs aid seal tie sal
with an expandable membrane (a piece of balloon rubber works well) . Place the
solution under the end of the stylus so that the tip of the stylus rests on the
balloon. Start the drum rotating by pulling the plug from the bottom of the
-242-
reservoir. As the yeast respire, carbon dioxide gas is given off, gradually
causing the balloon to expand, pushing the tip of the stylus up and its point on
the drum down, leaving a scratch on the smoked paper. The slope of the scratched
line indicates the rate of respiration of the yeast.
(iii) Use a clock, watch or other timing device to record time intervals (e.g.,
30 seconds) and record these intervals by making a small mark on the drum each
interval. These marks must be made as the drum revolves since the drum doesn't
turn at a constant speed. This is because the velocity of the drum depends on
the rate of flow of water from the reservoir which is not constant since the water
pressure lowers as the depth lowers, thus causing the drum to slow down.
(iv) The stylus assembly may be altered to conform to reguirements of other
experiments. For example, the following illustration suggests how the stylus
might be connected for studies of the heartbeat of an anesthetized frog:
Pulley
Heart
(Tie string to
tip of ventricle
Here, as the frog's heart contracts and expands, its motion is translated into up
and down movements of the stylus. Remember, the stylus acts as a lever, and the
amount of movement of the pointer depends upon the relative lengths of the portions
of the stylus to either side of the pivot point.
-243-
(v) The rate at which the drum revolves depends directly upon how fast the
float lowers in the reservoir. Therefore, in order to make the float, and thus
the drum, go faster, it is necessary either to enlarge the reservoir outflow hole
or make several such holes. Conversely, to make the float and drum slower, a
reservoir with a large cross-sectional area is needed. In this case, even though
the float still drops the same distance per one revolution of the drum, more water
must flow out of the larger can to cause it to drop the same distance as in a
smaller can.
(vi) If, for any reason, it is necessary that the drum turn two or more con-
secutive revolutions, remember that the reservoir must be deep enough to allow the
float to drop the additional distance required. To be precise, for each revolution
of the drum, the float must lower a distance equal to the circumference of the
small can which the drive string is wrapped around.
-244-
B. VOLUMETER
Bl. Volumeter
(4) Pressure
Regulator
(5) Mesh
Stand
M
(3) Indicator and
Scale
niijiii i jiiimu i| iui|iui[{ iii[iiuiiiii|iuinuijiui|iiil
(2) Stopper
(1) Vessel
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Vessel
(2) Stopper
(3) Indicator and
Scale
(4) Pressure
Regulator
QU Items Required
1 Wide Mouth Glass Jar (A)
2-Hole Rubber or Plastic
Stopper or Screw Cap (B)
Glass Tubing (C)
1 Stiff Paper Strip (D)
1 Glass Tubing (E)
1 Rubber Tubing (F)
1 Tapered Wood or Glass
Rod Plug (G)
Dimensions
Size depends on
organism to be
studied
To fit vessel
30 cm long, 0.75 cm
outside diameter,
. 5 cm inside diameter
2 cm x 2 cm
4 cm long, 0.75 cm
outside diameter, 0.5
cm inside diameter
4 cm long, 0.75 cm
inside diameter
To fit rubber tubing
-245-
(5) Mesh Stand
b. Construction
(1) Vessel
Wire Mesh (H)
(2) Stopper
Regulator
Indicator
Jar (A)
Side View
(Cross-section)
(3) Indicator and Scale
25
H I |IHI I HUHullMiiHH»|»l»piH|mn»ii|u ii| n ii |ini[i iii
■Tube (C)
V
Scale (D)
(4) Pressure Regulator
To fit vessel
Almost any container (A) from a
vial, to a test tube, to a jar
will suffice. It must be a
convenient size for the organism
to be studied - a liter jar
would not be used for small
insects - and should have a
tight-fitting lid or stopper.
Depending on what vessel is
used, the stopper (B) could be
a two-hole rubber stopper or a
tight-fitting screw cap with
two holes drilled in for glass
tubing. If a jar lid is used,
the openings must be sealed with
clay or paraffin after tbe
indicator and pressure regulator
have been inserted to prevent
gas leak. Seal the underside,
also.
Bend a piece of glass tubing
(C) at a 90° angle as indicated.
Cement a paper scale (D) to the
long arm, and add a drop of
colored detergent solution to
serve as an indicator.
This is a piece of glass tubing
(E) , topped with a section of
rubber tubing (F) and a plug
(G) . To regulate the position
of the indicator, one simply
releases the plug for a short
period of time .
-246-
(5) Wire Mesh
Fold to
This Shape
Cut the wire mesh (H) slightly
larger than the diameter of the
vessel. Bend the ends down to
form a support on which the
organism will be placed.
c. Notes
(i) Ifone wishes to study the oxygen uptake per unit time of an animal, a
COn absorber such as KOH should be placed in the vessel under the wire mesh
support. As the animal respires, Op is taken up and pressure in the tube falls,
causing the bubble to move toward the vessel. Ifone knows the size bore in the
tubing, then one can compute the volume of gas being exchanged by noting the dis-
tance that the indicator moves per unit time.
(ii) Transpiration may be measured by removing the pressure regulator from the
top and inserting a broad-leaved plant cutting into the opening and sealing the
joint with clay. Fill the
Plant-
Indicator
Vessel Filled
with Water
container with water. Have the
indicator bubble start at the
open end of the sidearm tube.
Allow the water to reach room
temperature before setting the
indicator bubble .
Volumeter Used as a
Transpirometer
-247-
C. FERMENTATION TUBES
CI. Balloon Fermentation Tube
(2) Balloon
(1) Vial
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Vial
(2) Balloon
b. Construction
(1) Vial
(2) Balloon
c. Notes
Qll I tems Required
Medicine Vial, Test Tube,
or Small Bottle (A)
Balloon (B)
Dimensions
50 ml capacity
To fit vial opening
Any small container (A) with a
mouth narrow enough to stretch
the open end of the balloon
over will suffice.
Fit the open end of the balloon
(B) over the bottle.
(i) Fill the vial with a yeast-sugar solution before attaching the balloon.
As C0 5 is given off, it collects in the balloon from which it can be taken for
analysis .
-248-
C2 . Durham Fermentation Tube
Q
^v
(1) Jar
(2) Vial
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Jar
(2) Vial
b. Construction
(1) Jar
(2) Vial
C. Notes
Qll I tems Required
Wide-mouthed Glass Jar
or Beaker (A)
Medicine Vial or Test
Tube (B)
Dimensions
500 ml capacity
50 ml capacity
Any larqe wide-mouthed jar (A)
or beaker will do. It must be
large enough so that the small
vial (B) can be covered com-
pletely with fermenting solu-
tion.
The vial (B) should easily fit
inside the jar where it can be
completely submerged in
solution.
(i) Fill both the jar and vial with a sugar-yeast solution. Place a finger
over the open end of the vial, and invert it into the solution in the jar. As
carbon dioxide is given off, some will be collected in the vial. This is useful
for measuring relative amounts and rates of CCL production.
-249-
C3. Syringe Fermentation Tube
(4) Syringe
(3) Vent Tube
(2) Rubber Stopper
(1) Fermenting Bottle
a. Materials Reguired
Components Qtl
(1) Fermenting Bottle 1
(2) Rubber Stopper 1
(3) Vent Tube 1
b. Construction
(1) Fermenting Bottle
(2) Rubber Stopper
Items Required
Wide-mouth Jar (A)
Z-Hole Rubber Stopper (B)
Glass Tube (C)
Rubber Tube (D)
Plastic Syringe (E)
Dimensions
300-500 ml capacity
To fit fermenting
bottle opening
6 cm long, . 5 cm
outside diameter
100 cm long, . 5 cm
inside diameter, 25-
50 ml
25-50 ml capacity
Select a large glass or plastic
container (A) with a wide mouth.
A two-hole rubber stopper (B) is
needed to seal the bottle
opening.
-250-
(3) Vent Tube
(4) Syringe
Bend the glass tube (C) to a
right (90°) angle and insert it
into one of the holes in the
rubber stopper (B) . Attach the
rubber tubing (D) to the other
end of the glass tube.
Insert the syringe nozzle (E)
into the remaining hole of the
stopper .
c. Notes
(i) One method of use for the syringe fermentation tube is as follows: Seal
off the vent tube with a clamp or wood plug. Put about 250 ml of yeast solution
in the fermenting bottle and put a known amount and concentration (e.g., 25 ml of
0.1 M) of glucose solution in the syringe. Inject the sugar water into the yeast
solution and collect the carbon dioxide given off in the syringe.
(ii) Since it is difficult to accurately measure the amount of gas given off by
the method described in (i) above, a further refinement is as follows:
Connect the free end of the vent
tube to a U-tube manometer (see
VIII/D1) . Fill the fermenting
bottle with yeast solution, and
add a measured amount of sugar
water. As carbon dioxide is
given off, continually raise
the syringe plunger so as to
keep the two columns of the
manometer equal height. Con-
tinue this until gas is no
longer evolved. When the gas
has stopped evolving, the
amount of gas trapped in the
syringe will be a very accurate
measure of the total amount of gas given off since use of the manometer insures
that pressure in the rest of the system is maintained at the original level.
Fermentation Tube and
Manometer Combination
-251-
D. MANOMETER
Dl. Manometer
(1) Stand
(2) "U" Tube
(3) Scale
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Stand
(2) "U" Tube
Qll I tems Required
1 Wood (A)
2 Wood (B)
2 Wood (C)
2
Glass Tubing (D)
(3) Scale
1 Rubber Tubing (E)
4 Fine Wire (F)
1 Graph Paper (G)
Dimensions
75 cm x 8 cm x 2 cm
30 cm x 4 cm x 2 cm
4 cm x 4 cm x 2 cm
60 cm long, 0.75 cm
outside diameter,
. 5 cm inside diameter
50 cm long, 0.7 cm
inside diameter
8 cm long
40 cm long, 2 cm wide
-252-
b. Construction
(1) Stand
Nail two pieces of wood (B)
together at right angles to
form the base of the stand.
Nail the sguare blocks (C)
under the upper board to pro-
vide stability. Finally, nail
the other board (A) into an
upright position on the base.
Drill four pairs of small holes
(0.2 cm in diameter) into the
upright in such a position that
each pair of holes will be in
line with the position of the
"U" tube when it is in place.
*0^. w-4-H
(2) "U" Tube
"T
60
-~> Glass
^ Tubes (D)
^
/^—- Rubber
Tube (E)
Wire
(F)
I"* - Stand (A
xgy
^* Glass Tube
Heat one of the pieces of glass
tubing (D) about 4 cm from one
end and bend it to a right (90°)
angle. Attach the rubber
tubing (E) to the end of each
piece of glass tubing (D) .
Fasten this "U" tube to the
stand upright (A) by passing the
fine wires (F) around the tubing,
through the holes in the upright,
and twisting the wires tight to
hold the tubes in place. Do
not fasten the straight tube
too tight in order to allow it
to slide up and down to adjust
the height of the indicator
liquid,
Top View
-253-
(3) Scale
Glue or tape a piece of graph
paper (G) between the two tubes
to serve as a scale. Suitable
scales can also be made by hand
with plain paper and a rule.
c. Notes
(i) Use the manometer to detect and measure changes in pressure. To do so, it
must be half filled with an indicator solution like colored water (use food co lor-
ing or ink) which serves as well as anything as an indicator. in normal usage, a
rubber tube is used to connect the manometer to a closed system in which the
pressure is changing (e.g., a jar containing a yeast-sugar solution or a jar con-
taining a respiring animal with KOH to absorb the COn given off. With the yeast
solution, pressure in the jar will increase as the yeast oxidize the sugar. See
VIII/C3 for further detail. In the case of the respiring animal, pressure will
decrease as it takes up 0« and gives up COp which is taken up by the KOH.) . As
pressure changes, the indicator solution wi 11 move up or down depending on the
direction of the pressure change.
(ii) A detailed, specific example of the use of the manometer is as follows:
Drill a hole in the bottom of a plastic medicine vial. This hole needs to
be large enough to insert a short piece of glass tubing (5 cm long) . Attach a
piece of rubber tubing (100 cm) to the glass tube, and insert the glass tube into
the hole in the bottom of the vial. Seal the joint with melted wax from a candle.
Stretch a rubber membrane or piece of toy balloon over the open end of the vial
and fasten it securely with a string or rubber band to hold the membrane on the
vial.
Vial
Rubber Tube
Wire
•Rubber
Membrane
Side View
Attach the end of the rubber tubing to the bent piece of glass tubing on the
manometer "U" tube. Slide the straight tube up or down to make the height of the
indicator solution the same in both tubes. Place the rubber membrane against the
carotid artery of the throat. A pulse can be seen by the rythmic rise and fall
of the indicator solution. (See illustration on next page.)
-254-
(iil) The manometer may be made from a single piece of glass tubiftg by bending it
in a flame to a 180° angle. While this eliminates the need for a rubber tube, it
also eliminates the possibility of adjusting the heights of the indicator solution.
(iv) Further instruction in the use of the manometer may be found in the
Nuffield O-Level Biology, Teacher ' s Guide I U p 34 , and the BSCS Blue Version
text, p L8, L95, among other sources.
-255-
E. CHROMATOGRAPHY APPARATUS
El. Chromatographic Device
!1) Test Tube
w
(2) Paper Hoi der
(3) Paper
Solvent
a. Materials Required
Components
(1) Test Tube
(2) Paper Holder
(3) Paper
(4) Solvent
b. Construction
(1) Test Tube
(2) Paper Holder
Qu Items Required
1 Test Tube (A)
1 1-Hole Stopper (
1 Paper Clip (C)
1 Filter Paper (D)
Acetone (E)
Petroleum Ether (F)
Dimensions
15 cm long, 2 cm
diameter
To fit test tube
1 or 2 cm shorter
than the length of
the test tube
2 ml
23 ml
Use a rack or holder to support
the test tube (A) .
Open up the paper clip (C) and
cut it as shown. A short piece
of wire can be bent to the same
shape, too. Punch the U-shaped
piece of clip or wire through
one end of the paper (D) and
force the ends of the wire up
-256-
(3) Paper
Solvent
into the one-hole stopper (B)
until it is held fast.
Use standard filter paper (D) or
chromatography paper if it is
available. Cut it about 1 . cm
wide .
Mix the acetone (E) and petro-
leum ether (F) and add the
mixture to the test tube.
c. Notes
(i) This chromatographic device is used to separate plant pigments. To prepare
the sample of pigments, grind several heavily pigmented plant leaves together with
some fine sand and about 5 ml of acetone. When thoroughly ground, filter this
mixture through filter paper. Alternatively, heat several finely chopped leaves
in about 5 - 10 ml of alcohol in a water bath. Do not heat the alcohol directly.
Heat this mixture until the liquid is dark green.
Avoid both touching the surface of the paper with the fingers (oil affects
the results) and having the paper touch the table where the pigment's to be placed.
Thus, support the paper strip between two pencils or other small objects. About
1 cm from one end of the paper, place a small drop of pigment. This is most
easily done with a fine-pointed pipette or a hypodermic syringe. When the first
drop is dry, add another. Try to make the spot as small and as densely colored
as possible. At least four drops should be placed one atop the other.
Make a notch in the paper on each side of the spot to mark its position.
Attach the paper to the wire and put the wire into the stopper. Insert the paper
holder in the test tube so that the end of the paper is in the solvent with the
spot about . 5 cm above the level of the liquid. It may be necessary to adjust
the paper holder to keep the
Pigment Bands
H
Original Spot of Pigment
Finished Chromatogram
paper at the proper level. When
the upper level of the solvent
has soaked into the paper almost
to the paper holder wire, re-
move the chromatogram and allow
it to dry. The bands of color
can be studied when the chroma-
togram is thoroughly dry. A
number of excellent references
exist describing additional
exercises and information for
chromatography .
-257-
I X. MULTIPURPOSE SYRINGES
Disposable plastic syringes afford a variety of uses in biological studies. A
£w of these will be given in this section. Additionally, syringes can be used as
pipettes, burettes, etc., and for many of the functions normally taken by test tubes.
They are potentially one of the most useful items in the laboratory. All syringes in
this chapter are to be used without their needles. The categories given below have
been arrived at according to the function of the syringe within the system.
Readers with special interest in disposable syringes are referred to Paul D.
Merrick, Experiments with Plastic Syringes, and two articles by Andrew Farmer in the
School Science Review .
A. INJECTION AND EXTRACTION SYSTEM S
In these devices, disposable syringes are used for accurately injecting or extract-
ing precise amounts of materials into or out of closed systems.
B. COLLECTION APPARATU S
Here, syringes are used to collect gases in measurable quantities.
C. REACTION CHAMBER
In tteidevice, the syringe itself is used as the container for the reactions.
P. RESPIROMETERS
Two versions of respirometers fashioned from plastic syringes are given.
-267-
B2 . Seedling Gas Collection Device
O
Gyp
(1) Syringe
a. Materials Reguired
Components
(1 ) Syringe
b. Construction
(1) Syringe
Qll I tems Required
1 Syringe (A)
1 Beaker (B)
1 Rubber Tubing (C)
10
Day-old Bean Seedlings (D)
Dimensions
35-50 cc
50-100 ml
5 cm long, 0.4 cm
diameter
Fasten the rubber tubing (C) to
the nozzle of the syringe (A)
and place the bean seedlings
(D) in the barrel of the syringe.
Next, fill the beaker (B) with
water and put the end of the
tubing in the water to prevent
gas from escaping from the
syringe .
-268-
C. Notes
(i) Day-old bean seedlings carry on only respiration. Thus, the gas collected
in the syringe after a period of six hours will be primarily carbon dioxide (C0„),
This can be shown by injecting the collected gas into a solution of limewater in
which a white precipitate will be found. No reaction will occur if normal air is
injected into the limewater. This same experiment can be done using insects.
-277-
BIBLIOGRAPHY
A number of texts have proved to be extremely valuable references to the
Inexpensive Science Teaching Equipment Project, and these are listed below.
American Peace Corps, Science Teachers Handbook,
(Hyderabad, India: American Peace Corps, 1968) .
This handbook contains many ideas for improvising
science teaching equipment.
Association for Science Education, The School Science
Review, (London: John Murray) .
A quarterly journal containing articles on
science experiments and equipment in all the
sciences at all school levels.
Association for Science Education, The Science Master's
Book , (London: John Murray) .
Part 2 of Series 1 and 2, and Part 3 of Series 3
and 4 of The Science Master's Book c ontain articles
from The School Science Review d ealing with
experiments and equipment in biology.
Knudsen, Jens W., Biological Techniques, (New York: Harper
and Row, 1966) .
An excellent reference for those persons interested
in collecting, preserving, and illustrating animals
and plants .
Merrick, Paul 0., Experiments with Plastic Syringes,
(San Leandro, California: Educational Science Consultants, 1968).
This book and accompanying materials form a
good basis for developing curriculum materials
based on disposable plastic syringes.
Morholt, Evelyn, Paul F. Brandwein, and Alexander Joseph,
A Sourcebook for the Biological Sciences, (New York: Harcourt
Brace, and World, 1966) .
This book gives many ideas and methods concerned
with the day-to-day teaching of biology.
The UNESCO Sourcebook in Science Teaching, (Paris, France:
UNESCO, 1972) .
This book, recently revised, contains many simple
ideas for teaching science at a relatively
elementary level.
-278-
In addition to the above texts, the materials from a large number of projects
in the files of the International Clearinghouse on Science and Mathematics Curricular
Developments at the University of Maryland have also been particularly valuable.
Further details of these projects, and the three listed below, may be found in:
The Seventh Report of the International Clearinghouse on
Science and Mathematics Curricular Developments 1970, (College
Park, Maryland: University of Maryland, 1970) .
This is a source of information on curriculum
projects throughout the world including
project director, materials available, publishers,
etc. The Eighth Report will be available in late
1972.
Biological Sciences Curriculum Study (BSCS).
This is the major United States project concerned
with the biological sciences at the secondary
level. One publication, Innovations in Equip-
ment and Techniques in the Biology Teaching Laboratory,
(Boston: D. C. Heath, 1964) is especially useful
to those interested in equipment development.
FUNBEC, Science Education Projects for Primary, High School
and College Level .
A Brazilian project, FUNBEC has developed an
excellent series of inexpensive science kits
including some dealing with biology.
Nuffield Foundation, Nuffield Biology.
The Nuffield projects are the major British
curriculum pro jects in science. Expecially
interesting to the secondary biology teacher
and administrator are the "O-level" and
"A-level" material.
-279-
ALPHABETICAL INDEX
Air Composition Device
Alcohol Burner, Modified
Alcohol Burner, Simple
Ammeter, Hot Wire
Ammeters (See Galvanometers)
Anesthetizing Chamber
Aperture/Slit Combination
Aquarium, Breeding
Aquarium, Jug or Carboy
Aquarium, Plastic Bag
Aquarium, Quickly Made Demonstration
Aspirator
Aspirator
Baermann Funnel
Balance, Compression Spring
Balance, Current
Balance, Equal Arm
Balance, Extending Spring
Balance, Micro-
Balance, Pegboard
Balance, Rubber Band
Balance, Simple Beam
Balance, Single Pan
Balance, Soda Straw
Balance, Spring
Balance, Spring Lever
Ball -and- stick Models
Basket Sieve
Bath, Sand
Bath, Water or Steam
Battery, Simple
Beaker
Beating Sheet
Beehive Shelf
Bell Jar
Berlese Funnel
Bi-metal Strip
Page
CHEM/266
CHEM/40
CHEM/38
PHYS/255
BIOL/261
PHYS/113
BIOL/147
BIOL/146
BIOL/148
BIOL/145
BIOL/103
CHEM/117
BIOL/114
PHYS/12
PHYS/261
PHYS/24
PHYS/9
PHYS/22
PHYS/17
PHYS/5
PHYS/8
PHYS/32
PHYS/20
PHYS/36
PHYS/2
CHEM/193
CHEM/127
CHEM/188
CHEM/189
PHYS/185
CHEM/109
BIOL/101
CHEM/173
CHEM/111
BIOL/117
CHEM/59
-280-
Bird Trap, Potter
Blowpipe for Charcoal Block
Bottle, Specific Gravity
Bottle, Wash
Bottom Sampler
Box Trap, Simple
Bulb Holder with Bulb
Burette
Burette and Ring Stand with Attachments
Burner, Candle
Burner, Charcoal
Burner, Fuel System for GdS-
Burner, Gas
Burner, Modified Alcohol-
Burner, Simple Alcohol-
Butterfly Net
Cage, Ant Observation
Cage, Cockroach
Cage, Cylinder
Cage, Glass
Cage, Glass Jar
Cage, Housefly
Cage, Jar
Cage, Wire
Cage, Wooden Frame
Candle Burner
Carbon Dioxide Production Chamber
Cart, Elementary
Cart, Heavyweight
Cart, Lightweight
Cell, Chemical
Cells, Dry Cell Holder with
Centrifuge
Centrifuge, Hand Drill
Chamber, Transfer
Charcoal Burner
Charles' Law: Volume/Temperature Device
Chemical Cell
Chromatographic Device
Chromatography Apparatus, Liguid-Column
BIOL/126
CHEM/191
CHEM/69
CHEM/114
BIOL/82
BIOL/119
PHYS/191
CHEM/61
CHEM/90
CHEM/35
CHEM/36
CHEM/43
CHEM/49
CHEM/40
CHEM/38
BIOL/94
BIOL/173
BIOL/163
BIOL/167
BIOL/176
BIOL/159
BIOL/165
BIOL/169
BIOL/185
BIOL/180
CHEM/35
BIOL/269
PHYS/61
PHYS/75
PHYS/66
PHYS/177
PHYS/180
CHEM/153
CHEM/149
BIOL/226
CHEM/36
CHEM/252
PHYS/177
BIOL/255
CHEM/237
-281-
Chromatography Device, Horizontal Paper
Chromatography Device, Horizontal Paper
Chromatography Device Horizontal Paper
Chromatography Equipment, Vertical Paper
Chromatography Equipment, Vertical Paper Strip
Circuit Board
Clamp, Wooden Pinch
Clamp, Wooden Screw
Cleaner, Test Tube
Clock, Classroom
Clock, Water
Collapsible Heating Stand
Coil with Cores, Multipurpose
Composition of Air Device
Conductance Device
Conductance Device, Constant Volume
Condenser
Cone Sieve
Cover Slip, Glass Slide and
Crystalline Packing Models
Culture Flask
Current Balance
Decade Resistor
Deflagrating "Spoon"
Demonstration Thermometer
Dessicator
Diffraction Holes
Diffusion Chamber
Diffusion Device, Gas
Diffusion Device, Liquid
Dish, Petri
Dissecting Needles
Dissecting Pan
Distillation Apparatus, Condenser
Distillation Apparatus, Simple
Double Bond Structures
Dredge
Dropper
Dropper
Dropper /Pipette
CHEM/224
CHEM/226
CHEM/228
CHEM/230
CHEM/234
PHYS/195
CHEM/78
C HEM/ 80
CHEM/179
PHYS/52
PHYS/44
CHEM/88
PHYS/235
CHEM/266
CHEM/270
CHEM/273
CHEM/138
CHEM/126
BIOL/30
CHEM/217
BIOL/214
PHYS/261
PHYS/209
CHEM/177
CHEM/57
CHEM/181
PHYS/137
BIOL/258
CHEM/255
CHEM/254
CHEM/113
BIOL/39
BIOL/51
CHEM/138
CHEM/136
CHEM/207
BIOL/60
BIOL/49
CHEM/66
CHEM/242
-282-
Dry Cell Holder with Cells
Dryer, Electric Lamp
Drying Tower
Dynamo/Motor
Elasticity Device
Electrolysis Apparatus
Electroplating, Mirrors and
Enzymatic Reaction Chamber
Expansion Device, Gas
Fermentation Tube, Balloon
Fermentation Tube, Durham
Fermentation Tube, Syringe
Filter
Filter Flask, Suction-
Flame Test Wire
Flask Generator (Gas)
Flask, Light Bulb
Flask, Suction-Filter
Flasks, Volumetric
Forceps
Forceps
Fuel System for Burners, Gas
Funnel, Baermann
Funnel, Berlese
Funnel, Glass Bottle
Funnel, Separatory
Galvanometer, Elementary Moving Coil
Galvanometer, Elementary Tangent
Galvanometer, Moving Coil
Galvanometer, Repulsion Type
Galvanometer, Tangent
Galvanometer with Multipurpose Coils, Moving Coil
Galvanometer with Shunts, Moving Coil
Galvanometer with Shunts, Tangent
Gas Burner
Gas Burner, Fuel System for
Gas Collection Device, Plant
Gas Collection Device, Seedling
Gas Diffusion Device
PHYS/180
CHEM/185
CHEM/183
PHYS/217
PHYS/102
CHEM/145
PHYS/116
BIOL/263
PHYS/103
BIOL/247
BIOL/248
BIOL/249
PHYS/128
CHEM/129
CHEM/176
CHEM/165
CHEM/107
CHEM/129
CHEM/68
BIOL/48
CHEM/72
CH EM/43
BIOL/114
BIOL/117
CHEM/110
CHEM/132
PHYS/266
PHYS/246
PHYS/285
PHYS/249
PHYS/272
PHYS/292
PHYS/296
PHYS/276
CHEM/49
CHEM/43
BIOL/265
BIOL/267
CHEM/255
-283-
Gas Expansion Device
Gas Generator, Flask
Gas Generator, Kipp's
Gas Generator, Simple, and Collecting Apparatus
Gas Production and Collection Device
Gas Reaction Chamber
Gas Solubility Device/Reaction Rate Chamber
Gauze, Wire
Generator, Ml'crO-
Geometric Structures, Models
Glass, Measuring
Glass, Watch
Glassware, Light Bulb
Glassware Techniques and Accessories
Grappling Bar
Grappling Hook
Growth Chamber, Plant
Heating Shelf
Heating Stand, Collapsible
Holder, Multi-purpose Design
Holder, Test Tube
Hydraulic Press
Hydrometer
Incubator, Egg
Incubator, Microorganism
Indicator, Displacement Type Oxidation
Indicator, Membrane Type Oxidation
Indicator, Oxidation Rate
Inoculating Needles
Insect Collector, Night Flying
Insect Spreading Board
Interference Strips
Jar, Bell
Killing Jars
Kinetic Theory Model
Kipp ' s Generator
Kymograph
Lenses and Prisms, Optical
Lens with Holder
PHYS/103
CHEM/165
CHEM/167
CHEM/163
CHEM/245
CHEM/268
CHEM/250
CHEM/82
CHEM/249
CHEM/215
CHEM/64
CHEM/112
CHEM/109
CHEM/1
BIOL/87
BIOL/85
BIOL/155
CHEM/83
CHEM/88
CHEM/73
CH EM/76
PHYS/96
PHYS/108
BIOL/200
BIOL/219
CHEM/260
CHEM/258
CHEM/262
BIOL/218
BIOL/105
BIOL/99
PHYS/138
CHEM/1 11
BIOL/96
CHEM/220
CHEM/167
BIOL/234
PHYS/121
PHYS/130
-284-
Light Bulb Glassware
Light Bulb Glassware, Rack for
Light Bulb Glassware, Stand for
Light Source
Liquid-Column Chromatographic Apparatus
Liquid Diffusion Device
Magnetic Field Apparatus
Magnetic Field Apparatus with Multipurpose Coils
Magnetizing Coil and Magnets
Magnets
Magnets, Magnetizing Coil and
Magnifier, Illuminated Hand
Magnifier, Water Filled
Magnifying Glass, Water Bulb
Manometer
Masses, Box of
Membrane-type Oxidation Indicator
Measuring Glass
Metal Sheet Shelf
Microbalance
Micro-generator
Microscope, Adjustable
Microscope, Glass Stage
Microscope, Hand-Held
Microscope, Match Box
Microtome, Hand
Mirrors and Electroplating
Model, Kinetic Thoery
Models, Ball-and-stick
Models, Crystalline Packing
Model Units, Molecular
Mortar and Pestle
Motor/Dynamo
Motor, Simple
Moving Coil Galvanometer
Moving Coil Galvanometer with Multipurpose Coils
Moving Coil Galvanometer with Shunts
Multipurpose Coil with Cores
Multipurpose Design Holder
Multipurpose Stand
CHEM/107
CHEM/100
CHEM/102
PHYS/111
CHEM/237
CHEM/254
PHYS/238
PHYS/241
PHYS/231
CHEM/125
PHYS/231
BIOL/7
BIOL/2
BIOL/3
BIOL/251
PHYS/30
CHEM/258
CHEM/64
CHEM/74
PHYS/22
CHEM/249
BIOL/24
BIOL/14
BIOL/19
BIOL/21
BIOL/35
PHYS/116
CHEM/220
CHEM/193
CHEM/217
CHEM/198
CHEM/120
PHYS/217
PHYS/212
PHYS/2185
PHYS/292
PHYS/296
PHYS/235
CHEM/73
CHEM/98
-285-
Needles, Inoculating
Net, Butterfly
Net, Dip
Net, Lift
Net, Plankton
Optical Screen with Holder
Optical Board and Accessories
Oxidation Indicator, Displacement Type
Oxidation Indicator, Membrane Type
Oxidation Rate Indicator
Pendulum, Simple
Pestle, Mortar and
Petri Dish
Pipette
Pipette /Dropper
Pipette, Transfer
Plankton Net
Plant Growth Chamber
Plant Press (Field Type)
Plant Press (Laboratory Type)
Press, Hydraulic
Prisms and Lenses, Optical
Pulse
Pump
Rack for Light Bulb Glassware
Rack, Bamboo Test Tube
Rack, Wooden Test Tube
Rate Indicator, Oxidation
Reaction Chamber, Gas
Reaction Rate Chamber/Gas Solubility Device
Rectifier, Silicon
Rectifier (2 Plate) , Sodium Carbonate
Refraction Model Apparatus
Relaxing Jar
Reptile Hook
Resistor (Carbon) , Variable
Resistor, Decade
Resistor (Nichrome) , Variable
Respirometer
BIOL/218
BIOL/94
BIOL/54
BIOL/71
BIOL/65
PHYS/124
PHYS/119
CHEM/260
CHEM/258
CHEM/262
PHYS/50
CHEM/120
CHEM/113
CHEM/67
CHEM/242
BIOL/224
BIOL/65
BIOL/155
BIOL/140
BIOL/142
PHYS/96
PHYS/121
PHYS/49
CHEM/243
CHEM/100
CHEM/103
CHEM/105
CHEM/262
CHEM/268
CHEM/250
PHYS/168
PHYS/162
PHYS/126
BIOL/98
BIOL/132
PHYS/202
PHYS/209
PHYS/204
BIOL/270
-286-
Respirometer
Ring and Burette Stand with Attachments
Ripple Tank
Ripple Tank Accessories
Sand Bath
Scalpel, Razor
Scalpel, Strapping
Scissors
Screen, Hand
Screen with Holder
Screw Clamp, Wooden
Seine, Two-Man
Separatory Funnel
Shelf, Beehive
Shelf, Heating
Shelf, Jar Cage
Shelf, Metal Sheet
Shunts, Tangent Galvanometer with
Shunts, Moving Coil Galvanometer with
Sieve, Basket
Sieve, Cone
Sieve, Soil Organism
Single Bond Structures
Slide and Cover Slip, Glass
Slit, Adjustable Single
Slit/Aperture Combination
Slits, Fixed Single and Double
Slits, Multiple
Snare
Soil Organism Sieve
Source, Light
Spatula
Spatula, Test Tube Cleaner or
Specific Gravity Bottle
Specific Gravity Device
"Spoon', Deflagrating
Spreading Board, Insect
Spring Balance
Spring Balance, Compression
Spring Balance, Extending
BIOL/273
CH EM/90
PHYS/81
PHYS/90
CHEM/188
BIOL/43
BIOL/41
BIOL/45
BIOL/ 56
PHYS/124
CHEM/80
BIOL/68
CHEM/132
CHEM/173
CHEM/83
BIOL/161
CHEM/174
PHYS/276
PHYS/296
CHEM/127
CHEM/126
BIOL/110
CHEM/203
BIOL/30
PHYS/136
PHYS/113
PHYS/134
PHYS/133
BIOL/ 130
BIOL/110
PHYS/111
CHEM/178
CHEM/179
BHEM/69
PHYS/107
CHEM/177
BIOL/99
PHYS/36
PHYS/12
PHYS/9
Stain Bottle
Staining Vessel
Stand, Collapsible Heating
Stand for Light Bulb Glassware
Stand, Multipurpose
Stand with Attachments, Ring and Burette
Steam or Water Bath
Sterilizer
stick Models, Ball-and-
Still, Water
Stoichiometry Device
Strapping Tripod
Strip, Bi-metal
Stroboscope
Structures, Double Bond
Structures, Geometric
Structures, Single Bond
Structures, Triple Bond
Suction-Filter Flask
Sun Dial
Switch
Tangent Galvanometer
Tangent Galvanometer, Elementary
Tangent Galvanometer with Shunts
Tank, Ripple
Techniques and Accessories, Glassware
Temperature/Volume Device: Charles' 1 Law
Terrarium, Glass
Terrarium, Simple
Test Tube Cleaner or Spatula
Test Tube Holder
Test Tube Rack, Bamboo
Test Tube Rack, Wooden
Test Wire, Flame
Thermometer, Demonstration
Thermostat
Timer, Ticker Tape
Tower, Drying
Transformer, Iron Wire Core
(6 volt output, 120 volt mains)
BIOL/33
BIOL/31
CHEM/88
CHEM/102
CHEM/98
CHEM/90
CHEM/189
BIOL/215
CHEM/193
CHEM/141
CHEM/263
CHEM/86
CHEM/59
PHYS/93
CHEM/207
CHEM/21 5
CHEM/203
CHEM/213
CHEM/129
PHYS/41
PHYS/193
PHYS/272
PHYS/246
PHYS/276
PHYS/81
CHEM/1
CHEM/252
BIOL/153
BIOL/151
CHEM/1 79
CHEM/76
CHEM/1 03
CHEM/1 05
CHEM/1 76
CHEM/57
BIOL/207
PHYS/56
CHEM/1 83
PHYS/140
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Transformer, Sheet Iron Core
(12 volt output, 120 volt mains)
Transformer, Variable Output
(120 volt mains)
Trap, Funnel
Trap, Piling
Trap, Potter Bird
Trap, Simple Box
Trap, Soil Insect
Triple Bond Structures
Tripod, Strapping
Tripod, Tin Can
Tripod, Wire
Tweezers
Units, Molecular Model
Vacuum Apparatus
Vasculum*
Vertical Paper Chromatography Equipment
Vertical Strip Paper Chromatography Equipment
Vivarium
Voltmeters (See Galvanometers)
Volume Determinator
Volume/Temperature Device: Charles' Law
Volumeter
Volumetric Flasks
Wash Bottle
Watch Glass
Water Glass
Water or Steam Bath
Water Still
Wing Tip
Wire Gauze
Wire Tripod
Wormery, Box
Wormery, Jar
PHYS/147
PHYS/153
BIOL/76
BIOL/73
BIOL/126
BIOL/119
BIOL/112
CHEM/213
CHEM/86
CHEM/84
CHEM/87
CHEM/72
CHEM/198
PHYS/99
BIOL/136
CHEM/230
CHEM/234
BIOL/191
PHYS/105
CHEM/252
BIOL/244
CHEM/68
CHEM/141
CHEM/112
BIOL/90
CHEM/189
CHEM/141
CHEM/54
CHEM/82
CHEM/87
BIOL/171
BIOL/168
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